Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 20 of 55 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hey guys,

Used to own a top spec comp orange SVT EAP and sold it years ago
found one for a good deal recently and bought it, but it doesn't run.

Seems to be an electrical issue, previous owner did all kinds of crazy
lighting, sound system upgrades, and maybe an alarm.

I really lucked out though, has tons of upgrades:
-baer brakes front rear
-borla exhaust
-color matched carbon hood
-H&R suspension
-vf mount rear
-oil cooler

inspection of fuse box under hood: blown 02 sensor fuse, blown sub
woofer fuse. Replaced both of them and nothing. Some of the dash
lights turn on and I hear a few electrical noises.

advice? maybe some pics of your battery area and fuses? so I can
decipher what to get rid of. theres lots of misc wires connected to
the battery.

thanks guys!
306347
306348
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Don't all jump in at once!

Update:
I had a stereo place remove the car alarm and return the sound
system wiring to stock as well. still showing dashes "-----" on
the odometer, no start, no click. Also, found another burned fuse
under the dash, fuse 62 for fogs and replaced it.

still no start or click
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
things ive checked
-PCM (and other) diodes
-all fuses (o2, sub woofer, and fog lights were bad)
-battery grounds
-got rid of all weird wiring and alarm inside the car
-PATS looks like its working cuz CEL is on and the
alarm light blinks (I read somewhere that these are
positive indicators)

I feel like whatever caused the fuses to blow could have
fried the PCM? my OBD reader can't connect with my car
so maybe the PCM is fried? DID I MENTION THAT THERE
WAS STANDING WATER IN THE SPARE TIRE COMPARTMENT?!?
maybe water fried something? I found a couple loose wires
in the trunk that were oxidized like they'd grounded and sparked
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
The fuses should have protected the computer but standing water doesn't sound pleasant. Have you checked resistance of any of the wires? It could be possible there is still an active short somewhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The fuses should have protected the computer but standing water doesn't sound pleasant. Have you checked resistance of any of the wires? It could be possible there is still an active short somewhere.
I have not, I know a little about electrical but am learning very quickly from hours of reading threads on here. Ive had a lot of progress eliminating variables with my multi-meter and from information on here. My next thought is to replace the PCM since pats isn't communicating with it and could be triggering a no start. They're available with mated keys on ebay for 200$

where should I test resistance and what are the base line values in ohms?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Wait is the PATS system currently active? Why do you think the system isn't communicating?

As for the wires I'd suggest testing resistance on the burnt wires I don't think any wires in the back would prevent it from starting but it could have fried something. I'm going to guess the sub fuse took the brunt of it. Ohm values depend on gauge and length of wire, but in my experience usually if there's something shorting it is pretty obvious.

The very next thing I would do would be to see if someone else's OBD2 could communicate... that seems pretty odd and leads itself toward the idea that there is a bigger issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Wait is the PATS system currently active? Why do you think the system isn't communicating?

As for the wires I'd suggest testing resistance on the burnt wires I don't think any wires in the back would prevent it from starting but it could have fried something. I'm going to guess the sub fuse took the brunt of it. Ohm values depend on gauge and length of wire, but in my experience usually if there's something shorting it is pretty obvious.

The very next thing I would do would be to see if someone else's OBD2 could communicate... that seems pretty odd and leads itself toward the idea that there is a bigger issue.
thanks for the replies!

based on my understanding of PATS from reading numerable articles on here...
my PATS is working because my CEL and alarm light are blinking (which i read
is an indicator that its working) BUT if it cant communicate with the PCM then
it will trigger a "------" no start, car wont even crank and starter is getting 12V

AND my OBD reader wont connect to the PCM, it just says "connection error"
im certain that the reader is good, its brand new and i never use it.

So, this leads me to thinking the PCM is bad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
BIG UPDATE!!

this car definitely had water inside of it, there is the faintest hint of mold under the
floor mats, leading me to suspect the presence of water elsewhere in the car
besides the trunk area.

HERES WHAT I THINK HAPPENED: the broken sun-roof leaked water into the car, and
came into contact with the sound system first (which blew the aforementioned
fuses) since the ECU is low to the ground near one of the door pillars, it got fried
also which is why its not communicating with PATS. I pulled it out and it looks ok, is
there any way to test if its bad or getting power?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
There’s ways to check if power is getting to it by using multimeter to the correct pin on unit. I haven’t ever done it but I’m sure there’s tons of videos online. As to test if it’s functioning, I’m not sure, it obviously sounds like there is some issue. If you could get an OBD2 to read it you could do a functioning test, but that’s not available.
Also I pmd back about the sunroof and I’m open to offers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the advice!

If ANYONE out there can help me figure out what pin powers the ECU it would be massive help! If i can tellits getting power i can pull the trigger on a replacement with confidence rather than guessing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
updates:
-power to PCM confirmed
-continuity of pcm pins OK
-relay continuity tested, as well as terminal voltage

getting to the end of my rope here.... :cautious:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
updates:
-power to PCM confirmed
-continuity of pcm pins OK
-relay continuity tested, as well as terminal voltage

getting to the end of my rope here.... :cautious:
Damn, I'm surprised no one else has jumped in here to put in there 2 cent here....

Have you gone through both fuse boxes or just one?

This kinda sounds like when my truck wouldn't start and the ignition fuse was bad but not burnt. Sometimes I've had luck replacing fuses that were just plain old. Maybe just for shits switch out the ingestion related ones even if they aren't burnt and give it a shot?
 

·
Registered
2006 ZX5 2.0, 2004 ZX3 SVT EE. 2004 ZX3 SVT
Joined
·
1,491 Posts
Damn, I'm surprised no one else has jumped in here to put in there 2 cent here....

Have you gone through both fuse boxes or just one?

This kinda sounds like when my truck wouldn't start and the ignition fuse was bad but not burnt. Sometimes I've had luck replacing fuses that were just plain old. Maybe just for shits switch out the ingestion related ones even if they aren't burnt and give it a shot?
Yes. Fuses are aluminum, which can oxidize with age. Good practice to replace all of them if over 10 years old.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
thanks for all the help guys

i checked both fuse boxes. I think pbfoot is right, fuses are cheap, i should replace them all for the heck of it.

i also found a mechanic on "just answer.com" who sent me some very detailed wiring diagrams (which ill post later) only cost me 5$ to answer my questions!

if that doesnt work im gonna tap out, i found a local mechanic who comes highly recommended, ill keep you guys posted on a solution and maybe ill change the name of this thread so future FFers can find help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
As far as any wiring issues, check the wiring on the hatch where it goes between the hatch and the body, those have a tendency to break and short together. The leak in the hatch area could be from water getting in behind the tail lights, or I have even seen the factory seam sealer cracked and it can run down in that way. I would start tracing ground connections around the dash area and in the engine bay, clean them up and reattach them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
As far as any wiring issues, check the wiring on the hatch where it goes between the hatch and the body, those have a tendency to break and short together. The leak in the hatch area could be from water getting in behind the tail lights, or I have even seen the factory seam sealer cracked and it can run down in that way. I would start tracing ground connections around the dash area and in the engine bay, clean them up and reattach them.
good call checking the tail lights, didnt know they could leak. The previous owner DID change them also, to euro spec. maybe he botched the job. there was about 2 inches of standing water in the spare tire compartment. the floor has light amounts of mold so its definitley getting wet as well.

just hoping it runs good once it actually starts, or this may be a parts car for sale...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
I had a no start issue a couple days ago I’ve got a turbo kit on mine and have to datalog and tune it. My issue was fuse 61 which controls the pats module (when you load a tune with the xcal3 you remove fuse 46 and 61) it wore out enough and wasn’t making good contact replaced it with a new one and started right up. Looks like it came with some nice extra goodies on it that’s always nice congrats and good luck! Also have you checked the alternator pigtail those sometimes have issues and I think it was mentioned before but the wiring that goes into the hatch is prone to cracking and breaking leaving bare wires and causing issues (not sure if it would cause a no start though)
 

·
FF Affiliate
Joined
·
30,866 Posts
On top of the above , there are 2 black fuses under hood fuse box , there not fuses tho did you check them , Clutch safety switch will also keep it from cranking

Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
tried fuse 46 and 61, no result

checked the alternator connections, theyre good

DID find some breaks in the wiring on the hatch but they were not arcing off eachother or the car, wrapped them in electrical tape.

I have an appointment monday with a very reputable auto shop, im done messing with this thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
On top of the above , there are 2 black fuses under hood fuse box , there not fuses tho did you check them , Clutch safety switch will also keep it from cranking

Tom
thanks tom, if i get this thing running, youll be hearing from me about a tune
 
1 - 20 of 55 Posts
Top