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In another thread this was mentioned and it has bothered me:
The doors bottom metal is only pressed flat and sealed flush to door at ends. the rest is just a 'u' curve. Ready to hold road salt and water,, waiting to rust out five years down the road.

I want to seal this area NOW, before the first Winter.
Mulling over ways to do so.
First, whatever is used has to be fluid enough to penetrate down into the crack.
Then it has to be impervious to whatever is thrown at it for 10 years or more.
And not itself get weathered and crack
It has to dry with no cracks, and be very pliable.

So far my ideas include a can (not a spray can!) of clearcoat.. just drip it into the crack.
Bee's wax, melt it and pout into crack.
50 year caulk the vineguar smelling sort. clear. But really hard to get fully into crack.
Car wax. justdump liquid car wax into the crack.. well it's easy..

IMO in five to seven years ALL the 2012 Focu in the North are going to have horrible rust problems on the door bottoms from this flaw.

Anyway, worst comes to worst, I will use a can of spray clear coat, with the area around crack taped off and just make a big mess, but then be able to pull tape off
I think if I can find a half pint of real clear coat.. that is what i will do.
Or the bee's wax. melt it and get it in there?
 

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You could try J.P. Weigle 'Frame Saver'. It is made for steal Bicycles to protect from rust. It is a wax like spray. It turns into a brown gummy substance after it dries and won't turn hard. Works great for things like seams. I had my car Zebarted and the doors and hatch were part of the spry process. I think I will still use the Frame Saver on the doors to be sure of coverage. It will NOT hurt the paint at all. You can find it at bike shops or order it on line.
 

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Use RVT silicone. I have used this stuff before on my truck for a water leak and it has held out the water for 5 years now. You can get it in clear, and if you put it on thin enough you will probally never notice it is there. Plus you can force it down into the crack and really seal it up. It is flexible and will not crack. This is what I'm going to use. Just go to any auto parts store and look for Permatex RVT silicone. You can also get it in some colors to maybe match your car. Its great stuff. Here is a link to it. http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...matex_Clear_RTV_Silicone_Adhesive_Sealant.htm
 

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Use RVT silicone. I have used this stuff before on my truck for a water leak and it has held out the water for 5 years now. You can get it in clear, and if you put it on thin enough you will probally never notice it is there. Plus you can force it down into the crack and really seal it up. It is flexible and will not crack. This is what I'm going to use. Just go to any auto parts store and look for Permatex RVT silicone. You can also get it in some colors to maybe match your car. Its great stuff. Here is a link to it. http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...matex_Clear_RTV_Silicone_Adhesive_Sealant.htm
Be sure to NOT plug the drain holes though! If they are plugged water will set in the door and it WILL rust!
 

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You should be able to buy automotive rustproffing in a spray can.

Mine's sealed and rustproofed from Factory. Looks like Ford USA skimped on a few things to keep prices down.

Don't mean to hijack your thread but here is a few things that I've picked up by using this forum.

Standard On All German Built Models.
Door Sealing and Rustproofing (Whole Car is Rustproofed)
Factory Window Glass Legal Tints (All)
Steering Locks
Big Brake Disks Front and Rear (Dot4 Brake Fluid)
Engine Covers.
High Performance Tyres.
Metal Clutch Pedal (Well spaced)
Single Chrome Exhaust Endpiece.
High Quality Interior Cloth.
Instant Fuel consumption display.
Cruise control with LIM.


Don't ask me what I paid for it. (A lot more than US and no MFT or sync)
 

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I haven't noticed that water actually touches or makes it into that seam even after heavy rains. I keep my eye on it. Don't we have a 6 year rust warranty. Rust areas are pretty much engineered into cars so they can keep selling new ones.
Posted via FF Mobile
 

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I haven't noticed that water actually touches or makes it into that seam even after heavy rains. I keep my eye on it. Don't we have a 6 year rust warranty. Rust areas are pretty much engineered into cars so they can keep selling new ones.
Posted via FF Mobile
Rust Prevention is better than rust cure.
Rust cure requires respraying etc etc.
Elizabeth, If you feel that the rust prevention is not adequate, why not ask the dealer to look at it for you. Maybe they will do it for free.
 

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I've opened my door and watched water run out the corner seam. I will probably do the clear calking of the outer seam fold but stay clear of the drain holes and corner holes.
 

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I was concerned about this, what I thought "flaw" also. Someone I know who is on a Fusion forum said this is designed that way specifically for more drainage from the water coming in from the windows. With that said I'm not touching mine with any type of sealant. The most I would do is Maquires spray synthetic wax. I plan on spraying not copious amounts but enough for protection.
 

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Would plasti dip work to seal the area Elizabeth is talking about? It is available at Home Depot and is the stuff used to coat tool handles that are dipped into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
The area is the very bottom edge of the doors. The sheet metal is folded over, and usually it is pressed flat. well in the 2012 Focus the sheet metal is NOT pressed flat where folded. It is flat at the corners, but the rest is open, and has less than half a millimeter gap.
After having a narrow gap in the wall between the frame and door hinge area get rusted on my last Ford after eight or none years, i do not want this area to have issues down the line. As the door bottoms catch Hell anyway.
The problem is over time the area in the opening would get filled with dirt, salt and water, and stay there.. eating away at the finish, and then the metal year in, year out.
I guarantee in eight to ten years all the 2012 Focus in Nothern salted street clims will have rotted out rusted door bottoms. (at least any not cared for.

So IMO better to find a way to keep any foreign crap OUT of the crease

Certain cars get various rusted out areas due to whatever flaws in the design due to imperfect rustproofing, or areas where salt spray and dirt and water can stay packed in year round. Up underside of fender wells, trunk lids.. whatever.
 

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I'm actually not going to seal this the lower lip on my '12 Focus doors. I have an '06 Fusion that has the identical simple open "roll" instead of a seal, and it is now entering its sixth winter here in the salt belt of the rust belt. I, also, was a very great skeptic of this "roll" when I bought the Fusion, but I decided to just monitor how it would perform. The lower "rolled, not sealed" lips of all four of the Fusion's doors are still free of rust. Note that in one of the Fusion's doors, the window regulator rusted so badly due to salt intrusion from the window seal that it had to be replaced, but the bottom of that door (which I inspected from the inside) remains rust-free. This is a better outcome than what is happening to the doors on my '01 Focus and '02 Taurus, both of which have the traditional sealed seam with only drain holes.

I think the jury is still out, but early (six years) indication is that this is an improvement over the sealed lip. Note that I have a dirt driveway so there is plenty of "crud" that gets thrown at the door. When I get to the ten-year mark I'll know for sure.
 

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I'm actually not going to seal this the lower lip on my '12 Focus doors. I have an '06 Fusion that has the identical simple open "roll" instead of a seal, and it is now entering its sixth winter here in the salt belt of the rust belt. I, also, was a very great skeptic of this "roll" when I bought the Fusion, but I decided to just monitor how it would perform. The lower "rolled, not sealed" lips of all four of the Fusion's doors are still free of rust. Note that in one of the Fusion's doors, the window regulator rusted so badly due to salt intrusion from the window seal that it had to be replaced, but the bottom of that door (which I inspected from the inside) remains rust-free. This is a better outcome than what is happening to the doors on my '01 Focus and '02 Taurus, both of which have the traditional sealed seam with only drain holes.

I think the jury is still out, but early (six years) indication is that this is an improvement over the sealed lip. Note that I have a dirt driveway so there is plenty of "crud" that gets thrown at the door. When I get to the ten-year mark I'll know for sure.[/QUOTE

Well I feel better about the fold now, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah.. thanks for the heads up on the folds.
Great. i will not worry so much, but i will do my best to keep them free of dirt.
I was a little worried about sealing them, then finding out that is worse. and not being able to unseal them..
Thanks for the help.
 

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You could try J.P. Weigle 'Frame Saver'. It is made for steal Bicycles to protect from rust. It is a wax like spray. It turns into a brown gummy substance after it dries and won't turn hard. Works great for things like seams. I had my car Zebarted and the doors and hatch were part of the spry process. I think I will still use the Frame Saver on the doors to be sure of coverage. It will NOT hurt the paint at all. You can find it at bike shops or order it on line.
I like this idea... Waxy / non-hardening material, which hopefully does not attract too much dirt / crud -- often is "self-healing" and creeps. I suspect you would want it to creep into the door (but of course, leave the door cavity drains free). They used aluminized waxes as sprays and treatment inside of the door, to excluse moisture and rust at the bottom of the doors.. (on the inside).
 

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At the least just push the dirt/grime out with compressed air or a quick shot of water (careful of course not to get it all over the interior/door panel) every so often and it should be golden.
 

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Hi, shouldn't you be asking why you would have to perform frequent remedial work to prevent rusting when our cars over here have the job done correctly in the first place? If I saw that on my car I'd be taking it back...
Chris
 
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