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Discussion Starter #1
around how much will it be?

01 2.0 DOHC stick shift.

EDIT: to get it fixed
i dont trust my self to do it. LOL
 

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C2H5OH
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IIRC book time is about 9 hours and I believe average shop pay is around $80/hr, so you might be looking at around $500 to $1,000 depending on what all needs to be done. Yes it can be done cheaper, but book time is book time.

Kinda makes doing it yourself look a lot better don't it :D
 

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See fixing the head gasket isnt hard at all....Its the timing crap that sucks.

Any moron that can swing a wrench can take the head off, clean things up and put it back together again. Its the retiming of the motor and timing components i dont like.

To make your life easier maybe you want to do the headgasket your self and then pay someone to do the timing belt/tensioner and water pump.
 

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Token Engin-nerd
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wait, 9 hours!?

I can do a headgasket in 3 or 4 tops...

all you need are the timing tools and its easy as pie.
 

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Aurelius Pardus
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there's the possibility that the head has warped though, too, isn't there?

(Lol BTW, illinipo, is it you that has the CX-7? I can't remember. LOL)
 

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Token Engin-nerd
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yeah, no.... as you can see from my sig i am a bit of an anti-SUV. My car has more cargo room than a cx-7, gets a whole lot better mpg, and goes faster in a straight line... not to mention it can turn fast. really fast.


yes you run the risk of dropping a warped head on your brand new gasket and having it blow again. But you could just take it to a machine shop to have it checked.
 

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All Data time is 6.8 hrs.....and retiming these engines is NOT the time consuming part of this job. You line up a couple of camshafts, place a metal bar in the grooves of the rear of the cams to hold them in place, install the belt, tighten the tensioner and you're done.
 

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any moron can swing a wrench and take a head off eh? actually the timing part is the easier of the 2! head gasket is much more involved than the timing..

if done properly, you should take the head to a machine shop and have the deck checked for warps or cracks. then you must ensure proper torque on the head bolts or you will be doing the HG again real soon!
 

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help! SVT! EMERGENCY!!! MY INTAKE HEADS AND OR MANIFOLD BLEW FROM THERE RUBBER HOSE CONNECTIONS TO THE ENGINE IT WAS A CLEAN BLOW AND NO MAJOR DAMAGE FROM WHAT I CAN SEE, NEED HELP WAT DO I DO?
 

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Token Engin-nerd
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help! SVT! EMERGENCY!!! MY INTAKE HEADS AND OR MANIFOLD BLEW FROM THERE RUBBER HOSE CONNECTIONS TO THE ENGINE IT WAS A CLEAN BLOW AND NO MAJOR DAMAGE FROM WHAT I CAN SEE, NEED HELP WAT DO I DO?
order CFM's intake coupler kit

...but i cant find it on their website [scratch]
 

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help! SVT! EMERGENCY!!! MY INTAKE HEADS AND OR MANIFOLD BLEW FROM THERE RUBBER HOSE CONNECTIONS TO THE ENGINE IT WAS A CLEAN BLOW AND NO MAJOR DAMAGE FROM WHAT I CAN SEE, NEED HELP WAT DO I DO?
 

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Help major issue: Replaced the pcv valve hose.the battery light came on then white smoke came from every wheres only when i stepped on the gas hard. Can someone message me and tell me what the problem is?
 

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Token Engin-nerd
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Help major issue: Replaced the pcv valve hose.the battery light came on then white smoke came from every wheres only when i stepped on the gas hard. Can someone message me and tell me what the problem is?
Un-do the negative battery cable for 30 mins. I would guess your long term trims are way off because of the vac leak.
 

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Help major issue: Replaced the pcv valve hose.the battery light came on then white smoke came from every wheres only when i stepped on the gas hard. Can someone message me and tell me what the problem is?
Such drama. I fixed an SVT that had this problem at the last Focus Fest. It took us about 30 mins, but most of that was me convincing the car's owner that pulling the injectors was not a big deal.

Remove the bolts that hold the fuel rail, then grasp and turn the fuel injectors so the O-rings will release. It might take some wiggling as well. Pull the injectors and fuel rail as a single part and move off to the side so you can gain easier access to the clamps on the intake tubes. Then make sure that the clamps on the intake tubes are loose and positioned to allow for easy access to the screws once installed. Push each on individually and check to be sure it is completely connected by using your hand to feel underneath. Once all the intake tubes are seated, tighten the clamps to hold it in place, then push the injectors back into the bosses, and tighten and install the bolts that hold down the fuel rail and injectors.

That will get you running, and later you can see about finding an aftermarket replacement.
 

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Token Engin-nerd
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Normal zetecs do not have the same manifold and intake tubes... so that will not work...
 

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any moron can swing a wrench and take a head off eh? actually the timing part is the easier of the 2! head gasket is much more involved than the timing..

if done properly, you should take the head to a machine shop and have the deck checked for warps or cracks. then you must ensure proper torque on the head bolts or you will be doing the HG again real soon!
Head gasket replacement requires new head bolts with these engines. If you do not replace the head bolts, then the head gasket will fail in short order. You must also flush the cooling system once the job is done to remove any contaminants, you'll need a scraper to remove the leftover gasket material from the engine block and head, you'll need an oil change, and timing cover gasket. You should consider a new timing belt and tensioner as well since you'll need to remove the timing cover anyway in order to get the head off. You should also consider a new water pump so that the engine won't overheat in the near future ruining your new head gasket.

It is highly possible that a head gasket set comes with a timing cover gasket for this application. Head bolts will be extra though. I'd also consider finding stainless steel bolts to replace the exhaust manifold bolts which are prone to rust. If none are available- SS metrics are hard to find- then you should replace the exhaust manifold bolts IMO if these are rusty. Those tend to rust more than other bolts, and will sometime break off on the second removal causing much pain and suffering.

A long metric tap appropriate for each thread pitch and bolt size is recommended- especially for the head bolt threads to clean the threads of debris before installing new bolts.

Did I forget anything?
 
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