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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
k, i have been working on a battery relocate for the SVT. i already took the space from the front with other items, so the battery WILL be going to the rear. I will be making a custom battery box from Lexan.
I have 1/0 welding cable running underneath the car from the hatch to a space near the starter.
I will have a 200a circuit breaker between the battery + and the starter. This is located withing 12" of the battery.
The 1/0 cable will be ran directly from the circuit breaker to the starter. without breaking the cable, it will be ran to the alternator. (although, there will be a 175a fuse inline here to mimic the OEM setup).
All Charging cables will be replaced with this 1/0 cable.
I HAVE AN OPTIMA REDTOP!!!

Now i have a question or 2.

I need a new alternator too cuz the old one gave up. Will a high output unit be needed to compensate for the extra distance between the alternator and the battery?
i only have a 250w amp in the car. nothing serious. but i MAY add something down the line. nothing larger than 1000w though.

can the positive lead that goes to the fuse block under the hood be directly bolted to the terminal on the starter? If not, i can install a d-block, but i really dont wanna.

i will be installing a remote + terminal under the hood. can this be connected to the starter as well?



please discuss. is there something wrong with this proposed setup?
i hope this thread be more knowledgable than other threads that just die off.
 

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id also like some info on this. I need to move my battery to the rear this coming summer.



.......how about all this damn SNOW!
 

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alternator upgrade isn't needed.
Don't run under the car run it through the car, protects the cable better
make sure to have the proper crimp tool set
I would forgo the lexan enclosure and get one of the encolosures from JCW or Summitt as they have some that are homoglated for racing and have proper venting of hydrogen.
have the 200 amp breaker 12 inches from the battery in the trunk, for safety reasons, go with 00 or better grounding wire for the battery and grounding the engine, and the original ground hookup in the engine bay. look for a set of remote jump connectors for the front of the car in case you can't get in the trunk. Connect amp straight to battery with a fuse or circuit breaker
I would get an optima yellow top or red top for the better power handling and also to prevent acid spills in the trunk... ask me how I know this
 

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What is the best way to vent? Even w/optima style it said you should vent properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
oh i forgot to add. i already have a redtop.

so no HiPo alternator. sweet!

i already have Summit remote battery terminals. they will be placed where the airbox used to be. where can i find a 1-5/16" drill bit for those terminals?

all battery boxes that arent pre-drilled for vent tubes or cables. i recently got a black summit box and it had no holes at all. it let you put the holes where you want. ill vent the box anyways. and i will still be going Lexan.

i didnt really want to run the cable beneath the car due to the size. it has a thick insulation on it....

again, the ENTIRE charging system will consist of the 1/0 welding cable. i got 25ft of it. that should be plenty.

any others? im still weary about the connections at the starter/fuseblock
 

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you won't want a 31/16's drill bit unless you have a spline driven hammer drill, your best bet is a hole saw
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i was going to use the existing holes that are in the airbox/tranny mount bracket. the holes that hold the rubber isolators are huge but just need opened up a little bit more. this is why i was looking at a bit. i do have a hammer drill. but i also thing that a bit that large will be stupid expensive for me only to use it once. ill prolly end up taking a dremel and enlarging those holes with that.

are the connections at the starter a good setup?
 

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it sounds to me like what you are doing is way way overly complicated. i relocated my battery close to if not over a year ago. all that i did was buy a marine battery box, 0 gauge power wire, new better battery terminals, optima red top (good choice btw [;)]), and a few wiring connectors. i drilled holes to bolt the box down in the hatch. mounted the box, put the battery in it, put on the new terminals and ran the ground to the post where the hatch latches. grounded it on one of i think 3 bolts. i ran the power wire thru the interior hiding it under carpet and trim (never found the damn firewall), out the door jam, behind the fender, into the engine bay, connected to the FACTORY battery terminal. i grounded the other factory terminal to part of the bracket that helt the factory battery box in the bay. i did it with the factory terminals up there so that if i had trouble i could just yank the 0 gauge power wire off and put a new battery up front and problem fixed. it reads .3 volts less at the battery than it does at the terminals in the engine bay with the car running if i remember right. i have no special fuses or breaker boxes and i have no problems with this setup for around a year now. just throwing that out there. sometimes the solution for a complicated problem is just a simpler question. i know i know that last bit was me trying to be a philosopher and i dont know if it quite makes sense or not. im sleepy and it makes sense to me now so im gonna leave it. good luck with the relocation!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It makes sense. But I am upgrading the extipd charging system. I'm sure my setup will work. I just want opinions. I'm not over complicating it, just doing it a very safe way. And super custom!
THanks though.
Posted via FF Mobile
 

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it sounds to me like what you are doing is way way overly complicated. i relocated my battery close to if not over a year ago. all that i did was buy a marine battery box, 0 gauge power wire, new better battery terminals, optima red top (good choice btw [;)]), and a few wiring connectors. i drilled holes to bolt the box down in the hatch. mounted the box, put the battery in it, put on the new terminals and ran the ground to the post where the hatch latches. grounded it on one of i think 3 bolts. i ran the power wire thru the interior hiding it under carpet and trim (never found the damn firewall), out the door jam, behind the fender, into the engine bay, connected to the FACTORY battery terminal. i grounded the other factory terminal to part of the bracket that helt the factory battery box in the bay. i did it with the factory terminals up there so that if i had trouble i could just yank the 0 gauge power wire off and put a new battery up front and problem fixed. it reads .3 volts less at the battery than it does at the terminals in the engine bay with the car running if i remember right. i have no special fuses or breaker boxes and i have no problems with this setup for around a year now. just throwing that out there. sometimes the solution for a complicated problem is just a simpler question. i know i know that last bit was me trying to be a philosopher and i dont know if it quite makes sense or not. im sleepy and it makes sense to me now so im gonna leave it. good luck with the relocation!

That's really all there is to it, but I'd highly suggest a fuse or breaker right off the battery like scrammer plans. Just for safety reasons.

Add a distribution box and it will clean everything up.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
a circuit breaker is a must. period. dont want to fry anything. i dont care if the OEM setup doesn have it.

im not wanting a Dblock. it will actually get the wiring a bit messy. if i can have all the connections i mentioned at the starter, it will be awesome! it will all be hidden beneath the intake manifold.
 

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U should run a separate line to the alt... with a kill switch for safety...

how we ran my friends 98 cobra:









I love his set up...

and for posts in the bay he had a great idea and used these:



My 95 mustang: i ran behind the dash pulled it and drilled the firewall...



I didnt want my wiring all over


Drawings will help.. hope this gave you some ideas... never had the need to move it in the Daily driver focus
 

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Discussion Starter #20
^^thanks Doug.

those threads are janky and really dont answer any of the questions i have.

all the "kits" have a cheezy box that i dont want.

why do i need 1 cable going to the alternator and 1 going to the starter? in the OEM setup as well as mine, the same cable will be connecting both.
 
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