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Discussion Starter #1
I need help, I'm an old fart who typically likes old performance cars from the 60's, who just purchased an 2007 ford focus ses sedan thinking it would get good gas mileage (34-39mpg/gallon hwy). Boy was I in for a surprise. Took the car on a 400 mile trip, pimped the car all the way there at 69mph, no stops, no a/c............33 mpg tops. That's not going to cut it. The car has 45k on it with I think the 2.0 motor (left the car there temporally). The vin is 1FAHP34NX7W156078. Please tell what kind of mods I can do, (cold air intake/filter, exhaust and/or performance chips) to the vehicle to improve the mpg. I don't care what comes out the tail pipe (Michigan resident) and if there are performance benfits, that's a plus too. Please name manufacturers and parts that are going to do the best job. Thank you
Bob Biggs
 

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exhaust, intake and a tune will help with mpg. also doing things to drop weight in the car. lighter wheels will make the most difference since its rotational mass.

as far as the other stuff im not sure on what the best for the d20. but generally make it breathe and you will get some mpg. but beaware that exhaust and intake you might gain 1-2mpg is it really worth $1000?
 

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Thats about right for a Focus SES with the A/C turned on while on the highway. That is what I get. I don't think 33 mpg at 70 mph with the air on in a non hybrid car with all the airbags and safety crap is too bad really.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the reply, as far as intake I should rephrase this "intake" as just the air cleaner and out (maybe cold air induction) not an intake manifold change and minor exhaust mods such as behind the cat mods or removal of one resonator. What do you mean "d2"? I'm sorry but I need an education on the ford 4cyl engine variances. I'm not opposed to more major changes such as a complete exhaust change (ie. borla) but I must realize a major gain to warant this kind of modification. I plan on keeping this car awhile.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I hope I can get help here. I'm not going to drive this little cracker box if that is all Ford can serve up on the mpgs, I'll dump it. My wife's sable can get 33 hwy, with a MUCH better ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I found this old post from this site by "whynotthinkwhynot" Can anyone exlplain this post to me............


Okee dokee, I've tried a lot of things myself so I can help you out.

CAI's: You will notice a slight increase in fuel economy by installing one of these. The most cost effective for a Duratec is the "Stealth CAI" however it's likely not to improve mileage as much as a manufactured CAI like the Gen2 from K&N- my favorite because it's plastic which reduces temp transfer from the engine compartment. There is a danger of hydrolocking the engine if you drive into puddles at high speeds or sink the bumper of the car below water.

SRI's: These are a hydrolock safe replacement for the stock air cleaner. The biggest problem with these is that they draw air from under the hood. In areas or times with high ambient temperatures, there will be a noticeable loss in fuel economy and power. However, in colder ambient temps, the SRI will increase the fuel economy.

Exhaust: Well this is the tiger with two tails. A little less exhaust restriction will increase power and fuel economy, but too little restriction, and you'll lose both. If all you're doing is a cat-back, then it's probably ok. Removing the 2nd cat will definitely cause you to lose fuel economy as the 2nd O2 sensor does not get heated up enough to do it's job. A flash tuner and a custom tune to bypass the 2nd O2 will help, but I haven't tried it myself.

Flash Tuner: These help out a good bit- especially with an automatic. You'll have to figure out what parameters that you can modify help your own vehicle get better mileage. On my 05 D20 I noticed that -2 ignition timing on the low range, then -1 on the mid range and no change on the high range helped my vehicle maintain low speeds in higher gears. I can shift into 5th at 40 which is under 2k without bogging the engine. An earlier PZEV has a taller diff ratio, so that might be too low for that diff.

Non-Plat Spark plugs: This can help by providing a hotter spark. It's not expensive, but don't throw away your stock platinums. I did not notice an increase with this alone.

Things to remember: Not all mileage increasing tricks are accumulative. You might get 3 mpg more by changing your spark plugs without doing anything else, then hardly any other change when you install a CAI.
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d20 is 2.0l duratec

i would look in the bst for a used intake (cai or a hybrid style)
removing a res from the exhaust won't do much but make it louder.

do you run synthetic oil? switching to synthetic can help your mpg.
same with maintenance stuff like fuel filter, ect and keeping everything cleaned and lubed.
check your tire pressure every week

in my 2.0l zetec 5 speed stock i got like 350km per tank.
ported tb
volant intake
SVT header
orp
Borla 2.5" cat back
massive 2pc udp
comp cams stage 1
tuned by tom
gutted hatch
light battery
light wheels
aluminium flywheel
Spec 6 puck clutch

im getting around 500-550km a tank now. but did put a decent amount of money into it. but i did go from like ~17 sec car to a 15 sec car w/ spinning all threw 1st gear. get me some traction and ill probably net high to mid 14's

all in all i find it was worth the like $2000-2500 i put in.

but weight will help a good amount with mpg.


not sure why this is in tom's forum, but he will chime in with what all he can do for you as far as a tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Mike thank you for the reply once again. FYI this whole "focus forum" is new to me about 3 hours ago. I picked this forum to post the gas milage question, is this the wrong place? I figured you guys are the pros on these cars, maybe this question is better suited somewhere else on this site. By the way my car is an automatic. Last question, seems like the '07 is an odd year for modifications, especially when I find aftermarket exhaust systems listed for every year but the '07. What's up?
 

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00-07 cat backs i believe are the same. difference being sedan, hatch or svt. (i think)


the forum should be in general chat, maybe even duratec performance. the mods will move it once they see it
 

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there have been alot of hit and miss success stories for hydrogen injection via electrolysis. i hit 42mpg on a trip a few years ago with a kit that i made, no tune, and a few mods. i cant remember what all i had done at the time except for the hydrogen kit. i ended up trashing that setup because it was in the way. the biggest fuel economy booster is the way you drive.
 

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ill go ahead and elaborate a little more on electrolysis. basically it makes hydrogen gas from water, electricity, and your choice of an electrolyte. hydrogen is flammable. it has been proven that a car engine can run off pure hydrogen with no modification required (on an old school carb engine anyway). the principle behind this is that you are adding more fuel to the mixture. the more hydrogen that goes into the engine for it to burn the less gasoline it has to add in to chase after that magical stoich mark. the ECU that ford uses learns and adapts fuel trims constantly. when the o2 sensor picks up that the engine is running rich due to the extra hydrogen fuel going in it pulls fuel to bring the mixture back to stoich. this is all hypothetical as far as im concerned but it makes sense and it worked for me. if you want to give it a try, do some homework on the subject and make one yourself. you need a glass jar with a lid, something made of stainless steel that you can hang in the jar that will have a massive amount of surface area in the water, rubber tubing to run from the jar to the intake AFTER the MAF sensor, and a little know how in wiring so you can run a on/off switch to the kit so you dont kill your battery. you may also want to run an in line air filter to keep water out of the intake in case you slosh it around going down the road.

WIKI is your friend

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolysis_of_water
 

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Wow! seems I struck gold and got "the man himself"..............okay, seeing I'm not that technically inclined (I like stuff you just remove and bolt on!) how about I pay you to build one for me! Sounds like a great idea.... send me the kit! All jokes aside, thanks but I really would need some help to do something like this. Sounds like a good idea for sure.
 

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how much room did this take up? any pics of your set up?

i might be interested in doing this if i can make it easy to remove from the track, but can use it driving around to save some $$$
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well Outlaw, seems you're my neighbor, how about lowering the car and have you done what you've suggested (gains acquired?). Seems you better use light weight material or any gain would be canceled by the added weight.
 

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i would assume it was made from sheet aluminum. since the purpose isn't as a skid plate so it being really strong isn't much of an issue
 

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I have an 08 SES, running 0W-20 sythetic oil and a K&N panel filter in the stock housing. I do keep my tires at 35 psi (door jamb sticker says 34) and use cruise control as much as traffic allows. I ran from Kitty Hawk NC to Atlanta GA and back in July this year (95+ degrees), with AC and at 75 mph and got just short of 35 mpg.
 

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Moved to Duratec Performance Chat.

You're getting typical mileage for that vehicle. Keep up on your routine maintenance- fuel filter, spark plugs, there are no wires, but you do have boots and springs that can be replaced at around 80k. The cost is $5-8 each, and you have 4.

Iridium plugs are a waste of money IMO, but do what you like. I prefer standard plugs for 2 reasons, one we have seen a small performance increase, and secondly they build up deposits. Those are an annoyance to some, but vital combustion chamber diagnosis tools to others. I get more from reading plug deposits than the stupid code reader.

I get 31 in my mixed driving to work with the AC on, and it's like 100+ here. That makes a difference as well. The best you can do is do some research on hydrogen systems. You can purchase these, but they are expensive. Most of the time the only difference between the DIY and those kits is a simple relay run off an ignition hot. During the winter, you'll want to add Heet or some other form of alcohol to prevent freezing. Calcium Carbonate is the least corrosive of the electrolytes. You can get a very clean version of it by purchasing packets of dry sinus rinse formula. You will lose some over time, and it goes through your engine. I have no word on what it does eventually. Some people use Baking Soda for an electrolyte, and I read about one guy who simply uses tap water. There are also what's called EFIE adapters that will trick your O2 sensor into reading rich to purposefully lean out the mix. Also, you can purchase pulse generators which maximize h202 output. Brown's Gas generators are the same thing as the hydrogen boosters.
 
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