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I bought my SVT a few years ago knowing that it had been wrecked and repaired. Just recently, I got an alignment done and found out that my front left has severe caster and camber problems.

Anyways, I was looking into getting a set of adjustable Caster/Camber plates for the front, and a Camber kit for the rear. I finally narrowed it down to 2 different sets, but I am wondering which one I should go with.

First, is from BAT (about half way down the page):
Set 1

Second is from K-Mac (near the bottom of the page):
Set 2
 

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The ones from BAT are sold under a variety of names. If you do a search you'll find a fair amount of negative opinion about them on the forums. Consensus seems to be they impose side loads on the struts causing rapid wear. Also adjusting the camber results in a change of castor (whether you want it or not).

The K-Mac ones seem to be good but expensive.

I use a different design of camber plate (that adjust up to 1 deg of camber) on my front suspension but they are the type that must be adjusted prior to fitting which sounds less ideal for your situation.
 

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I believe the ones from bat are SPC's... i ran them on my Orange car for a long time without any issues at all.
 

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I ran them on my car and they caused rubbing issues something fierce.
I should of stated this in my first post.
 

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C2H5OH
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Pretty clever Idea. My Jetta allowed camber to be set like, but not caster. I like it.
I was thinking about this and I actually change my mind. When accelerating or braking, your going to get a bending moment fore and aft causing that plate to fail if it isnt strong enough. If we are only looking at lateral forces, it should work fine since a part is strong in tension and compression. When you apply a moment, or bending force on a part, it is more likely to fail. Hopefully the parts have been made of a proper material and have been tested before putting it on a car. Cool idea, I just hope the mechanics of it works.
 

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FYI purchased the Goldcoast camber plates and am using them. Fair amount of work cutting up your LCAs but the most annoying part is having to make what I call "locking plates". I've not been able to tighten the bolts enough to prevent movement when cornering so I resorted to drilling and cutting flatbar to fit between one bolt on the LCA and one on the balljoint which effectively locks the "adjustable" camber plates. Not a big deal if you just want to set them and leave them but otherwise a PITA to remove my locking plates for an alignment and then fab up new ones all the while hoping that between the tire shop and my garage they won't move before I can fab new lock plates.
 

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C2H5OH
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Knurl the plates. Far simpler option and should work I'd think.
 

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For my '04 SVT, I purchased mine from C-F-M, and couldn't be more pleased. Got their camber plates for up front and camber bolt kit for the rear. Completely cured my tire wear problems. I had the Ford tech install them along with an alignment, and the tech was impressed. He said it made it much easier to get everything in alignment. And that was quite a few thousand miles ago.
 

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For my '04 SVT, I purchased mine from C-F-M, and couldn't be more pleased. Got their camber plates for up front and camber bolt kit for the rear. Completely cured my tire wear problems. I had the Ford tech install them along with an alignment, and the tech was impressed. He said it made it much easier to get everything in alignment. And that was quite a few thousand miles ago.
Great to know,,,,
 

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So mote be it
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FYI purchased the Goldcoast camber plates and am using them. Fair amount of work cutting up your LCAs but the most annoying part is having to make what I call "locking plates". I've not been able to tighten the bolts enough to prevent movement when cornering so I resorted to drilling and cutting flatbar to fit between one bolt on the LCA and one on the balljoint which effectively locks the "adjustable" camber plates. Not a big deal if you just want to set them and leave them but otherwise a PITA to remove my locking plates for an alignment and then fab up new ones all the while hoping that between the tire shop and my garage they won't move before I can fab new lock plates.
Do you have any pictures of your install?

You had to cut the arm like this? I just havent seen a finished product
http://goldcoastautomotive.com/uploads/549/Control_arm_instructions.pdf
Were you trying to add or remove negative camber
 

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I'd think you'd add some negative camber.
 

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Do you have any pictures of your install?

You had to cut the arm like this? I just havent seen a finished product
http://goldcoastautomotive.com/uploads/549/Control_arm_instructions.pdf
Were you trying to add or remove negative camber
Here's a couple of links with and without the locking plates.
http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t474/stable46/SVT/Camber-Caster.jpg
http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t474/stable46/SVT/IMG_20140515_160702_011-1.jpg

The instructions you referenced are correct. Rivets are a booger to remove. Actually I just wanted adjustable camber after the alignment shop told me mine was off and could not be adjusted. I've toyed with more neg camber than stock for autocross but have come to the conclusion that stock is probably the best balance for DD & autocross and I just need stickier tires.
 

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Here's a couple of links with and without the locking plates.
http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t474/stable46/SVT/Camber-Caster.jpg
http://i1061.photobucket.com/albums/t474/stable46/SVT/IMG_20140515_160702_011-1.jpg

The instructions you referenced are correct. Rivets are a booger to remove. Actually I just wanted adjustable camber after the alignment shop told me mine was off and could not be adjusted. I've toyed with more neg camber than stock for autocross but have come to the conclusion that stock is probably the best balance for DD & autocross and I just need stickier tires.
I run 2 degree's negative on the front of my foci w/ no tire wear issues. Just rotate your tires.
 

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-1.8 is max stock so -2 doesn't seem too rad. I was running -2.6 and still pushing the front end when Autoxing. My plan is to go with a softer tread compound and go back to stock on camber. I'm hoping for better traction and acceptable tread life.
 

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-1.8 is max stock so -2 doesn't seem too rad. I was running -2.6 and still pushing the front end when Autoxing. My plan is to go with a softer tread compound and go back to stock on camber. I'm hoping for better traction and acceptable tread life.
What sway bars are you running? A torsen will do wonders.
 
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