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Discussion Starter #1
Within the last 3 days i have been having a problem with this Relay being tripped constatly while im driving. Everytime its tripped I lose power while driving. Shutting the car off and turning it back on allows the relay to cool down enough to drive maybe 25 ft. This happens just after I did a complete engine swap.


I read this on another website

The best way to check for a power drain or a "draw" on the battery is to dis-connect the negative, or "Neg" (-) side battery cable and then connect a test light not a meter, between the "Neg" (-) side battery post and the battery terminal at the end of the battery cable.

With the key removed, all of the doors closed, and no accessories turned on, and also if there is a light under the hood dis-connect it for now. Normally the test light when connected should start off bright and then quickly dim down until the test light is almost not even showing a connection and the filament inside of bulb that is inside of the test light will barely glow and not even light up, this is normal and the only thing that should be drawing power is the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) for any control moudules or accessories that require a KAM. If this is the case then the condition of the battery would be suspected of being at fault and an internal short inside of the battery will not show up as a draw on the battery, and the battery voltage will slowly drop off all by itself with nothing even connected to the battery.

If the test light does not dim down and stays bright, or it will dim down but will also still dully light up the test light, then there is a draw on the battery and if you start removing the fuses until the test light dims down and barely makes the test light filament glow, then you will know what circuit is at fault, but if the light never dims down with all of the fuses removed, the doors are all closed, and no accessories are turned on, then dis-connect the wiring to the alternator and if the test light dims down to almost nothing, then the draw is in the alternator itself.

Common places to find a draw are the vanity lights inside of the sun visors are not turning off or are shorted, the power door lock(s) are faulty, or after-market accessories that are not properly installed, and there is even the possibility that something metal has dropped down into a cigarette lighter or a power point and is making a connection there, such as a watch battery. Also check the wiring for any wires that have been melted together or if they are missing insulation allowing the wires to touch each other or a body ground.
Quoted from Zaraki from fixya.com

is this even a plausible idea?

Im at the point where i dont really have any other idea's

I have replaced the relay so i know that that is not the problem. After doing some research i have also pulled some of the most comon fusses that cause this problem... and im at the point now where my battery is dead also. could this be a side effect of doing an engine swap? also a couple months ago my rear drivers side door has stopped with the door locks but i cannot see how that would be a problem as there is no constant power to the door locks is there? This problem persists whether i have lights on or off i have the driving light fuse pulled.

I have disconnected the amp wire also so that removes that from the situation. any and all advice is muchly appreciated

[loveff]
 

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I would use an ammeter myself. Although not cheap it is a much better diagnostic tool.
For instance assuming a 10 Amp draw-that will drain the battery down real fast. A 010 Amp draw is much smaller. A 1 Amp draw might mean a lamp is on someplace. You have a ZX4 is that a sedan? I think so. A hatchback has that troublesome umbilical with shorted/open wires inside.

Other ideas is to disconnect parts of the wire harness. Maybe the wires harness is shorting out inside the channel underneath the doors.
How about that radio suppression capacitor? There has been discussion about that here occasionally [wire pulling out and shorting]

Again an Amp meter is your best friend along with the Ford OEM wiring manual. Find a 10 milliamp [.010 Amp] draw-move on it ain't that.
I have a gut feeling that the ECM and radio draw small amounts of current which is normal
 

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I thought the battery saver relay was what turned off the lights when the car was off, but the lights were on. It seems to me that it's not figuring out that the car is running. The relay is not cooling off, it's resetting, it's a timed switch relay. When the power is cut to the coils, it stays closed for X amount of time, then it cuts off.
 

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Check the fuseable link on the + wire from the alternator to the + batt. It has a little black plastic cover that comes off for inspection.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
okay so this is a lesson to everybody else i had all my power cables disconnected over night went to hook it all back up and realized that the ground wire was lose. Stupid that it took 3 weeks for it to finally disconnect itself enough that i was having problems!!!!


anyways i appreciate all of your feed back.

I left the battery unplugged as to make sure that nothing could possilbly trip the relay therefore i had a fully charged battery to start [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]g around with.... man did i get lucky and not have to go wire hunting!
 

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okay so this is a lesson to everybody else i had all my power cables disconnected over night went to hook it all back up and realized that the ground wire was lose. Stupid that it took 3 weeks for it to finally disconnect itself enough that i was having problems!!!!
OK, this is why I typically recommend checking battery terminals for those sorts of problems. Negative terminal problems= cranking issues, and cutting off completely while driving. Positive terminal= cranking and charging issues.

We didn't even go through a good diagnostic with him, and I'm sorry for that. For one, if it was the battery saving relay- that shuts off the lights, and lights only by increasing resistance. It shouldn't shut off the car. The first question should've been "dimming out or cutting out completely?", and "does the engine cut off too?" Those would've crossed out the BSR from the list of questionable components.

FYI for anyone out there concerned about corrosion: the old farmer's trick of putting grease on the battery post and on the terminal after connecting works like a freaking champ. You can spend money on those keen fuzzy terminal protectors if you want, but if you really want to prevent corrosion- even if the post leaks slightly- then coat that puppy in any sort of grease you have laying around. I use leftover wheel bearing grease on mine, and don't be shy about it. The thicker the coat under the terminal, the better it works. Don't fret about possible loose connections causing the grease to burn, grease is flammable, but have you ever tried to set it on fire? Find an old cigarette lighter that doesn't flame and spark on a pile of grease if you're feeling really scientific.
 
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