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Discussion Starter #1
I joined especially to post this so I hope that I find some people who had similar issues and can help me resolve my current issue! Thank you for reading!

Short story:
Engine makes rattle clanky squeal sounds. batter dies. After charging battery I connect terminals to wrong cables creating sparks and sounding of my horn[slap]. Connect battery correctly and take to my mechanic. Mechanic says alternator is bad. Replaces alternator with re-manufactured alternator from Kragen and no more ugly sounds but now computer will not give OBD readout and the "new" alternator will not charge the battery. battery light, abs light and the occasional oil light all come on after replace of alternator. The day this all began I filled an empty tank with a shot of Fuel Injector Cleaner and about 14.5 gallons of reg unlead. (probably has nothing to do with this but I read somewhere this chicks fuel injector problem caused a short or blown fuse that cause a lot more problems) Please skip to conclusion part of this post - for more information read long story.

Long Story:
Four days ago, I began to hear a grinding sound in my engine. I took it to two different mechanics and the ford dealership all of which said "You have a deep internal problem and it is cheaper and more effective to replace the whole engine" word for word. So I drove home that night with fears that I was going to have to buy a new car or invest some really crazy money.

The next day i go to work... the sound gets worse but I have to drive so i do and come home in the evening. As I pull into my parking stall my battery, oil and ABS lights turn on and my headlights go dim and my car dies. I don't even worry about it till morning.

In the beginning of Day 3, I realize it may be a battery problem or an alternator problem. I remove the battery to take to Kragen to test it and charge it. They say the battery is ok. I bring it home and set it in my car... BACKWARDS! I hook up the Negative Cable to what I thought was the Negative terminal. Then I connect the other at which time I ask my self "Why is it sparking, turning on my fan and honking my horn when i touch the terminal?" Fortunately I didn't actually slide the bracket down the shaft. It was a real quick touch that lasted about a quarter second and I touched it about 3 times until I realized what I had done.

As I finally had both terminals connected appropriately, I drove to Kragen to have them test my Alternator. "Its fried" they said. From there I drove to my mechanic 1 block away and the car died as I pulled off the street into the parking area, coasting into the parking stall.

I told the mechanic the alternator is the problem. He was one of the Mechanics that said "Your engine is blown" the day before. He took the belt off the pulleys and low and behold, the grinding, clanking squealing noises were no longer there "Ill be damned, maybe you wont have to get a new engine after all" he said with a big smile.

He took off the old alternator, applied the new one and said... "Your battery is not getting charged due to the alternator not supplying it power and we can not pull a diagnostic scan from your OBD. I think you blew something when you mixed the terminals on the battery" also saying "it seems to me that since your computer is not giving a readout that perhaps your computer is not telling your alternator to give the charge to the battery".

I took the car to another mechanic who said the battery is supposed to read between 13.5 and 14 but it was only reading 12.1ish. This means your alternator is not charging it and you might have caused a short circuit in one of your wires or a fuse".

Conclusion:
I removed one by one all fuses and found all to be intact. I removed the positive cable as it was running only to have it die as it lost battery power. The battery light will not go on right away but when it comes on within 30 seconds it stays on for the most part, but I have seen it go off for a short amount out of time and come back on and off... The ABS light comes on after the initial battery light. The oil light comes on after the ABS light as if these three trigger consecutively.

Possibilities - New alternator is bad. Computer is shocked and needs reset or is blown and car needs new computer. Wires were shorted out when terminals were botched. Battery and fuses appear to be good.

Has anyone experienced this type of problem and found a solution? If anyone can help would appreciate it greatly! Thank you!
 

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C2H5OH
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Discussion Starter #3
Either the fusible link or the alternator pigtail would be a good bet.

Not being able to scan the car is probably due to not having enough voltage.
Thanks iminhell for your reply. I will research the fusible link and pigtail and repost with more information if I find any.
 
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