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Hey Guys,

Recently I bought a 2002 Ford Focus zx3. It had some problems that i thought were and easy fix. I'm pretty positive that the Transmission Solenoid is bad. Whenever i Put the car into reverse it takes a few seconds to shift into gear and it clunks when it does..any advice?
 

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Moved to General Tech Chat, where you can find more transmission information.

Look at older threads while waiting replies, I'm afraid I've seen mention of wear at the end plate of the trans resulting in pressure loss as one of the more common reasons for your symptom.
 

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Ah yeeeesss, everybody wants to change the 'trick' buzzword part, the solenoids..........500 other parts that can do the same things. You'd think.............aw, I'm just wastin' my time.........
 

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Ah yeeeesss, everybody wants to change the 'trick' buzzword part, the solenoids..........500 other parts that can do the same things. You'd think.............aw, I'm just wastin' my time.........
Yes. But this is one of the few things that tool wielding owners like me and others can do when trans issues arise. Dropping and breaking-down a transmission is out of my comfort zone. Most people with basic tools and basic skills can replace 1 or all 6 solenoids and hope to get the quick & cheap fix... Yes, all in an effort to evade the high costs of paid professionals.

There are a handful (or more) of Focus owners who have done the solenoid replacement thing and fixed their car at home, -and thanked their lucky stars they were able to do it.

Smart or not, I would do it, fixed or not, and would benefit either way. In many or most cases, it is a good first step.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=167830&highlight=p0750

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=130931

Dandcool tyvm for the informative diagram made things insanely easy lost O.D and thought trans would be done Thanks was solenoid A works fine after replacing it, so far drove 20m ill see how it is in a week and then celebrate hehe.
Thank you to everyone for the great information. My OBD reader was saying Solenoid A. Followed the other posters instructions and have no problems again. Most of the shops wanted 2 hours labour. I did it in about 2 hours myself. My 02 Focus has 261k kms. Still going strong. Also did the Thermostat Housing recently.
Old thread or not it just saved me a lot of money
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=394674

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l36SjcB0FuQ
 

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My point is not to kneejerk follow the rest of the lemmings but do it with some intelligence. A chart saying 'not all gears present' on every solenoid is a piece of sh-t. Buy a ATX manual and then look up the solenoid application chart and you can easily figure out in many cases exactly which one is the bad boy or maybe even none.
 

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My point is not to kneejerk follow the rest of the lemmings but do it with some intelligence. A chart saying 'not all gears present' on every solenoid is a piece of sh-t. Buy a ATX manual and then look up the solenoid application chart and you can easily figure out in many cases exactly which one is the bad boy or maybe even none.
Your first point was suggesting that changing the solenoids is or might be a waste of time, -when it might be "500 other parts that can do the same thing". You were dismissing our proven method of fixing a transmission at home and without having to pay a professional. My reply was intended to remind you and the OP that there is nothing wrong with trying it, -if you believe that the solenoids might be causing a trans problem. Yes, it might not fix a trans problem, but many people want and need to try something, and are often are scared of the costs connected to having a professional repair their trans. There are too many success stories, and very few who said "wasted my time and money changing the solenoids".

Your second post was a point. I get it. But you also suggested we are lemmings and would be doing a solenoid (or set of 6) replacement because we lack intelligence -or- that we failed to intelligently isolate the problem before replacing the solenoids. You also said that a solenoid application chart can make it easy to figure out which solenoid needs to be replaced. I disagree. Some symptoms have repeatedly been fixed after replacing SSA, while others needed 2 or more solenoids replaced. Some people have replaced SSA, not fixed the problem, and had to drop the pan again and then replace another or all solenoids. Yes, changing all solenoids is a Broad Stroke Brush, so you or anyone can criticize that it lacks intelligence; while others (like me) might defend it because it offers a good or better chance of fixing your car and lessens the chances of rework.

I have posted this picture before; the solenoid application chart. Deciding which solenoid is causing a particular symptom is not easy (for me), -especially if considering that the PCM is changing pressures via PWM solenoids while simultaneously turning On or Off SSA or SSB.





 

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Top chart is THE one...............and sorry about the comment, but not to insult rather to think about it rather than following the crowd. You are smarter than that. It is for the wider audience. Those who don't fit know who they are.

My proven method of fixing at home first involves determining trans power flow using solenoids AND mechanical parts like clutch packs and bands to figure out whether the solenoid will help or not. OFTEN they don't touch the problem at all, if and ONLY if you detail the problem enough. Many do not and can't even tell you exactly which gears are affected or not affected. It also greatly helps to determine the max wear areas of the trans to be able to adjust for that too, like the end wear issues on these, solenoid may fix that but it may last one month before folding up again. Solenoid does not address pressure loss issues at all. Or in case of OP SLOW engagement of reverse, the solenoid working but pressure is down, on these the end cover wear issue. The clunk is either the final hit or dead trans mount as well.

Why would you change SIX solenoids unless the trans was full of mud for fluid??? The chart clearly shows the possible inter-linkage operation that may require you to change maybe two or worst case three but SIX? No. You gotta read though..........and think. The lemmings simply follow the rest over the cliff. Sorry, after several years of OTC part sales one gets jaded like that and I am not hopeful for things getting any better there. I did OTC in '80-'82 and '09-'13 and it has only gotten MUCH worse, the average backyard thinking ability has dropped like the proverbial rock through lack of use or education or whatever. I decry it but can't cure it.
 

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...
Why would you change SIX solenoids unless the trans was full of mud for fluid??? The chart clearly shows the possible inter-linkage operation that may require you to change maybe two or worst case three but SIX?
Your question might be semi-rhetorical, but I will take a chance on a reply...

Like I said before, changing all 6 is a Broad Stroke Brush... and in most cases, you will be replacing some/many of them un-necessarily. The light justification of this is; not being sure which solenoid/s are causing the problem -and- hoping that you do not have to to drop the pan again and deal with more time, labor, fluid and parts. Also, a set of 6 solenoids can be found for cheap and might outweigh the cost of doing the job twice.

The chart does not easily transfer My Trans Symptom -to-> which solenoid is bad. Thankfully, previous posts of people here at FF make it easier to figure out which solenoid might be bad (based on their experiences) as opposed to dis-ciphering the chart and making assumptions about its' limited info.
 

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Com'on it ain't that hard............like I said, if you do not detail the trans symptom fully, and I mean FULLY, you are not able to do that. You gotta know what gear is there and what ain't and any issue with any gear mentioned. 99% of the OP here don't touch that at all and you wonder why I'm so down on things.................I'd be careful of those previous experiences, some few have claimed fixes that are not possible (read the charts!) and clearly do not know exactly what was done to fix the issue. Or hearsay. The shop commonly can tell a fabrication but at least better than the normal 'you need a new trans' they usually give.

Look at the OP, sailor caught that instantly, the mark of trans wear, reverse going in slow to hit. Rare for a solenoid to produce that, it would have to stick partially to create a partial blockage, they commonly quit to not work or stick all the way on or off rather than partially.

Reverse engaging slow is like a universal mark of trans wear to lower oil pressure, reverse generally is set up to require more pressure to work than any other gear and common on the like 40 years of ATX to show up like that. If you have pressure issues then reverse can generally show it first. On these the end cover wear issue hits reverse before any other gear. Look how the trans interior is set up, remember what I said about looking at the mechanical as well as the solenoid functions???

I fixed a Tempo in around '90 or so with a thirty cent washer after being told I needed the new trans, low and second began slipping very bad. Car is still running fine today and no slip at all. Just by looking at the mechanical. But you gotta read and think, not being sure of whether part will fix things means you have dropped the creative thinking in your behalf halfway through it and the hoping is a p-sspoor replacement for that thinking. I hope as well but generally it works rather than not. You gotta put as many factors in your favor as you can if you want to push the success rate up. I fixed another Tempo for the price of a $15 pump driveshaft. Another for the price of a sheet of sandpaper to recontour a throttle shift valve that was sticking making trans not shift or shift hard as rock. Still running today as well. I got cars coming out of my ears.

Hey, your stuff and do as you will, you'll have six new solenoids.

I've fixed OD slip and flare on these 4F27E with a hardware store bolt that I used to make a 2-4 band adjuster, cost about $5 for parts. Trans normally does not come with one.

I rebuilt a CD4E for my Contour back in '07, 150K on it, I didn't change a single solenoid and car still runs fine. In fact I haven't changed one on anything yet but when I do I'll have a reason other than just throwing parts at it.

The not taking time to read and understand is part of the problem, if one did they'd figure out pretty quick that if you can work on the engine you can ATX as well. The rotating mass is not hard to understand at all and you don't have to be a rocket scientist understanding all the hydro stuff. Just get a service manual showing where all hydraulic valves go and pay dead close attention to that while looking for normal wear you'd find in anything else. Presto chango! you're an ATX expert with no formal training at all. You'll be at least as good as most in the repair shops, some of them are, dare I say it? The 'L' word. You'll be better than that.

FYI, there is another chart that shows the actual state of the mechanical clutch packs and OWCs and band(s) in different gears that if you combine with that solenoid application chart cements things even more firmly in place. But if you have trouble with one chart, two aren't going to help are they? I want BOTH.
 

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Com'on it ain't that hard............

<snip>
Got you right where I want you. Fired up and pushing out some very good info. Thanks for the big and useful post. So much better than your usual dribble...

-just kidding
-just kidding
-just kidding
-just kidding
-just kidding
-just kidding
-just kidding

I will nose thru my ATX book and see if I can find that other chart you mentioned, and post it here. But later, out of time now.
 

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^^ yep. Thx.

I will nose thru my ATX book and see if I can find that other chart you mentioned, and post it here. But later, out of time now.
Component App Chart
 

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That would be it................put those two charts together and think and much becomes at least clearer. Sometimes 100% crystal clear. The trans either spits out solenoid or a mechanical part fails, can be either one. On these the gray end cover on the left wears at the hub where the small square red seal rings are for reverse and direct clutches. The 2-4 band can DNF too from broken/loose pin in the activating servo piston, common. The two accumulators can wear at the bores too. The valve body can wear the hardcoat off valves and they then begin to stick/seize.
 

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2007 trans shifting - P0772

So, I'm having a similar problem. 07 Focus Cant make the shift to third (or is it to OD, can't really tell, only shifts one time that I can tell) goes into neutral, and freewheels until the speed comes down, OD light off flashes orange. trouble code P0772, Solenoid E stuck. Changed solenoid but no effect on problem. Do iI need to also change solenoid A? Do they possibly work together, E and A?
The car runs good up to about 45 mph, shifts into reverse properly, the shift from neutral to D isn't slow. What am I missing?
 

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What am I missing?
Problems with 3rd to 4th (OD) have a history of being a defective SSA.

You said "same problem", but do you still have the P0772 DTC?

I would ring-out the whole Trans system with a DVM while testing at the PCM. Using the charts on page-1 gives you proper or normal resistance values your looking for. Problem is; that chart shows a Zetec engine type of PCM connector; while yours is a Durtec, so you need the pin-numbers for a plug named C175T, not C175, which is depicted in that chart. Those pin numbers are for C175 (a 104 pin plug), not your C175T (a 50 pin plug).

Sorry man, no time to translate the pin numbers to the C175T configuration at the moment. maybe later. Also, I do not believe you would really find a problem ringing-out the wires, but it is a good or smart step before replacing more solenoids. Total guess says; replace SSA, maybe SSB too... and maybe even SSE again.

I do not possess the "charts verses symptoms interpreting skills" that some other people do. Someone else might come along and provide some better advise, hope so, because I really have very little experience in this stuff.

You might also want to provide some better, or more descriptions of what your car is doing. Does it only have one symptom? Does it shift and drive OK when you place the gear select in "1" and in "2" and R?
 

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'Problems with 3rd to 4th (OD) have a history of being a defective SSA.'

ALL shift solenoids are OFF in D3, SSA comes on with OD ONLY. Or, not nearly a cure for D3 missing, supposing of course that D3 IS missing.

More confusion based on interpretation over the net. Guy says '....or it is OD, can't really tell...' and if so then no guarantee it's not first shifting to third instead and throwing everything discussed in the trash. Why poster has to be DEAD ON as to which gear is there and which is not. They often cannot do that and the merry chase to blow badly needed cash begins...................guessing there insures the car ends up in the shop in frustration.

Could be simple like piece of trash stuck in solenoid fluid passage to remain while solenoid was changed. Could be shorted solenoid power wire. Could be filthy fluid, new solenoid just stuck too. Not likely that though.

Could be a direct clutch issue like said. If high mileage on car and problem did not appear instantly out of nowhere, rather getting steadily worse. The DTC could be PCM farking out when it doesn't see rpm change as it should in D3 or OD.

As you can see lots of little things color the issue one way or the other and simple 2-3 facts don't cut it on ATX and even worse now that they've added the solenoids. All of it is guessing game, less facts=crap guess. Believe me, people loathe it when you don't tell them EXACTLY what's wrong but their initial question is what normally causes that. The 'dribble' so to speak.........................love ya'll
 

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'Problems with 3rd to 4th (OD) have a history of being a defective SSA.'

And how the mis-info starts, misleading in wrong direction, ALL shift solenoids are OFF in D3, SSA comes on with OD ONLY.
Hi amc49! Hey man, I believe you and I were trying to say the same thing; and yet your reply acted like my reply was IN FAR DEEP SPACE. Lack of effective communication going on between you and I at the moment.

4th gear = OD right? If yes, please reread what I said;
"Problems with 3rd to 4th (OD) have a history of being a defective SSA."

Dispite the guys' uncertainty, seemed like he has 3rd gear ok, but fails to catch 4th -or- drops out of 4th gear. That symptom is often connected to a defect of SSA.

Appreciate you telling-me-off though, makes me feel loved and all is good in the world. This place might be boring without you.
 

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If it has no 4th it wouldn't have 2nd either the same band is applied during both 1-2 and 3-4 shifts. Going into neutral sounds like the direct clutch may have a leak or be toast. But anything is possible.
 
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