Com'on it ain't that hard............like I said, if you do not detail the trans symptom fully, and I mean FULLY, you are not able to do that. You gotta know what gear is there and what ain't and any issue with any gear mentioned. 99% of the OP here don't touch that at all and you wonder why I'm so down on things.................I'd be careful of those previous experiences, some few have claimed fixes that are not possible (read the charts!) and clearly do not know exactly what was done to fix the issue. Or hearsay. The shop commonly can tell a fabrication but at least better than the normal 'you need a new trans' they usually give.
Look at the OP, sailor caught that instantly, the mark of trans wear, reverse going in slow to hit. Rare for a solenoid to produce that, it would have to stick partially to create a partial blockage, they commonly quit to not work or stick all the way on or off rather than partially.
Reverse engaging slow is like a universal mark of trans wear to lower oil pressure, reverse generally is set up to require more pressure to work than any other gear and common on the like 40 years of ATX to show up like that. If you have pressure issues then reverse can generally show it first. On these the end cover wear issue hits reverse before any other gear. Look how the trans interior is set up, remember what I said about looking at the mechanical as well as the solenoid functions???
I fixed a Tempo in around '90 or so with a thirty cent washer after being told I needed the new trans, low and second began slipping very bad. Car is still running fine today and no slip at all. Just by looking at the mechanical. But you gotta read and think, not being sure of whether part will fix things means you have dropped the creative thinking in your behalf halfway through it and the hoping is a p-sspoor replacement for that thinking. I hope as well but generally it works rather than not. You gotta put as many factors in your favor as you can if you want to push the success rate up. I fixed another Tempo for the price of a $15 pump driveshaft. Another for the price of a sheet of sandpaper to recontour a throttle shift valve that was sticking making trans not shift or shift hard as rock. Still running today as well. I got cars coming out of my ears.
Hey, your stuff and do as you will, you'll have six new solenoids.
I've fixed OD slip and flare on these 4F27E with a hardware store bolt that I used to make a 2-4 band adjuster, cost about $5 for parts. Trans normally does not come with one.
I rebuilt a CD4E for my Contour back in '07, 150K on it, I didn't change a single solenoid and car still runs fine. In fact I haven't changed one on anything yet but when I do I'll have a reason other than just throwing parts at it.
The not taking time to read and understand is part of the problem, if one did they'd figure out pretty quick that if you can work on the engine you can ATX as well. The rotating mass is not hard to understand at all and you don't have to be a rocket scientist understanding all the hydro stuff. Just get a service manual showing where all hydraulic valves go and pay dead close attention to that while looking for normal wear you'd find in anything else. Presto chango! you're an ATX expert with no formal training at all. You'll be at least as good as most in the repair shops, some of them are, dare I say it? The 'L' word. You'll be better than that.
FYI, there is another chart that shows the actual state of the mechanical clutch packs and OWCs and band(s) in different gears that if you combine with that solenoid application chart cements things even more firmly in place. But if you have trouble with one chart, two aren't going to help are they? I want BOTH.
