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Discussion Starter #1
So today I replaced a tire on the front passenger side because of a bad crack in it, after replacing it iv noticed at highway speed iv got a bit of a drift on the driver side no noticeable different in the 2 tires but one is definitely brandnew. With that being said I had an alignment done a few months back so I would suspect it would be an alignment issue but figured I'd ask the lovely world of focus.
 

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It's the tire. Simply put it somewhere else on the car. Maybe the opposite side.

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Discussion Starter #4
Is there a reason why and my back tires have been on there for a while I bought the car like that so I dont know if I'll get that choppy feeling back again. I do have a new tire in the back still that's a few months old do you think it's already got a wear pattern in it?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Or should I just by another new one and put it up front and swap out the other side for the back one that's got a patch on it
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cause I was told to always at least by 2 new tires at a time so I get paid again in a couple days so I could just pay 64 bucks again to have a new one put on the front so I have 2 new tires up front
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My other question is is it possible they they are cupping my suspension isnt showing my signs of being shot though. That's just what I'm confused about
 

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Check tire pressures and visually inspect for any uneven wear.

You don't have to replace two tires at the same time but I also recommend you do if the wear between the two tires are radically different.

You put the new tires on the back to reduce the chances of the rear of the car losing traction and going into oversteer in poor driving conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If I put the tire front the back up front I get choppy steering because they have a wear pattern in them the thread is different as well. The ones I have on the back right now are lower thread but with out putting a penny between them tous never tell that they has less thread then the front so what I'm gonna do is just keep it the way I have it now which is the 2 month old tire I had on the back is up front with the new tire and the oldies in the back and then Friday I'm gonna have the 2 month old tire move back to the back and the back moves up deont and that tire replaced and keep that one for a full size spare
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Can driving on a tire that has a wear pattern from the back mess anything up on my car or will it just eventually wear a new pattern in it
 

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Absolutely, the rears go out of round like the fronts never do and why I NEVER rotate tires on FWD. I never put new on the back either, that helps in rain but new on the front helps with ALL driving so much I always go to the front. It's like the same improvement as on back but spread out over all the driving you so.

The rears only need to be good on ice mainly, I even drive them in lots of rain with no issues at all and worn. And with most nails (8 out of 10) going into back tires it's an immediate way to not ruin a new tire over a nail. I fixed like 6 flats this year and all were on the rear. Important as I save more money by never getting road hazard, it saves $10-$15 a tire.

You can get away with murder on tire quality on the back, the back simply lines up with the front like a trailer and then the front produces all handling quality on normal dry pavement. I change pairs at a time, the new go on front always and the fronts then go on back to die and most I can run down 100% to past the wear bars or simply blow them out. The nails usually get them or tire cracking because they are so old.

Putting the new tires on back is why you guys have to align so much, get the car aligned once really well and then put all new tires on front and never align the cars over 10 years of driving. I align my own but simply no need to do it, replace the tires in pairs and then the car simply goes back to perfect handling with no alignment needed.

I was just forced to change one wheel and tire from junkyard when some -ss stole a STEEL front wheel off my Nissan, used junkyard wheel/tire with lots of tread and put on front and matched it with a new one for other side when that one was very worn. Went to 195s on front and will later change the back 185s to match, now the car is running perfectly and tracking and handling are like a new car.
 

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The rears only need to be good on ice mainly, I even drive them in lots of rain with no issues at all and worn.
On any surface. Many tire shops won't even put new tires on the front for liability reasons.

Putting the new tires on back is why you guys have to align so much, get the car aligned once really well and then put all new tires on front and never align the cars over 10 years of driving. I align my own but simply no need to do it, replace the tires in pairs and then the car simply goes back to perfect handling with no alignment needed.
Absolutely, the rears go out of round like the fronts never do and why I NEVER rotate tires on FWD.
I've never heard such a false claims before. Ever. If the car was sitting for a long time or the tire was garbage then yea flat spots occur but I have not once ever heard of the "rears going out of round" while the front tires are fine.
 

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Yep it's a big liability issue because the new front tires can give you a false sense of grip while the rear end comes out from underneath you.
My parents typically replace tires in pairs due to financial reasons.
My wife and I always replace them in sets of 4. I will also not allow my wife's vehicle to ever have tires that are low on tread.

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Discussion Starter #15
So my plan is to just buy a new on for the driver side friday since I bough a new one for the passengers side 3 days ago, with that being said I have a 3 month old tire on the back that I'm gonna leave there an replace the other rear passenger side tire at some point, my kids birthdays coming up so I'm tight for cash
 

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It's NOT any liability issue and ALL the tire shops around here ask freely where you want the tires put on at what location. It ceases to be a liability issue (for them anyway) as soon as the tire guy asks you and YOU tell HIM where to put them on. If you are going to spout Trumpian ideas you may as well learn the thinking of the Republican. Beginning with........self action is self liability.

'I've never heard such a false claims before. Ever.'

So now I am a liar. Said by one who then immediately admits he has 'never heard of it', and that is supposed to be some kind of a basis for truth and an accurate judgement? Pretty witless if you ask me. You've never heard of anybody fixing an ATX slipping badly in 1 and 2 with a thirty cent washer to go on for 20 more years with zero issues before either, now you have. I've done a hundred things you've never heard of that worked for years. Ever hear of anyone rebuilding ball bearings??? Me. Rebuilding trans range sensors? Me. I rebuild plug wires using old pieces. I reuse old plugs after glassbeading them, like new then after refacing the tips. I fix flats so much better than anyone I ever paid there is no comparison at a 90% success rate, I don't even pull tire off the car. I quit balancing all tires long ago except on special occasions, the cars (4) all still run to 80 mph before you can even tell it. No road hazard paid in 40 years, I'M the insurance there. I rebuild all engines and transmissions myself and do NOT EVER buy complete units, when I say rebuild I mean ME. Rebuilt racks, Rebuilt PS pumps. All me.

The tip of the iceberg, I could go on for hours doing things nobody else ever does, if I see money in it I do it.

It's not my responsibility to guarantee accurate thinking here onsite, but I ask that people take their Trumpian 'truth is not truth' bullsh-t somewhere else, I don't have high tolerance for it. If one is not smart enough to make my simple ideas work so much the worse for him.

I built a life of doing the unexpected to solve issues solid as a rock and usually at pennies on the dollar. Cars are only the tip of that. If what I do cannot work for you then I suggest you look at the immediate obstacle most likely responsible for that.........here, I'll loan you a mirror.

When you get done you can go get the car aligned...........again.

I can explain the physics of why the rears do it and the fronts don't but one has to be able to think to grasp it. It doesn't matter anyway, I for one make money off of it, the rest of you can stay as stupid and as broke as you like. Nobody ever said we had to be smart about any of it.
 

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This..........is just stupid..........

'On any surface.'

A person who has no idea that 80% of all braking stopping power comes from the front, the rears lift at braking to lose most adhesion, good tires or bad.

In addition, you are putting the tires on the end of the car that will come loose due to side inertia the fastest, EVEN with brand new rubber on it. YES, you can lose control by the rear coming loose, BUT which condition will the car most likely be in IF YOU ARE DRIVING CORRECTLY AND CAREFULLY as you should be doing to begin with??? The answer is clearly hitting something with the front of the car. You can redo probability studies 50 times and will still get the same answer there. So, NOW we are saying 'I have to tire the car up to make up for me being too incompetent to drive it in the conditions at the time. And I lowered the braking going forward (which I do a lot more of) doing it.'.

THAT one makes you sound so much more intelligent, and little wonder why then this country is so f-cked up.

I wasn't making things up about that 10 year alignment thing either, again you guys can throw away all the money you want there. There is rarely a need for complete alignment, only a minor toe adjustment here or there. I can tell which way to go and how much by driving the car and it's done in 5 minutes. Sorry you can't mimic that. I learned it working on 200+ mph drag cars. Later I learned that simple new tiring up the front does the same, I would have to undo the last toe move I made to get back where I was before doing it. Now I just put the tires up front, the car instantly goes back to perfect handling. You guys haven't a clue.

You have never discovered how the rear tires tracking like a semi-trailer does can be used to your benefit.

We DO get ice here, and I've never had any handling trouble in it at all. Rain is a zero issue, it was worse when the fronts ran low on tread, then the car jerks from side to side because it is not a locking diff.

You guys spend all that stupidity and money on align splitting minutes of a degree without ever grasping the solid fact that any car on earth can be within a 1/16" and drive fine all day long. Tire and rubber bushing squirm under load blows more than that in error correction alone. You can be off up to an 1/8" if you put the error in your favor. I am NOT that sloppy but after self aligning enough cars with no machine I began to get looser with the exactness just to see what issues would show up, the answer is most don't until you get out more than that. Then I go after all the alignment specsheets shown here onsite to realize more and more that nothing is out enough to produce the issues claimed meaning it MUST be the tires. More proof that the aligns are NOT needed if the tires are sound but they aren't. 30+ years driving bikes helped there as well, just line up one of those, yet the tires produce handling issue after issue.

All the alignment computer did was to fill your heads full of utter crap. And what it was made to do, scare you into thinking it's all some supersecret mumbo-jumbo bullsh-t. The 40% cannot live without it. Thinking people say 'get that junk out of my way'.
 

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Yep you know everything and think it's okay to call people stupid. Broke I don't think so.
Discount tire for example will only put new tires on the rear.
I am anal I like my car's very precise.
If I could take my car to a Porsche race engineer for alignments I would.




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Lmfao, wow amc49 can you get any more butthurt?

You notice how you have zero proof of anything you said? Nobody cares "you aligned 200mph drag cars." OMG I USED TO ALIGN DRAG CARS, IM A PROFESSIONAL. LISTEN TO ME CAUSE I'M RIGHT AND YOU'RE WRONG. Yea, you're the very epitome of the person you're trying to talk crap about. Funny, not to mention that's been your only reason on why people should listen to you.

A car with 1/16" alignment that is off can be pretty noticeable. Most people can't tell the difference though and that's fine. I can adjust my own alignments on the Evo pretty easily. In fact, I just did it this past weekend so you're not special here. If you ever went to a real track where there's actually turns, many drivers can easily tell when their alignment is off.

If your reasoning for the rear wheels going out of round was true, then every car with 50/50 weight distro wouldn't have that issue, or every car with a mid/rear engine car would have the issues with their front tires. Durr.

By the way, 80% of braking force does not come from the front. I'd like to see how you got this number; show us your angular momentum math solving please. Go talk to a real brake engineer from Brembo, PFC, or AP racing so they can laugh at you next time they get together and tell stories.

In addition, you are putting the tires on the end of the car that will come loose due to side inertia the fastest, EVEN with brand new rubber on it. YES, you can lose control by the rear coming loose, BUT which condition will the car most likely be in IF YOU ARE DRIVING CORRECTLY AND CAREFULLY as you should be doing to begin with???
Lmfao if you are "driving correctly and carefully" then you shouldn't have an issue with the tires breaking traction anyways, right? Here is a link to tire rack to prove why new tires should be installed on the rear. Cars from the factory are designed to understeer. You've obviously have never actually driven a car in some sort of high performance event. Go ahead and prove the real professionals wrong because you "aligned 200mph drag cars" or because you "never had an issue when driving."

What a joke.
 

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'angular momentum math solving'

That is an incorrect conclusion, the momentum means the number is changing at the time, an unfigurable (=useless) number since it is not in stasis. The true number is only once the momentum has largely stopped to then have full inertia applied to the front of car mainly. When the car body is still shifting the number is much lower, the weight has not fully transferred yet. You and I both know that. So, a lot of math done for nothing, maybe YOU think it is worth something. You dirtied up the post with it; I guess it was useful to you.

Real world..........I get virtually 50k from 50K warranty tires unless they damage out, I don't balance, I don't buy road hazard, I buy tires in pairs only, the cars drive fine with zero eccentricities at all. Ice and rain are fine and the wife drives in them too thinking all is right with the world.

I guess you are saying we're crazy, because if so, I intend to stay in that world as long as I can.

As far as dismissing a problem (tire oscillation) as non-existent because one has never seen it, well, that's what people do. One might do well to think about wheel hop against a suspension, very close to the same idea and that doesn't exist either does it? The car weight should stop that too, why doesn't it?

Yeah, I'm the stupid one. Life is good.
 
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