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I am a rookie to the autocross. I have been racing in my region all season and I am leading the points, but I am always looking to improve. I am looking to get some idea's for an autox alignment on the factory SVTF. I will take any suggestions. Thanks, in advance.[???:)]
 

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[strongman] Someone help this guy, he's been waiting over 3yrs for an answer[giggle]
 

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OK - so I've seen post-whoring (on the 430hp SVT thread), is this what they call post-mining? [smackbum]

I'm actually curious about the answer - I seem to have more outside-half wear on my tires that I'm using for AX, but can't really compromise my alignment for daily driving.
 

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I have no idea about an alignment specific for autocrossing... I know that if you ask whoever you get your alignment from to weight the driver seat it will help...
 

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You can run up to -2.5* of camber without any serious tire wear.

I'm running -2* and about 1/8th inch toe out front and rear... boy does it handle great.
 

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The Librarian
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Good Lord...lets not wake up the dead.
This thread got lost a long time ago cause it was in the wrong forums...Moved...

But then again. [:D]
I'm running:
Rear
Camber L/R: -1.5°
Total Toe: 0
Front
Camber L/R: -1.0° (that's all I can get without plates)
Total Toe: 0.15° to 0.2° (toe out)
 

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thanks for bringing this back from the dead. I was just wondering the same thing, actually. I hope some good info shows on this thread [woot]
 

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According to the rules...

You can set the suspension angles up as you see fit.

Here's the problem. If you are a stock SVT without front and rear camber plates about all you are going to get is 1 degree of negative camber in the front. The rear is not adjustable.

I agree with the previous post. For stock trim, dial in the full 1 degree of negative camber with a very slight toe in.

If you have the camber plates or intend to get them, I believe that puts you in a prepared class. So, be careful of that. Otherwise, I would go with Orange's recommendation.

However, if you run these dramatic tire angles all the time, you can expect some pretty dramatic tire wear in a short period of time (depending on how often and how hard you drive the car).

Good luck!
 

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In case anyone revives this again....


From the Tire Racks site:

"If you are a reserved driver, aligning your vehicle to the vehicle manufacturer's preferred settings is appropriate.

If you are an assertive driver who enjoys driving hard through the corners and expressway ramps, a performance alignment is appropriate for your car. A performance alignment consists of using the vehicle manufacturer's range of alignment specifications to maximize the tires' performance. A performance alignment calls for the manufacturer's maximum negative camber, maximum positive caster, and preferred toe settings. While remaining within the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations, these alignment settings will maximize tire performance.

If you are a competition driver who frequently runs autocross, track or road race events, you'll typically want the maximum negative camber, maximum positive caster and most aggressive toe settings available from the car and permitted by the competition rules. If the rules permit, aftermarket camber plates and caster adjustments are good investments.

Many of today's alignment machines are equipped with printouts that compare the "before" and "after" alignment angles with the manufacturers' specifications. Requesting a post alignment printout can help you confirm the thoroughness of the alignment technician and preserve a record of your vehicle's intended settings in the case of an encounter with a suspension damaging road hazard."

full article is here: >> Read Me <<
 

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The Librarian
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For stock trim, dial in the full 1 degree of negative camber with a very slight toe in.

If you have the camber plates or intend to get them, I believe that puts you in a prepared class. So, be careful of that.

However, if you run these dramatic tire angles all the time, you can expect some pretty dramatic tire wear in a short period of time (depending on how often and how hard you drive the car).
1) I highly recommend toe out on an AutoCross course, unless you like massive amounts of understeer, and horrid turn in rates.
Toe in might be better for high speed sweepers (70mph+) on a Road Course, but again, for AutoCross, dial in some toe out.

2) Camber plates are allowed in all classes except Stock.
I'm going to be running them this year in STS.

3) My alignment settings noted above have returned the greatest tire mileage yet.
IMHO, having the rears as close to 0° toe possible is a huge help.
I realize, they aren't radical settings by any means, especially the front camber,
but I am surprised how much better the tires wear.
 

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Yep...

WD40 is right. I mention my preferred settings only becasue of the time and expense associated with returning to stock settings.

For novices, anything within the allowable tolerances for the factory settings should be sufficient.

If you make the decision to "go pro" and look to glean that extra 1/10th or so, then make the changes. If not, learn the car and go with your stock setup. If you do change, and not return to spec, then understand that you could experience adverse tire wear...
 

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Just had mine done at a shop here in town and they were extremely cool.

I told them it was my daily driver but that I autoX as well and they set my camber to the furthest negative setting within factory tollerances (my rears are at -2 fronts I cant recall), set my front toe as close to zero as possible (ie .01) and toed out the rear just a tad. They also rotated my tires for me and requested that I call back in a few days to let them know how I like it....all for 60 bucks [woot]
 

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To get a -2 in the rear is pretty impressive. Mine won't adjust without some significant banging and cranking. I suppose that's good news because it sits at 0 for both rear wheels. I've owned the car for 4 years and the rear has never been adjusted.
 

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The Librarian
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set my front toe as close to zero as possible
Again, as in my previous post, the preferred setup is for toe out on the front.
You're going to notice it pushing (understeer) with the front positioned where it is at the moment,
and it's not going to be very responsive whatsoever at initial turn in.
And, with the front close to 0, and the rear at toe out, you'll find yourself going sideways right off your line.
^^^The front will be pushing towards the outside of the turn, while the rear is following right along with it due to the toe out.

There's a reason the factory specs for the SVTF call for so much toe out, and IMHO, there's no reason to change that.
I've played with it a lot on the track (AutoCross), and I can safely say that more (out) is better. [;)]

As far as tire wear...
If the rear is at -2° with toe out, I hope you have some money saved up to get a new set of tires a couple times a year.

Sorry to come off so strong, but IMHO, that's not a good setup.
Neither for the track, nor the street.
 

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set my front toe as close to zero as possible
Again, as in my previous post, the preferred setup is for toe out on the front.
You're going to notice it pushing (understeer) with the front positioned where it is at the moment,
and it's not going to be very responsive whatsoever at initial turn in.
And, with the front close to 0, and the rear at toe out, you'll find yourself going sideways right off your line.
^^^The front will be pushing towards the outside of the turn, while the rear is following right along with it due to the toe out.

There's a reason the factory specs for the SVTF call for so much toe out, and IMHO, there's no reason to change that.
I've played with it a lot on the track (AutoCross), and I can safely say that more (out) is better. [;)]

As far as tire wear...
If the rear is at -2° with toe out, I hope you have some money saved up to get a new set of tires a couple times a year.

Sorry to come off so strong, but IMHO, that's not a good setup.
Neither for the track, nor the street.
Like I said, I'm with you. Closer to stock the better unless you have ready access to an alignment machine to return the specs to stock after an event.
 

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just pulled my sheet from the glove box and this is where they put my settings:

Front: Camber -1 Caster 2.5 Toe -.01 Total Toe: -.01
Rear: Camber -2 Toe: .08 Total Toe: .16


They told me to give a try and see what I thought...then get back to them in a couple of days. I can say that its def better than where I was before and it is within the outter ranges of the recomended stock settings...they really arent all that extreme.

My toe in the front was -.56 when I took it in...they adjusted it as best they could up front without plates being put in and I can only afford so much.

Being that I whooped on most people in DSP with only stock suspension and AS tires (top four out of around 10/12) I think this and the new springs and adjustables will do me ok, and I should be able to compensate the push with tire pressure, adjustables and the sways. I will keep my eye on the rears...I have rear camber bolts in, so I can add a lil positive if the wear gets crazy.
 

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I'm glad this post was resurrected - I went ahead and took my car in to see what was the current alignment - had toe-in in the back and neutral toe in front. Now I have it set to:
Front:
-1.2 deg camber (I'll get some plates when I'm ready to step up to real AX tires)
1/16in total toe-out
Rear:
-1.8 deg camber
0 toe-in/out

I'll see how it feels this weekend!
 
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