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Discussion Starter #1
Ok. So I am getting a gush of transmission fluid from the weep hole on the bottom of my 2005 Ford focus zx4. What do you think? Torque converter seal? Pump seal? While moving it does not seem to leak as bad as when I come to a stop. In park with engine idling there is not a noticeable leak. Function was fine when parked. Just dropped the trans pan and did the filter and replaced solenoid A while I was at it. Wanted to check the pan for big chunks. It seems normal for 150k. No big metal chunks so pretty sure just a seal failure of some sort. Anybody know what kind of $$ I am looking at?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
All the shops around here don't just want to replace the seal. Say it might pop back out due to the tunnel being worn from torque converter? Man, rebuilt transmissions are crazy high. Anybody got a source in US?
 

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ALL shops pretty much do whatever lying it takes to get the entire trans changed now, they do not want to fix minor things at all any longer. Partly because their help is not competent enough to do it at the rates they pay, they only want trans installers now.

The seal won't pop out, that is the silliest thing I've ever heard and I rebuild ATX. Likely a seal may fix it but if the bushings the converter snout and stator main support are held up by are worn enough there can be enough play in there to let the shaft(s) tilt out of plane enough to leak even with a good new seal there, the seal only squeezes in maybe .015", any wear beyond that in bushing and leak city.

At my house that means changing a couple of bushings at maybe $5-$10 each but one is in the front pump and no way will those coward shops be changing that one. May need a new converter as well depending on the snout wear, careful measuring required to determine that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
One of the guys at AAMCO said I might get away with the seal refresh they do for around $750. But once they crack it open is probably when they will bend me over. Friend at work gave me the # for a guy that does transmission work for Hyundai but
does side work on weekends. Gonna give him a call and see what's up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So what parts?

If I am going to rebuild this thing..... Was there a heavier duty version of 4f27e to be had I could get clutch packs and other parts from? If you were going to rebuild one what parts would you use? I just want it a little sportier feeling, if they are gonna crack it open then I want new parts where I can.
 

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For sportier feeling a Tune would be best , I can change shift pressure , shift rpm and more

There really are no more ATX parts out there , same will say change the valve body but the tune will give you better results at a cheaper price

Tom
 

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And a seal alone may well fix it, they will likely do that first anyway instead of bothering to mike all the bushing IDs and ODs chasing wear. AFTER the seal along doesn't work then they get you twice. Double money that way.

Per Tom, the only ATX hi-perf out there was Lentech and they built entire transmissions only. Big $$$$$$$.

A tune can do what you want easily. That stuff is all software controlled.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I am working on this.

What I have put together.
Got new internals from a zero mile pull apart OEM transmission off eBay. Rear cover, direct and reverse drums,forward clutch and shaft, no visible wear marks to be seen so I think this is legit.

Ordered the Superior products shift kit for the valvebody which should raise line pressure some from what I understand.

Picking up the Alto red friction and steels for the 4f27e as well. That should firm things up a lot in the shift department as well.

All should be in sometime next week.
Now gotta finish talking to one of the shops around here to put it all together. It is tempting to try myself but too many little steps to remember and a lack of proper equipment keep me from being stupid.

Is there a "best" brand when it comes to overhaul kits for auto trans?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Auto trans woes- MONSTER rebuild

Parts thus far
Alto Red:
133740-160 forward and reverse clutch and steels set
133960- band
133757-direct clutch and steel set

Ford OEM
New pistons
Drums
End cover
(All from zero mile pull apart transmissions)

Superior 4f27e billet accumulators

Thank you Roy @ Alto Products for helping me find some part #'s!!!
 

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Need to look at all bushings not changed too, the ones by the front input and converter often wear enough to seem all right but leak when put together and enough to affect line pressure. I'm always leery of the needle bearing thrusts too as they look brand new even years old and they come apart disastrously with no warning to tear up stuff bad since the needles are so hard. Beyond that the bushings keep all parts in perfect perpendicularity to keep them in line and no lean and why the end cover begins to wear, the rotating weight loosens up the bushings then parts begin to lean out of square to make trans last 3 years instead of the 10 it could have simply with tight bushings to hold all square. The clutch packs need to be within all limits and I set them to the tight side to lock in performance characteristics that get lost when the clutch packs can argue with each other over shift overlap timings when they get loose at the clutches. The band servo piston needs to be brand new, don't use a used one. Check the OWCs for instant locking and zero slip the other way. The ends of all major shafts preload into the cases on both ends and if any shafts get changed the preload has to reset and it should even be rechecked on same parts as the preload may have dropped off. Really needed at the 3 gear final geartrain to differential and diff (both ends) itself to avoid gear whine. You will be faced with what to do with the output hub that gets left in trans case, it has a very special setup procedure requiring special tooling. Most rebuilders leave it alone, they are afraid of screwing it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Definitely. I am just collecting a good chunk of the parts. The assembly is going to be done by a professional. May drop it myself and take it up there bit I want them to install it too so I will probly just pay the 200 extra drop fee.
 

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You should be warned that most 'professionals' will NOT check all those clearances, the norm is for them to simply slap all parts together. Take 'rebuilt' converters, often not rebuilt at all and not even flushed clean, even though they claim to. I have bought and sent back converter with broken pieces of thrust washer coming out when I flushed it myself. Dacco Converter, they ship all over the US.

I have personally watched assembly going on at the largest shop here in Dallas, the word professional does not fit anywhere there. Now it is TranStar, largest ATX parts distributor in the US.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hoping he is good. I am giving a to do list with my car for the quote. The shop is ATRA members at least. Guess seems good. Great reviews from the local people.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I picked up SVT rear calipers for 20 bux yesterday. No hubs and mounting bracket though... O well off to the salvage yard soon I guess.

If anybody wants a OEM header and throttle body from an 03 SVT let me know. I would post in the for sale section but it won't let me start a thread there.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So we have everything planned out and started. Ended up with a DA54 converter with a medium/high stall speed. Alto red clutches and steels, billet actuators, reman valve body with spring upgrades. Gonna cost me $1600 total with all the parts but I should have a healthy 4f27e I can swap into my next vehicle which will be a zx5 with a built 2.3 Duratec. I want to figure out what machining was done to get the LSD in there like Lenn and Performance Automatic used to pull off. Looks to me like it's a machining and case swap type conversion. Tried to search for tech specs but can't find them. If anybody has a line on a used valve body with trans take add on. PM me.
 
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