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Discussion Starter #1
I have a newly purchased, 2008 Focus SE with 120k miles. No known history other than I know it was a fleet vehicle sometime in it's life. Picked it up for my twin daughter's first car.
I've had several Foci in the past and am pretty well versed with the common repairs.

I have already replaced solenoids A and B, along with a filter and 3 quarts of fresh Mercon LV.

I am ready to bite the bullet and replace the remaining solenoids, if that will help, but now I have my doubts.
Maybe throw in a used trans.

Symtoms: Once car is up to operating temp, shifts from 1-2 and 2-3 flare out about 1000 rpms before upshifting. There does not seem to be any slippage when accelerating, only at the shift points.
I also experience harsh downshifts from 4-2 during passing. If OD Off, 3-2 downshift is much smoother without the harshness.

Hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I am kind of regretting this car right now.

Thanks,
Alan
 

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Cracked band or broken servo piston, both of which affect 2 and 4 and then the others when they shift to 2 or 4.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is that something that could be verified with the trans still in the car? I’m assuming the servo piston could be replaced in car but not the band. I’ll have to do a little more research.
At this point, if I have to pull the trans, is one from a salvage yard a good bet? Or repair what I have?

Thanks for your input.


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Both can be verified in car but band requires trans to be dropped way down while still attached to motor. The driver end cover comes off.

I see one from scrapyard as a 50/50 bet. The cars also wear the end covers to make specialty issues and all will have some version of that going on too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
After some research this looks doable. Does the end cover use a gasket/seal that needs replace? RTV?
Should I get the parts from the dealer or a trans shop online?


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Your call on parts, Ford may well say NLA, they only want to sell complete transmissions.

RTV on the seal but of course the issue will be getting the flat bone dry with trans fluid dripping out of it forever.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Parts ordered.
Dealer had to order them.
I got the intermediate band, the servo/piston, and seal.

Do I need to worry about adjusting the anchor bolt?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Parts came in today and I finished installing the Intermediate band and new actuator.
Unfortunately, I find no difference.
The band and servo were still intact. Some scoring on the direct clutch drum That I was able to clean up.

I can get some firm upshifts if I am harder on the throttle.
I may look into replacing the remaining solenoids.
It's ok to drive if you are light on the throttle, but it's still not right.
Not how I want to leave it for my new, 16 yr old drivers.
 

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Well, you just fixed the most common fails. The end cover you removed can wear to lose reverse or direct clutch (3rd and 4th) so if those act up can be that common wear issue. Solenoids C and E can each affect shifting on 4 and 2 but odd to lose them. The cover wear issue can lower line pressure overall to make everything act up due to not enough pressure, maybe why you get slip at lower loads until you buzz trans harder to increase line pressure, of course, the EPC solenoid controls line pressure, maybe it has gone weak. The valve bodies can wear to make particular peculiar hydraulic issues.

Rebuild manual.............

http://shop.ukrtrans.biz/wp-content/uploads/catalogs/4F27E.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Good news.
I have firm upshifts on all gears and downshifts.
Still have some hard downshifts from 4-2.

After driving around for a day, checked the fluid level and it was a bit low. Added another quart and shifting seems much better.
Would C and D contribute to harsh 4-2 shifts occasionally?

Remember KISS(Keep It Simple Stupid).
Check your fluid level first.
 

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Not having the band adjusted correctly can by being slightly too loose. The band then loosens too early to flare up but buried in the normal rpm flareup anyway, why you don't detect it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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I made my own for maybe $3. Did you use an inch pound torque wrench to dial in the exact preload on bolt before backing it off? Critical, otherwise you get lost in stretching the band.

The E solenoid has to switch on at a drop from 4-2, that could do it maybe. Low pressure in the forward clutch which comes on going to 2nd could do it, again possibly pointing at end cover wear or worn EPC solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Following the instructions supplied with the kit, I verified servo pin travel was 1/8" when air was applied through the hole in the servo mount plate.

The kids have been driving the car as it is.
I'm pretty anal about these issues but the kids hardly notice anything abnormal.
I'm still going to keep this one on the table but it's not a priority now.

Appreciate all the help, amc49.
I'll keep this updated if I do more troubleshooting/repairs.
 
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