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hi,
my daughter bought a real peach, it's a 2003 focus 1.6 zetec auto, genuine 40,000 miles, clean as clean can be, full service history etc, but it has a gearbox problem.
fault code: PO732, incorrect gear 2 ratio. there are no other codes, everything works just dandy except we have no second gear. it doesn't work manually nor will it shift into 2nd from drive. if overdrive is switched off the car jumps from first to third and drives really nicely as it should.
reverse works fine.
i took the gearbox sump off and replaced the filter and the infamous shift solenoid "A" at the hefty ford price of £100 just for the one. the oil was in real good condition, as was the filter, but as a matter of course i dumped them for new and topped up.
i reset the codes, took it for a spin and it's no different.
the gearbox warning light comes on when the issue occurs but as soon as i turn the engine off it goes out and only returns when it tries to go in second and fails.
i decided to manually test the solenoid i took off by putting 12 volts through the body and the spade connector, absolutely nothing happened. i expected it would work the plunger if it were okay but not a thing, therefore my guess is that was faulty.
i stuck the code reader on when i went for a drive and i know that solenoid "A" is now working as i watched it switching on and off.
solenoid "B" didn't appear to do anything whilst driving forward, i kept my eye on it and it didn't move, however i know it switches on when one uses reverse so my thinking is that it is probably okay, my next task today is to confirm that by reversing up the driveway whilst monitoring the situation.

so, on to my question now the backstory is set;
if the solenoids are not at fault, what is the likely direction one should start looking from here?
I have no issue with stripping the whole box to it's last nut and bolt if necessary, i have done so on many cars and motorbikes in the past including my beloved GTO, therefore nuts and bolts instil no fear; i feel i am competent enough to deal with this, especially after finding a manual for doing so.

I just need ideas from someone that has experienced this issue previously as to which parts can cause this problem. it's the first focus i have ever worked on.
I have researched online and the best i found was "it could be internal parts..." which tells me nothing to be fair, which internal parts? i pondered, but alas found no answer.

after code reset it also came up with the code p1000 or something similar which just meant the codes had been reset and the car had not yet gone through it's full cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
update:

i took the car for another run today, according to the scan all of the solenoids are working fine with no errors occuring in them. the car still doesn't go into second, i'm thinking it is second and overdrive thats the issue so possibly a band playing up? still no other fault codes other than PO732. if anyone else has experienced this issue i would welcome some input to confirm or negate my hypothesis.
if i am correct and there is at least one other person that has experienced this issue then if i could pick your brains as to associated parts one might need on top of a new band, ie seals, gaskets, springs, rods pistons etc i would be eternally grateful.
 

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You need a working band to get 2 and 4.

Band can be cracked or broken completely or the servo to it which has some getting a loose pin in the piston to not work either.

Servo is above VB which means VB and mechanical linkage rod have to come off after pan. Note VB has 2 seals on its' top, one is to servo and that blown out could do it too but rarely.

Band harder but accessible by dropping driver end of trans way down to expose the driver end cover of trans which comes off and the band right there. Back off the external case bolt on one end of band and it comes out.

Solenoid A not even used in second at all, it is off. Sol. E is the only one on in second.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You need a working band to get 2 and 4.

Band can be cracked or broken completely or the servo to it which has some getting a loose pin in the piston to not work either.

Servo is above VB which means VB and mechanical linkage rod have to come off after pan. Note VB has 2 seals on its' top, one is to servo and that blown out could do it too but rarely.

Band harder but accessible by dropping driver end of trans way down to expose the driver end cover of trans which comes off and the band right there. Back off the external case bolt on one end of band and it comes out.
thank you for responding, seems i may be looking in the right direction then...
i guess it will be drop the pan, solenoid block then the vb next.
i did get a haynes manual because in the olden days they used to give a complete breakdown of gearbox parts. most disappointed to see "gearboxes are complex, take it to a dealer or gearbox specialist..." so that was not worth the money or effort. i have a parts diagram with key but that doesn't really show what has to come off to get to each component, it's a little bit of savvy mixed with a touch of guessing, so thanks for the heads up on the extra bits, at least i can look at my parts list and start to make sense of it that way.
are there any specific "measured points" such as critical gaps or tensions (other than the usual torque settings) than one need be aware of? such as using feeler guages to set components, setting spring tensions etc?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You need a working band to get 2 and 4.



Solenoid A not even used in second at all, it is off. Sol. E is the only one on in second.
i noticed after the fact... shows one should never trust everything you read on the internet... i'm sure i've heard that somewhere before...
it was my own stupid fault for not setting my scanner up properly when i did the first test, i merely trusted what i had read many times over. still, she has a spare solenoid "A" or "B" to put in a box for later use if need be...
 

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If the band gets changed or even the servo piston for the rod the band adjustment may need to be redone. The 'external case bolt' I mentioned to release one end of band is actually a specialty bolt that comes in more than one length (5 IIRC) determined by the number on the top of part. You can try the original bolt but if any slip occurs you may need a new one.

You can make up your own bolt there and too long to then have an oldschool band setting, it torques in to 45 inch-pounds then backs off exactly 3 1/2 turns to be correct.
 

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https://workshop-manuals.com/ford/focus_1999_08.1998-12.2004/mechanical_repairs/3_powertrain/307_automatic_transmission-transaxle/307-01_automatic_transmission-transaxle_vehicles_with_4f27e/description_and_operation/diagnosis_and_testing/general_procedures/in-vehicle_repair/removal/disassembly/disassembly_and_assembly_of_subassemblies/assembly/transaxle/

Go WAY down to step 79 there and look. Top bolt is the tool and bottom is the bolt that comes in trans. Make up a bolt like the tool with a nut and then that one part adjusts. I seal them with a copper washer, all parts begin in a well equipped hardware store. The bolt must have the end ground carefully to match the original configuration and most especially the very tip, as any sharp corner can crack end of band again. I sanded mine smooth when done.

Steps just above 79 tell you how to set it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If the band gets changed or even the servo piston for the rod the band adjustment may need to be redone. The 'external case bolt' I mentioned to release one end of band is actually a specialty bolt that comes in more than one length (5 IIRC) determined by the number on the top of part. You can try the original bolt but if any slip occurs you may need a new one.

You can make up your own bolt there and too long to then have an oldschool band setting, it torques in to 45 inch-pounds then backs off exactly 3 1/2 turns to be correct.
thank you very much, that's exactly the kind of information i'm looking for. you are a star!

i shall post upon my success or failure, you never know, there may well be someone in the same situation that could do with this kind of information too. i've spent days trawling the net for this!
 

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Higher up same web page shows the reverse of removing VB, like the manual lever shaft on step 39, the servo cover with 3 bolts is covered by it and shown in step 36.

I forgot to point out the 2 accumulator pistons that drop out when the VB is removed and shown in step 45, they and their respective springs must go back in the correct spots.
 

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Higher up same web page shows the reverse of removing VB, like the manual lever shaft on step 39, the servo cover with 3 bolts is covered by it and shown in step 36.

I forgot to point out the 2 accumulator pistons that drop out when the VB is removed and shown in step 45, they and their respective springs must go back in the correct spots.

now that is far more like the sort of information haynes used to provide. i can't seem to find anything like that in the uk. the usa seems to have many ford worshop manuals for this gearbox, but the price to post over here is quite prohibative. cut and paste seems like it might get some use sooner rather than later. thank you again, i am in your debt.
 

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that's awesome thank you. my daughter actually mailed me that link as we were conversing, seems great minds think alike. i think i'm going to have some fun chewing through that. must be my old age that i can't find stuff myself.
i love technical data like this, it makes life so much easier. mind you, only stuff that is relevant, can't say i'd be interested in the make up of a saxo gearbox right now.
anyhoo, i dither on. i really appriciate your input, seems tomorrow is going to be a fun day under the car. best wishes to you, i hope your day brings all you could wish for.
 

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Simply right click on the link and choose 'save link as' and then 'save' on the next page and the entire file (book) is yours, no cut or paste needed.

You are welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You need a working band to get 2 and 4.

Band can be cracked or broken completely or the servo to it which has some getting a loose pin in the piston to not work either.

Servo is above VB which means VB and mechanical linkage rod have to come off after pan. Note VB has 2 seals on its' top, one is to servo and that blown out could do it too but rarely.

Band harder but accessible by dropping driver end of trans way down to expose the driver end cover of trans which comes off and the band right there. Back off the external case bolt on one end of band and it comes out.

Solenoid A not even used in second at all, it is off. Sol. E is the only one on in second.
update:

well i had a fun evening pulling the gearbox apart.
i started by taking off the solenoids and vb.
it bled like a slaughtered pig. i thought there was a lot of fluid come out when i drained it to do the solenoid the other day. i got seriously concerned my bowl might not be big enough this time round.
i got off to a bit of a non starter initially. the key wouldn't open the hood, with a bit of fiddling i found there was a circlip missing and the barrel was pushing too far in.
after solving that i dropped the box down. the endplate was a bit of a pig to remove as was the cooler hose.
the band had snapped off right where it joins the metal lug. there were no missing bits so i was quite pleased with that.
new band should be here tomorrow along with some new endplate o ring seals. another £100!
i did ask about the price of the measuring bolt. £40.... so i'm not buying that, i'll make my own.
the selective bolts are also £15 each, i was thinking of getting one of each size to save time but at that price i will just get the one i need on monday.
i used to think ford was reasonable in price, i think that no longer.
tomorrow i'm thinking of dropping the servo and pin out to have a good look. it seemed fine where it was, no slop and not broken, but being this far in i don't suppose it's much more effort to check it over.

thanks for the help and data, i'd have struggled muchly without it.
 

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MAN, your parts are high there!
 

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MAN, your parts are high there!
i know, it's shocking.
i'm toying with the idea of importing a master overhaul kit from the usa once this is done and keep it on the shelf for spares. at around £200, with a bit of shipping and import duty it would be around £300 in total.
and the bits... i'd have a ton of gearbox parts to play with.
i did consider doing that this week, however the wait would have been a little prohibative. by the time it had arrived, and then the tussle with customs, who wouldn't release anything until duty has been paid, it would be a few weeks before i got the parts.
 

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update:
well i fitted the new band, when using my homemade tool to measure for the selective bolt i snapped the new band, or rather the spot welds snapped off one of the metal brackets. so annoying, i had to strip it down again. fords were pretty good, they replaced the band without any quibble. as soon as i phoned them it was in the next day.
i snapped one of the vb bolts when tightening them up. i felt a touch irritated as i don't have a stud remover. i figured it would be another £40-£50 quid for a decent one; however when i dropped the vb off the snapped bolt was quite long, i managed to get some long nose mole grips on it to undo it.
fords no longer make those bolts in the uk, although they do supply the longer ones that go through the solenoids into the gearbox. these are the same size just longer, so i bought a packet of 5 for £2.20 and cut one down to size.
when i put everything back again i didn't locate the selector pin properly, so when i put it in reverse to check it out the car drove forward and nearly went over my ramps! quite a hairy moment to say the least.
i tried to put it back into park but it jammed, so i switched off and had a little ponder among the swearing and figured it must be to do with the vb.
drain down and a little peek didn't take long to work it out.

the selective bolt i had was a no3. it was too long, so i found a perfect washer, sanded it to the right thickness as a spacer, put a little locktite on the bolt thread and saved myself an extra £15 for a new bolt. coupled with the £40 i saved making my own measuring bolt, it was a nice saving of £55 for 2 bolts!

for anyone who finds this thread looking for an answer to the same issue; online you will find people saying you need to take the front wheel off to gain access to the endplate of the gearbox, that's utter rubbish. i put the focus up on ramps and accessed it from underneath. it's not that tricky. there is plenty of room, and it's safer too.
the very top bolt is worth undoing before you drop the gearbox down, it will give you more room, then finish doing that one up last when you jack the box back into position.

i finally bolted it all back and took it for a spin, it's a very sweet little drive. i used to have a diesel version when i worked for the police, as an unmarked car. that wasn't as sweet as this petrol one by any stretch of the imagination.

so my daughter is now one very happy bunny, she's all set to be on the road on monday. we have a new set of front discs and pads arriving monday. the ones on there are okay but showing signs they need a little love, so we just ordered a complete set. may as well be safe.

so all in the car and parts have cost around £450 in total. for a car with only 40,000 miles i reckon she's got a bargin.

thank you amc 49, my daughter also passes on her gratitude for your help.
may your days be filled with splendour and your night filled with contentment.
 
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