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Discussion Starter #1
I'm just about ready to give up and take this to the professional installers, but I'll ask here in case anyone has done this before.

I just got an aftermarket head unit (Nakamichi CD-400) to replace the factory Audiophile head unit. I got the installation kit, and the proper wiring harness kit, so that I could tap into the stock wire harnesses and not hack up the wires on the car itself. Well, after wiring up the kit to the stereo's harness and plugging that into the car and firing it up for a test run, it works! It even produces sound - just not through the subwoofer, at all.

Something obviously isn't connected, but what? Has anyone replaced an Audiophile head unit but kept the stock sub? The speaker harness is accounted for, that's for the four basic speakers. It seems to be the power harness that must connect to the sub, but the wires on the car's harness plug don't match the wires on the stereo's harness plug, and the plugs only fit together one way. So how do you mate the freakin' wires and how do you tell what's what since Ford in their ultimate wisdom chose to eschew convention and not have the wires color-coded according to car audio standards??

If it helps the Nak has a separate sub output on the back, using a standard RCA connection. I'm lost and I guess I'll just have to go to an installation shop and look like a *******... [V]
 

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don't give up yet, who wants to spend money for a "professional" to do it? i am not familiar with the audiofile system but the two main things that might cause no sound form the sub would be either it's not getting a signal or it could be as simple as a remote turn-on wire. look on the old wire harness to where it connects to the new one, i've had times when there wouldn't be a wire on the new harness even though there was a wire on the old harness. make sure there is a 12v signal going to your amp when it turns on and make sure that the amp is getting a signal through rca's or whatever it uses and make sure you dind't blow a fuse or anything. good luck.

- Scott
 

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Here is the wiring pin out. Dont know if it will help :

Pin --- Color --- Stripe --- Function

Harness 1

1 --- White --- Black --- Left front +
2 --- Gray --- Black --- Left front -
3 --- White --- Purple --- Left rear +
4 --- Gray --- White --- Left rear -
5 --- White --- Red --- Right front +
6 --- Gray --- Red --- Right front -
7 --- White --- (none) --- Right rear +
8 --- Gray --- (none) --- Right rear -

Harness 2

1 --- (not used)
2 --- Black --- Green --- Radio Ground
3 --- (not used)
4 --- Orange (thin) --- Black --- Radio Illumination
5 --- Green --- Yellow --- Radio switch
6 --- Black --- Yellow --- Radio Ground
7 --- Orange (thick) --- Black --- Radio 12V

Harness 3

1 --- White --- Green --- Speed sensor
2 --- (not used)
3 --- (not used)
4 --- (not used)
5 --- (not used)
6 --- (not used)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys! Guerro that might help - my "harness #2" is different. The one you posted shows positions 1 and 3 as unoccupied but mine has a wire in the 3 position so maybe this is the wire I'm after. Now I just need free time to go out to the garage and putz around. Damn having to work on Christmas Eve... [:(!]
 

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What do you have in harness #3 ? Harness #2 position 3 may be the remote turn on for the sub amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Harness #3 appears to be the wiring for the steering wheel mounted radio controls. It's a different size and shape than the standard Ford radio connectors and the wiring is obviously a different gauge, it's considerably thinner.

Question number two - if I find the remote turn-on wire, great. But then what - which wires are sending the sub the audio signal? I had no idea I was getting myself into such a complicated maze of wiring. [rolleyes] I've done installs before, but they were on cars with very basic factory audio systems...
 

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I think on one of the harnesses there are 2 wires coming off kinda backwards and they are a size smaller maybe. I think thats them. In the rear, the signal wires are wrapped in like a foil.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Guerro can you elaborate on the wires that are "kinda backwards?" I'm a little slow but I'm starting to get this - the third harness has something to do with the amp/sub, because if I reconnect the stock head unit but DON'T plug in the third harness then the sub is dead. It doesn't look good in terms of easily figuring that part out though. I don't see any commercially available kit harnesses that match the shape of the third harness plug and if there was one I don't know where I'd be wiring those into the Nak's harness. Damn this stuff gets complicated - I've got respect for the guys who can do all this and have you out in one day. [8D]
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Okay, so, out of respect for those guys that can get you in and out in one day, I've decided to hand this over to the pro's. I went to a car stereo shop and they said that they could make it work - they hadn't done it on an Audiophile-equipped Focus but figured it could be done with a little work. So, I'm the guinea pig.

Once it's over I'll post how they did it for anyone who might want to keep their stock Ford sub but upgrade the head unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm planning on keeping that, for now anyway. Just in case I sell the car, I want to keep the Nakamichi and have something to put back in the car. Why would you want an Audiophile head unit? You can get something much better in the aftermarket. Or for that matter, on ebay you can get an Audiophile unit for pretty cheap...
 

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Well, the amp for the stock sub is on top of the sub box. Sooo, the only thing going back to the sub is a remote turn on and line level signal from the deck. If you had a multimeter you could figure out which one is the turn on by turning the HU on and off while testing the various wires. The line level leads I thought were the ones that come out backwards. Meaning, the wire goes into the harness then a second wire comes back out from the same hole. Sort of like a pig tail almost. I will try to find the pics I saw.
 

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yeah, i know i can get better aftermarket stuff, but I'm not into true audiophile car audio stuff anymore. I like how the stock HU flows with the dash and the 6 disc changer is nice too. If you decide to let it go, let me know. I can even get you my single disc HU if you really want something.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hmm... interesting. Well, I liked the sound of what the guy at the shop was saying. It was the second place I had tried, the first place stared at me like I was from outer space. This second place (Motor Music, for anyone living in the area) actually seemed like they were interested in helping me, and that it was something that could be done, so I decided to go for it.

I figured the wiring couldn't be that hard, but why are there like six or seven wires going to that sub/amb?? I don't really have the time or inclination to decipher what each one does.

Essveetee, check ebay for the HU. I know I have seen the Audiophile (or at least the non-Audiophile six-disc changer) for sale on ebay for around 100 bucks. It does have quite a bit of power for a factory head unit, and the changer is nice of course.

Here's one now:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3067010351&category=50556

Although it looks like it either has water on it or spilled soda on it. [rolleyes]
 

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Just thought I'd stick my two cents in here and ask if you figured out how to make the steering wheel controls work as well (this can be done with an adapter that makes use of the radio's (if so equipped) remote. The sub can be wired into your system by using a line-out converter I believe (converts to RCA jacks) that can be obtained in Wally World's stereo section.

-Later
 
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