[chaosreaper95]

I just bought a '03 focus SE 4dr for $500 w/ 161k miles and all it has are these three TSB's that I know of:

07-14-4 07/23/2007 Brakes - Rear Drum Brake Squealing Noise

11-3-24 03/31/2011 Engine - Vibration At Idle

04-6-1 04/05/2004 Suspension - Creak, Crunch, Grinding or Rattle Noise

I know that these are pretty common and regarding the suspension it is a rattling noise over larger bumps or really rough roads. And like the title says has anyone done all or any of these and did it fix the problem and how long has it worked for you and how difficult was it to do time-wise?

 

[sailor]

Better to list YOUR issues in the appropriate sections & ask for hints on possible repair.

TSB's are hints for fixes that are useful, passed on as hints are here, mostly for newer car issues.

First item to check on these for the front end rattle is the sway bar end links, though the entire front end should be checked out.

Small bump rattles are often end links, louder & on larger bumps ball joints, tie rod ends, strut mounts are all suspect. Any clunk on starting/stopping?

At 11 yrs. old & 161k miles anything could be worn out on a $500 car.

 

[pasta]

Vibration at idle would most likely be motor mount (passenger side. Generally they recommend suspension should be replaced at 60000 miles.rear brakes remove drum and check pads and bearing.

 

[felixthecat]

Vibration at idle would most likely be motor mount (passenger side. Generally they recommend suspension should be replaced at 60000 miles.rear brakes remove drum and check pads and bearing.

This & all above^^^^^^^

 

[chaosreaper95]

Better to list YOUR issues in the appropriate sections & ask for hints on possible repair.

TSB's are hints for fixes that are useful, passed on as hints are here, mostly for newer car issues.

First item to check on these for the front end rattle is the sway bar end links, though the entire front end should be checked out.

Small bump rattles are often end links, louder & on larger bumps ball joints, tie rod ends, strut mounts are all suspect. Any clunk on starting/stopping?

At 11 yrs. old & 161k miles anything could be worn out on a $500 car.

Those were the main issues I was just curious I am planning on replacing the brakes completely as they squeak really bad telling me I will need pads and there is no clunk that I can hear just the rattling. As far as inspection goes I was guessing the motor mounts and the stabilizer bars but wanted some input there to see if I could narrow it down if those weren't the issue there. since the engine and tranny were replaced already in this vehicle in it's condition it's worth about 1.8k in good condition on kbb but the person I bought it from wanted to get rid of it and wanted cash back on the tires since they did not need the car.

Vibration at idle would most likely be motor mount (passenger side. Generally they recommend suspension should be replaced at 60000 miles.rear brakes remove drum and check pads and bearing.

Hmmm the motor mounts for that? Did not think of that I will have to check it out and see thanks for the input there! I believe as far as suspension goes I believe it was done at scheduled maintence intervals for the suspension system since the car rides pretty smooth over bumps besides that rattling on larger bumps as stated.

 

[amc49]

Often brand new brake shoes will squeak on these. You radius the ends of brake shoe to stop it, got two that did it and I fixed and they make no noise at all for years now using same shoes. Before they would drive you crazy in slow roll traffic jams.

Remove the right angle corner where the shoe friction material ends, the right angle allows shoe to dig into drum to creep at slow roll traffic, the creep and release to creep again is what makes the noise. A high frequency squeak made there.

Don't even need to do both ends of shoe, just top of front shoe and bottom of back one.

The brake backing plates are too thin a material and magnify the squeak like a bell does.