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I have a few minor problems, maybe related, maybe not. I'll lay it all out and we'll see what y'all think.

1)Starting issue
I originally thought maybe this was fixed with the '07 reflash (I took it in with the TSB # for "prolonged start"), but I was wrong. Primarily the issue is once the car has been warmed up, i.e, a quick stop at the store. I'll come out to the car and it cranks awhile (<5 seconds) before it starts and maybe it's my imagination, but it always seems to start after I stop cranking it. It's never not started, but I'd think a car with such low mileage (under 35k) shouldn't be having problems starting. After sitting overnight it always starts up immediately.

2)"Delay" the first time I press the gas in a forward gear
This one needs some explaining, and I have to say that it's fairly consistant. Every time I start the car and back out of the spot/driveway, when I start to go forward and push on the gas, there's a definate delay from the time I push the gas and the car actually starts to go (about a second) and I can feel when it catches. It reminds me of an automatic that's going bad but obviously I don't have a slushbox. It also reminds me of a "sticky" MAF/VAF door or a crack in an intake hose. (Problems I had on my Tracer LTS) A couple times it's actually "bucked" when it's done this, once causing it to actually stall. It only does it immediately after start up. Coming from a stop sign/light doesn't have the same effect.

3)Vibration
I can't tell if it's the engine or the front suspension, I even tried killing the engine while it was doing it, but that turned out to be inconclusive. It only seems to be present while the car is warming up (first 1/8 mile or so) but it feels like there's something loose in the suspension or a tire is low. I've checked the pressure and supposedly Ford has as well and the tires are fine. The tires were brand new when I bought the car in May and there aren't any flat spots on them.

4)"Limp Mode"
I mentioned this in another thread and since the reflash it hasn't done it again, but I thought I'd mention it again in case it helps. The Ford dealer claims that the Foci don't have a "limp mode" as such, but that's what it reminds me of. I was terrorizing some on/off ramps without the TC and on both occasions the car lost all power and "knocked/vibrated" heavily, while not allowing me to accellerate over about 40MPH for about 1 mile. The CEL flashed for about 5 mins afterwards but supposedly didn't store a code. After the reflash I took the technician on a drive and tried to re-create the problem but of course it didn't act up again. I've been afraid to try to make it do it again with just me in the car. Thankfully both times it did happen I had other people in the car so at least I know I'm not going crazy.


Other than that Ms. Lincoln, how did you like the play?


Even with these minor problems I really am happy with my choice. The only other issue I have with the car is the range on the remote. It really sucks! I know it's not the remote itself because I programmed the remote to work with my car and my wife's Taurus at the same time and the range on the Taurus is about double that of the Focus. I actually found out completely by accident that you could program 2 cars to the same remote. The downside to this is that when I go to pop one trunk they both open.

BTW, this site is awesome. I visit at least twice a day from my Blackberry and I bought a couple of the stickers for my rear quarter windows.


[ffrocks] [ffrocks] [ffrocks] [ffrocks] [ffrocks] [ffrocks] [ffrocks] [ffrocks]
 

· BodyKits=PantiesDrop
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i believe i had the "limp mode" problem once, however my mom was driving and i was on an airplane when it happened and so i have no idea what really happened, it has never reoccurred for me

and the hard start issue used to happen all the time for me about 2 years ago but since my car has been out of warranty it hasn't surfaced once...
 

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Is the intake stock? There's a limp home for incipient overheating for example, and I suspect like most other cars of this ilk there's a limp home mode for at least a couple of other issues as well. Whether you were actually ever in limp home mode is questionable mind you, but it's definitely crapping out on you. Other than the long cranking issue, did these other issues exist before the ECM "reflash"? For example did you ever have the CEL before the reflash? The flashing CEL is telling you that something not good (like a misfire) had occurred. I think you need to get it back to the dealer, unfortunately.
 

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A vehicle ECM may go into Limp Home mode or Fail-safe mode due to one of several faults such as the aforementioned overheating (the Focus after a certain extended period of overheating will actually shutdown to protect the engine, if I remember correctly) or because of a sensor failure (or an "incorrect" sensor reading/signal), for example. The ECM going into the Limp Home or Fail-safe mode is done to protect the basic engine, or the engine fuel delivery and emissions system (ie. the precats/cats) from any subsequent damage that could result from "incorrect" operation of the system. I cannot speak on the Focus specifically, but my Nissan Maxima can go into Fail-safe Mode (actually there are different FS modes, depending on the fault). "Incorrect" voltages from the MAF can cause the ECM to go into a FS mode (limits RPM to 2500), so can too low or too high signals from the engine coolant sensor (on my Nissan excessively high coolant temp will cause the ECM to go to "fuel enrichment".......it doesn't have an "air cooled" mode), and a failed throttle position sensor (or incorrect readings from it) can also put the system into Fail-safe (obviously a haywire throttle position sensor could be bad for your health if the system didn't deal with it). Auto trannies can also go into Fail-safe/Limp home mode (it may simply be locked in one gear) if certain tranny faults are detected by the TCM. This is pretty standard stuff for the modern vehicles that use the digital fuel delivery and control systems that were developed about 20 years ago and have been continually improved/modified to improve performance, mileage and cut emissions.
 

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1) Suffer like the rest of us. Look up Focusin's sig, he used to have something in his sig about the "hard start" issue. I try to wait a sec before cranking, that seems to help. The only time I have the problem is when I hop in and try to start it right up. I think cars should do that, but shamefully this one doesn't act right. There was a thread about an insert that went in the hole in the throttle plate to restrict airflow, but as I remember it was very expensive.

2) Sounds like an intermittent TPS problem, but could be lots of things like the fuel sensor or the IAC. Why not try pumping the gas pedal a few times before starting the car. Maybe that will get whatever crud is off the TPS and keep the problem from happening. If it still happens, it's probably not the TPS- look elsewhere.

3) I had that for a long time. I felt it was due to warped rotors. Now I've changed my rotors, and still have some vibration. I'll know within the week if it's due to tires, balancing, or something else. My next culprit to investigate would be the strut bearings as I'm suspicious of these because they are new to me.

4) No idea, never had that happen. Hopefully it was just a programming glitch.
 

· Gal. 2:20
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2,108 Posts
As for the "hard start" I found that two things work for my 07 focus ZX3. One being that when you put the key in-and turn it just so that it doesn't start yet but the radio comes on and all the interior lights come on.....kind of like you warming up some glow plugs on a diesel..I let the car beep 4 times and then start it. so far it hasn't fixed the issue but it has helped in a sense that it doesn't happen as often as it use to. and two try to put your seat belt on before you do this I found that this helps even more for what ever reason...could just be placebo though..
 

· Proudly Daily Driven
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i know what ur talking about (i think) as far as the vibration, especially now that its getting colder around here. It seems like you said for the first 1/8 mile or so im driving over a slight bumpy road or sumthing, then it smooths out once the car gets warmer....i blame the cold theirs a lot more rattles and such now
 

· BodyKits=PantiesDrop
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A vehicle ECM may go into Limp Home mode or Fail-safe mode due to one of several faults such as the aforementioned overheating (the Focus after a certain extended period of overheating will actually shutdown to protect the engine, if I remember correctly) or because of a sensor failure (or an "incorrect" sensor reading/signal), for example. The ECM going into the Limp Home or Fail-safe mode is done to protect the basic engine, or the engine fuel delivery and emissions system (ie. the precats/cats) from any subsequent damage that could result from "incorrect" operation of the system. I cannot speak on the Focus specifically, but my Nissan Maxima can go into Fail-safe Mode (actually there are different FS modes, depending on the fault). "Incorrect" voltages from the MAF can cause the ECM to go into a FS mode (limits RPM to 2500), so can too low or too high signals from the engine coolant sensor (on my Nissan excessively high coolant temp will cause the ECM to go to "fuel enrichment".......it doesn't have an "air cooled" mode), and a failed throttle position sensor (or incorrect readings from it) can also put the system into Fail-safe (obviously a haywire throttle position sensor could be bad for your health if the system didn't deal with it). Auto trannies can also go into Fail-safe/Limp home mode (it may simply be locked in one gear) if certain tranny faults are detected by the TCM. This is pretty standard stuff for the modern vehicles that use the digital fuel delivery and control systems that were developed about 20 years ago and have been continually improved/modified to improve performance, mileage and cut emissions.

we do have the MAF sensor Fail-safe mode, if i remove my intake from the throttle body, the car will not rev past 2,000rpms and if you try it will shut off...its the weirdest feeling
 
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