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Discussion Starter #1
So the engine emissions stuff is putting oil back into the engine and coating the intercooler etc..
An air/oil separator plugged into the line takes a lot of oil out of the intake system.
Anyone here use one?
I have read a bit on other forums, some have problems mainly due to the filter plugging the system due to parts problems.. but otherwise not much info on Hey yeah great device buy one too.
They clearly remove oil from rentering the intake, and Mustang forums are full of positve comments...

Just wondering if any ST folks use them?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks.
I did try looking but clearly my search was rather flawed.

So far the JLT separator seems better than the Steeda mainly due to location. The JLT mounts in an accessable location where it can be opened to drain easy. The Steeda location (At least so far in any posts I have read) is a total PITA under the intake and i would never bother with such an inefficient system. (all Steeda would have to do is create a mount and move it over, and include the parts like hoses so no stock stuff has to be cut. ??)
Watching the CJ Ponyparts video the JLT is a breeze to install. (taking off/ ? or, just partially lifting the front of, the back cowl seems easier than taking other stuff apart.)

PS: all the CJ Pony Parts videos about the ST add ons are really interesting.

Here is the JLT oil separator CJ Pony Parts video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFiVl5GR4PA
 

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Agreed

Handy vs. total PITA is important for something you'd want to easily check/service regularly!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't have my St yet but i ordered the JLT separator from Cj PonyParts.
Now I will be able to install it the first day I have the car. (and keep the oil out if the intake from the start.)
I had free bonus cash from Cj Pony from buying my 18" Ford Racing wheels.. So I got a nice discount on the oil separator. ($35)
I am liking CJ Pony Parts!
 

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There are two locations that these catch cans tap in.

Here are the three Senario's.

A.) You dont care about them, or are against them and believe Ford's integrated system is sufficient enough - Leave it alone.

B.) You want a catch can:

B1.) Steeda, JLT, Universal Branded can - Section of the PCV system that is 'high' mounted. This works but does not catch more oil than:

B2.) JBR & Moroso - These OCC's are plumbed in after the OEM Oil Seperator system and catch the most oil before it enters the intake system. They take 3-4 hours to install and they DO have their differences. Moroso higher mounted which some think is bad (relocate?) and has a mesh media to catch the oil. (Having Mesh/Plates is almost a tested fact! As over time without a media to catch oil..the oil will get out!) JBR's is more difficult to mount as its on the rail near the transmission, yet from what I read is better located! Only concern is some say the Plates they use to catch the oil allow some to leave over time. Again just peoples opinions. Although some say its safer than mesh that can break down. (Thinking about it, how long would that actually take though? Decades? Unsure myself.)

C.) The "Best" protection for those who believe in OCC's (again still debatable if they are really needed...even after seeing what they can catch/prevent) is to do BOTH B1 & B2! Pricey, but agreed thats optimal for catching the oil!

Hope this helps! I will be going with a JBR or Moroso. They are expensive in the OCC spectrum but better than others out there!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
B2.) JBR & Moroso - These OCC's are plumbed in after the OEM Oil Seperator system and catch the most oil before it enters the intake system. They take 3-4 hours to install and they DO have their differences. Moroso higher mounted which some think is bad (relocate?) and has a mesh media to catch the oil. (Having Mesh/Plates is almost a tested fact! As over time without a media to catch oil..the oil will get out!) JBR's is more difficult to mount as its on the rail near the transmission, yet from what I read is better located! Only concern is some say the Plates they use to catch the oil allow some to leave over time. Again just peoples opinions. Although some say its safer than mesh that can break down. (Thinking about it, how long would that actually take though? Decades? Unsure myself.)

C.) The "Best" protection for those who believe in OCC's (again still debatable if they are really needed...even after seeing what they can catch/prevent) is to do BOTH B1 & B2! Pricey, but agreed thats optimal for catching the oil!QUOTE]

I will look into also adding the second one.
I may not be able to do the second one if it is too hard to install though.
 

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I will look into also adding the second one.
I may not be able to do the second one if it is too hard to install though.
Its not going to be rocket science but will require you to be comfortable enough to remove the intake manifold. You could always locate a good reputable local shop for help! Look into the Instructions for the JBR/Moroso install!

Again alot of what I mentioned is subject to opinion, but if I do a OCC install it will be the JBR/Moroso Honestly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
After reading the long number of pages about the JBR and it is a bit crazy with the labor involved.
Then I saw a pic of a Moroso right up on top (With an edge of the top engine cover cut away to allow the Moroso to sit next to the engine top.. Way better location, though Still hard to empty (f it was higher with a more precise cut to the engine cover it would sit high enough to be easy to empty ... just my two cents)

Anyway why not just cut the hose coming out of the intake runner and insert some extensions to the Oil Separator. (With screw over fasteners to keep them tight) Wherever it is. The length of the lines means nothing as long as they do not collapse.

The PCV with the JLT is long tubes with a great location for the catch can.
Now if only someone did the same for the engine top catch can.

I have a slight bit of mental challenge picturing the start finish of the two sets of lines one wants the oil separators on.
From exactly where (what part of the engine) do the line start, to exactly where are they going? [cheers]
[hah] This would help my brain.

I understand some reasons for hiding the oil separators.. but the ease of use (emptying) IMO tops all else.

Added: I can follow the instructions in the CJ Pony for installing the JLT PCV (bottom) one. easy to do, and easy to empty, and a nice job of locating it.

The other one is a PITA as shown ( the JBR) and no way would I undertake doing that one as shown.
Sort of like the Steeda PCV one, where it sits under the intake. Crazy.

Now the guy who did the Moroso at the top end of the cover.. i wish I could read more about what it took to do it. And wonder where nearby the can could be without having to do any cutting? yet still easy to empty from the top.
Anyway. my two cents.
 

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Right. The moroso one has someone mounting it with easy access. Alot of that goes on the installer - IE: Ingenuity. Not hard, but might need to fabricate a mount or something which should be easy enough. Some mention gravity with it being higher might not make it filter right, but honestly I think its better. Plus the moroso has a mesh medium to filter things out which seems more efficient. Anyhoo I had made this account/popped in to throw my opinion in for help. My ST should arrive in 2-3~ weeks so luckily I have time to get one here!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I watched some videos another site had posted discussing all the carbon buildup caused by the crud being recycled back into the engine.
Ford is even swapping heads unde warranty rather than cleaning them (apparently any 'major cleaning' will destroy the turbo, which is more $$$ than a new head?)

So the second catch can is well worth the bother.
My only question is: Does a catch can void any warranty?
Like you need a new head, and they say well you have this catch can on there so the warranty is voided.
(where the catch can is trying to save it from being damaged???)
I plan on buying the Ford 8 year warranty which would cover the head. So am I shooting myself in the foot adding this thing if it could ruin the warranty? [read]
 

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I watched some videos another site had posted discussing all the carbon buildup caused by the crud being recycled back into the engine.
Ford is even swapping heads unde warranty rather than cleaning them (apparently any 'major cleaning' will destroy the turbo, which is more $$$ than a new head?)

So the second catch can is well worth the bother.
My only question is: Does a catch can void any warranty?
Like you need a new head, and they say well you have this catch can on there so the warranty is voided.
(where the catch can is trying to save it from being damaged???)
I plan on buying the Ford 8 year warranty which would cover the head. So am I shooting myself in the foot adding this thing if it could ruin the warranty? [read]
I hope you mean 7 year on the warranty since there was no 8 year extended service contract from Ford.

Any aftermarket parts in and of themselves do not directly void warranties, but since you're tampering with the engine oiling system should you have a problem with the engine they could point to the catch can install as being the source of your problem if it's related to a lack of oil.

So far the catch can is not eliminating carbon build up either, and some people get almost no vapors (water or oil) out of the system, or very little, and others seemingly pull more fluid/ condensation from the system.

It's up to you to decide if the benefit is worth the cost/ risk v.s. reward.

If it helps to keep the valves cleaner it's a benefit.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No I did mean eight years. All the different online Ford warranty sites show the Ford plan now extends up to eight years.
I know it used to max out at seven years.. But not anymore.
 

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No I did mean eight years. All the different online Ford warranty sites show the Ford plan now extends up to eight years.
I know it used to max out at seven years.. But not anymore.
Ok, I see that now, until this year the longest was 7 years, so they figured the car would fall apart after 7 years and 1 day, now it's 8 years and 1 day on average. [dunno]

Well that or that they expect minimal pay out from the longer warranty v.s. the money it makes them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Searching Ford Parts..
The stock "PCV valve hose" (2.0 MK3) price $8.95 (6758) 'callout' Ford part number
Same part for the Ecoboost: $36.95 (6758) 'callout' Ford part number.
These are the same parts.. except the hose might be cut slightly different length !!!! this is the one in back, from case to intake tract

The price difference bugs me for the back PCV hoses. the same hose with two prices.. The Ecoboost 4 times the price???. [rant] One could buy the cheaper one to get the connectors... even if the tube was too short.

Then the "Crankcase Vent hose".. only one $21.30 (6C324) 'callout' part number
This is the one down in front from base to between the headers. This is for the regular 2.0.. No part is listed for the Ecoboost separately. So I do not know if it is different?

Buying the front "Crankcase vent hose" to use the connectors to make a long pair to go to the front catch can.... [wrenchin]
 

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Searching Ford Parts..
The stock "PCV valve hose" (2.0 MK3) price $8.95 (6758) 'callout' Ford part number
Same part for the Ecoboost: $36.95 (6758) 'callout' Ford part number.
These are the same parts.. except the hose might be cut slightly different length !!!! this is the one in back, from case to intake tract

The price difference bugs me for the back PCV hoses. the same hose with two prices.. The Ecoboost 4 times the price???. [rant] One could buy the cheaper one to get the connectors... even if the tube was too short.

Then the "Crankcase Vent hose".. only one $21.30 (6C324) 'callout' part number
This is the one down in front from base to between the headers. This is for the regular 2.0.. No part is listed for the Ecoboost separately. So I do not know if it is different?

Buying the front "Crankcase vent hose" to use the connectors to make a long pair to go to the front catch can.... [wrenchin]
Just because the base number (6758) of the service part is the same doesn't mean the parts are the same, just that they are the same kind of part. The full part number is often different.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Looking at a line drawing of the front short 'crankcase vent hose' in relation to the motor.. it would be easy to cut and add a pair of elbows then run the stuff anywhere to either side.
I would need to get my car to see where near the front one could stick a catch can which could be drained easy.

The one shown in other writeups would be fine if the bottom drain was extended down wit the valve at the end. so it would stick out enough to do from below without removing the bellypan.
(how often to drain?.. one could find out.
From many other sorts of cars some drain a pint (in Winter conditions) in a few hundred miles.


This is all interesting, and an area of emissions I never knew about.

The tough part is getting AT that entire hose.... Yikes. Without seeing anything.. would it be possible to reach the hose between the fittings? Or is it just too buried? (then no need to take off either end. just cut the middle and add the elbows with the tubing already on them to go wherever....
 

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Your warranty could be canceled for 2 reasons

1) emissions the PCV is a hugh part of the emissions

2) Engine mods this would clearly fall under you have modified the engines breathings system which effects rings , seals

I would make sure you can quickly replace it for any warranty issues , Ford is not allowed to alter or tamper with emissions and they could just close the hood and not work on it at all , I have seen this happen and all I did was remove the rear o2 sensor

Tom
 

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I guess it would depend highly on the dealer, as to if they'll attempt voiding your warranty.

So long as the PCV components are still there, I was told they won't have any issues. They, being my local Ford dealer and authorized Ford Racing Performance Part installer. They are installing a few parts for me, and know I'll be switching out the intake tube with a 3" MBRP one piece setup, as well the JCT oil catch can setup and Magnaflow 400 cell down pipe. The dealership is even letting me have a friend of mine, who's a mechanic/tech there, install everything I'm having them do/document. Kind of a win~win for me.

A few people on StL Mustangs have claimed this dealer to be pretty stand up, and if any issues arrive, they're pretty good at finding the root cause. As not to quickly pass blame to any small bolt on mod.
 

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Looking at a line drawing of the front short 'crankcase vent hose' in relation to the motor.. it would be easy to cut and add a pair of elbows then run the stuff anywhere to either side.
I would need to get my car to see where near the front one could stick a catch can which could be drained easy.
Elizabeth, in case you missed my post in the other ST thread, I will post it here. If I had seen this thread first, I would have just posted here.

The Focus ST has an oil separator already installed at the factory. It has the advantage of being self draining as it returns oil to the crankcase. If your intent is to limit carbon fouling of your intake valves, most aftermarket catch cans are worthless. They won't do anything that the factory separator isn't already doing and you will have to empty them periodically. Neither the factory separator nor the aftermarket catch cans do anything for oil vapor, the enemy of intake valves in a direct injected engine. Most of the catch cans I have seen are just under hood bling that butchers your PCV system.

If you really want to limit carbon fouling from PCV return vapor, run the lowest NOACK synthetic oil you can find.

If you are determined to run a catch can, the only one that might work against oil vapor is the Mann-Hummel Provent. Bring your checkbook, they aren't cheap. The Mann-Hummel has a filter that will have to be maintained as well.

https://www.mann-hummel.com/en/corp/products/crankcase-ventilation/

Pictured below is the Focus ST factory oil separator:

Ford Focus ST Part # AG9Z6A785A - Factory Oil Separator 2.0 LITER TURBO
 

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