Want to know if anyone bought n installed a Powerworks kit to a stock Focus(zetec)or one with minor mods(exhaust)...and wat was there results ie: performance, driveability, etc...They advertise 220 whp to a stock zetec...is this really so?
Any Powerworks Focus'es Out There?
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This week is the one year anniversary of the Powerworks kit being on my 01 ZX3. I installed the kit myself, with a brief assist from a friend when it came time to lower the blower in place (it's a bit heavy). The install is not overly difficult, and the directions are well thought out and very thorough.
My engine is stock, the exhaust is a 2.25" flexpipe and catback (the stock header and cat are still in place). I haven't had mine on a dyno, I'm not a numbers guy. However, from dyno sheets I've seen people post, 220 is pretty close to an average HP figure.
Drivability is the same as (or better than) stock, the main difference is the from the touchiness associated with the throttle body. My gas mileage has been around 25-27 in town and 30-32 on mostly highway.
Performance is exactly what can be expected from an Eaton blower. Power is immediately available at any RPM, in any gear, and the power is very linear (no low spots or hot spots). I guess I'd best describe it as feeling like you have 2 stock engines under the hood.
On very hot days (90°+) in stop and go traffic there is a bit of heat soak related drop in performance (relatively minor though). I blame this on PW's choice of air intake location and high underhood temps. This resolves itself fairly quickly once you get going. I've now chosen to use a hood that allows me to bring fresh air directly to the air intake.
I've had no problems with the PW kit. It's been as reliable as I could ask for.
If it hadn't been for the PW kit, I would have gotten rid of the Focus long ago. It turned a fun to drive but slow car, into a blast to drive quick car.
My engine is stock, the exhaust is a 2.25" flexpipe and catback (the stock header and cat are still in place). I haven't had mine on a dyno, I'm not a numbers guy. However, from dyno sheets I've seen people post, 220 is pretty close to an average HP figure.
Drivability is the same as (or better than) stock, the main difference is the from the touchiness associated with the throttle body. My gas mileage has been around 25-27 in town and 30-32 on mostly highway.
Performance is exactly what can be expected from an Eaton blower. Power is immediately available at any RPM, in any gear, and the power is very linear (no low spots or hot spots). I guess I'd best describe it as feeling like you have 2 stock engines under the hood.
On very hot days (90°+) in stop and go traffic there is a bit of heat soak related drop in performance (relatively minor though). I blame this on PW's choice of air intake location and high underhood temps. This resolves itself fairly quickly once you get going. I've now chosen to use a hood that allows me to bring fresh air directly to the air intake.
I've had no problems with the PW kit. It's been as reliable as I could ask for.
If it hadn't been for the PW kit, I would have gotten rid of the Focus long ago. It turned a fun to drive but slow car, into a blast to drive quick car.
WOW...thank u very much for that thorough info!!!...really appreciate it...i'm pretty much leaning towards the PW kit because it's Cosworth design n very thorough...btw...the driveability is not adversly affected being that with the new found performance n having the stock clutch, flywhell n open diff?
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We have several members on here with one. I have driven several of them and can agree with the above statement. Very smooth, and good quick power. It is a nice kit. The stock clutch will hold for a while if you are not a drag racer. However, if you are really hard on the car you will need an upgraded clutch eventually. You can install and drive it on the stock clutch, however.
To be completely honest, I'm mildly concerned about my clutch. I haven't had any problems with it, yet... but I've gone relatively easy on it as well (no drag launches). But, no slippage to date. (fingers crossed)
As far as using the stock diff. Yeah it has it's problems. Wheelspin is very easy to come by, but the linear power curve of the PowerWorks lets you adapt fairly well. There are no sudden spikes in power that break the tires loose. The power is strong and consistent. You can easily adjust your throttle to maintain decent traction. Of course doing that isn't going to be near as fast as if you could just stand on the throttle.
I fully intend to replace the stock clutch and also go to a Torsen differential when I get some time to do the install. But for now, I'm getting by ok on the stock parts.
If you've got the cash and time for the install of a clutch and differential I'd do it. If not, I think you'll get along fine for quite a while.
As far as using the stock diff. Yeah it has it's problems. Wheelspin is very easy to come by, but the linear power curve of the PowerWorks lets you adapt fairly well. There are no sudden spikes in power that break the tires loose. The power is strong and consistent. You can easily adjust your throttle to maintain decent traction. Of course doing that isn't going to be near as fast as if you could just stand on the throttle.
I fully intend to replace the stock clutch and also go to a Torsen differential when I get some time to do the install. But for now, I'm getting by ok on the stock parts.
If you've got the cash and time for the install of a clutch and differential I'd do it. If not, I think you'll get along fine for quite a while.
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6,891 Posts
Just an FYI-
The stock MTX-75 tranny is rated at 165TQ at the clutch/flywheel.
Not sure of the tolorance of how much you can exceed it but anything above that you can bet puts more than normal wear on the tranny components.
The stock MTX-75 tranny is rated at 165TQ at the clutch/flywheel.
Not sure of the tolorance of how much you can exceed it but anything above that you can bet puts more than normal wear on the tranny components.
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456 Posts
We have had no tranny issues in any of our cars.
The white car is putting down ~ 280 WHP/210 WTQ (w/Quaife) and the trans is holding up fine. The white car also has the FRPP Centerforce clutch.
The black SVT has a Quaife and the Ford TSB clutch.
All of our other cars are running on stock transmissions (no LSDs). FRPP Centerforce clutches work well on the MTXs and we have been happy with the Ford TSB clutches in the SVTs. All of are cars can be considered heavily beat-on by not only us, but the myriad of people we let drive them at ride/drive events.
The white car is putting down ~ 280 WHP/210 WTQ (w/Quaife) and the trans is holding up fine. The white car also has the FRPP Centerforce clutch.
The black SVT has a Quaife and the Ford TSB clutch.
All of our other cars are running on stock transmissions (no LSDs). FRPP Centerforce clutches work well on the MTXs and we have been happy with the Ford TSB clutches in the SVTs. All of are cars can be considered heavily beat-on by not only us, but the myriad of people we let drive them at ride/drive events.
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That's good to hear/know.COSDEVSVT said:
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108 Posts
I blew a stock tranny up after 1 day of having my car turbocharged. I got another stock tranny and put a quaife in it. Was hard on that thing for a good 8 months, and just banged thru gears making like 300 whp, my motor blew up and the tranny is still goin strong hehe.
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8 Posts
Just installed the powerworks supercharger this week. Have been driving it yesterday and today...it's freaking awesome! I can definately tell that I will need to upgrade the clutch, but everyone's right if you go easy on it it's ok. Now, here's my problem:
The Stock engine temp. gauge isn't working while I'm driving the car. I know the sensor is good and all the wires are plugged in because the gaige works in auxillary(key turned with accessories, but not engine running). I called Cosworth Technology (powerworks division), they were the one's who tuned the ecm. So, they told me to check my grounds and the sensor, I told them the sensor is ok. I checked and re-did all grounds, but it didn't fix the problem. We think that they may have accidentally messed up the program when flashing the ecm. Anyone else had this issue, and any suggestions? I will call Cosworth again Monday. It'd be nice if I could figure it out sooner. I know that it's nothing we did because we re-checked all our connections...they're all good.
The Stock engine temp. gauge isn't working while I'm driving the car. I know the sensor is good and all the wires are plugged in because the gaige works in auxillary(key turned with accessories, but not engine running). I called Cosworth Technology (powerworks division), they were the one's who tuned the ecm. So, they told me to check my grounds and the sensor, I told them the sensor is ok. I checked and re-did all grounds, but it didn't fix the problem. We think that they may have accidentally messed up the program when flashing the ecm. Anyone else had this issue, and any suggestions? I will call Cosworth again Monday. It'd be nice if I could figure it out sooner. I know that it's nothing we did because we re-checked all our connections...they're all good.
Safety wins out over big numbers. At least in my case. The dyno may be part of the number seeming low. If anyone were to drive my car, they would not be disapointed. Each car is different. Each car requires dyno time to get the max out of it, and be safe. At this time, this is still the family car, so I'm not in much of a hurry to tune every drop of power out of it. I'm lucky that my wife let's me out on the track as it is.[
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