Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
240 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
iam just wondering were can i find a hole or something were a 4ga wire will fit in the firewall

here is my setup!
Kicker 400.1 amp 400rms
kicker 12" cvr 400rms
4ga wire pos an neg got the rest of wires.
Hu Jvc kd-sh 1000
And for box iam goin to use the stock box that comes with SVT'S what you guys think?

You guys think that the stock box would sound good?
Iam trying to hide all my setup so if the stock box dont work ill prob build a box!

Thnks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
714 Posts
your gonna have to drill a hole in the firewall to run the wire
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,316 Posts
thats seems to be alot harder than it sould be. in your svt follow the hood latch opener from inside your car. (its under the steering wheel). now if you follow that wire into you engine compartment you will notice that the wire is alot smaller that whole for it in your fire wall. all i did was get a decently big flat head screw driver and guage the whole out a little. i had not a problem in world fitting the 4 guage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
This site is killing me, i FOUND such a simple solution to the power cable problem and it took me all of 10mins. ALL you have to do is run the cable where the factory wires come in from the main fuse box under the hood. It will require removing the drivers side inner fender well..Once you do you will see where the harness goes in and thre is a spot right above or below to drill a hole and install a gromet...DONE... Take a peak inside the car, look under the dash and up...you'll see the factory harness right behind the interior fuse box!!!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
240 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
thats what i though about drilling a hole to the fire wall well thanks alot guys!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
621 Posts
ok first, theres a lot of wiring difference under the dash between a fully loaded SVT and an SE. there isn't anywhere near enough clearance in the firewall on the SVT for 4ga leads. you have (at least) two options, both being pretty decent.

the first and most obvious being drill a new hole in the firewall, and don't forget to use a grommet.

the second, for those less handy with a powerdrill, is to run it on the driver side behind the kickplate under the fuse panel, and back a bit. theres a hole in the interior back there, that jogs over a little bit in the doorwell to a blank grommet just under the wiring harness going through to the driver side door. if you run it from there through the fender, it lazilly clears any danger or rubbing, crimping, or other damage when opening or closing the door and pops out right near the battery. keep in mind that running it through the fender can be somewhat tricky, and the wiring will be more exposed to the elements - theres your disclaimer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
240 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
ill just drill a hole i done that to one of my cars and it was rubbing agaisnt metal and sparking so i took it off...anyways would the sub work for the stock box of a svt?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
621 Posts
RocSVT said:
[...]anyways would the sub work for the stock box of a svt?
i'm not totally clear on what youre asking here, but heres some info that'll likely help
a tech told me the stock amp probably pushes about 50W. I have no idea what the speaker itself can handle, but i'd be willing to venture a guess of atound 75W rms and 150W peak. the stock setup actually sounds really nice and gets stunningly low freq response for an 8" fixture. the power running to these will not be sufficient for running any auxiliary systems.
when my auxiliary speaker system was installed, we ultimately settled on drilling a hole through the firewall for the 4ga hot, and used the rear seat mounts for the grounds. you'll probably want to do some thinking on how you implement the remote wire for the amp. on mine when I close the doors, the cabin pressure reverberates through the entire system with the radio off and the key on, effectively using the door speakers as microphones. (i plan on installing a kill switch somewhere for mine)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
240 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
i am trying to say that if the svt box will sound good with the 12 in there? i know i have to do some cuttin but if it sounds good it will be worth it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
316 Posts
DarwinSays said:
i'm not totally clear on what youre asking here, but heres some info that'll likely help
a tech told me the stock amp probably pushes about 50W. I have no idea what the speaker itself can handle, but i'd be willing to venture a guess of atound 75W rms and 150W peak. the stock setup actually sounds really nice and gets stunnign low freq response for an 8" fixture. the power running to these will not be sufficient for running any auxiliary systems.
when my auxiliary speaker system was installed, we ultimately settled on drilling a hole through the firewall for the 4ga hot, and used the rear seat mounts for the grounds. you'll probably want to do some thinking on how you implement the remote wire for the amp. on mine when I close the doors, the cabin pressure reverberates through the entire system with the radio off and the key on, effectively using the door speakers as microphones. (i plan on installing a kill switch somewhere for mine)
uh i wouldn't say the stock 8 get stunningly low.. the stock systems is Xover high IMO.. there are notes that it just doesn't even play..when i first got my car i put in some material that i was used to playing on in my old car...and the really low notes are non-existent.. stock sub seems more like midbass to me... stock deck also seemed to attenuate the bass as the volume increases...

at least thats how the Sony audiophile in my 06 is..not for long though... upgrade bishes ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
621 Posts
RocSVT said:
i am trying to say that if the svt box will sound good with the 12 in there? i know i have to do some cuttin but if it sounds good it will be worth it.
If youre talking about cutting the hole larger to fit a 12" sub, then - No -
You can do it, but theres a good chance it'll end up sounding bad, since the box is tuned for an 8" sub with totally different displacement specs than a 12" sub.

if you want to put a 12" sub in the same space the SVT box uses, and maybe even be able to use the SVT sub unit cover.

http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/enclosures/thunderform.cfm
complete with a 12" speaker tuned to the enclosure, and you can't really go wrong with MTX
if you look hard enough i'm sure you can probably find a 12" tuned enclosure w/o speaker

if someone can confirm whether or not the MTX unit fits behind the same SVT panel cover, that'd be great.

another route you might want to consider is getting an upgraded 8" speaker for the same enclosure. theyre a little hard to find (but i'm pretty sure MTX has a few), and the freq tuning on the SVT box might not be the same, but if youre looking to cut corners, this will probably be the happiest compromise without throwing the enclosure / speaker tuning way out of proportion.

additionally, make sure you mat all the mounts for either of the enclosures, as theyre prone to squeaking and rattling once they break in/settle.


good luck! =)

-Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
621 Posts
faulkton said:
uh i wouldn't say the stock 8 get stunningly low.. the stock systems is Xover high IMO.. there are notes that it just doesn't even play..when i first got my car i put in some material that i was used to playing on in my old car...and the really low notes are non-existent.. stock sub seems more like midbass to me... stock deck also seemed to attenuate the bass as the volume increases...

at least thats how the Sony audiophile in my 06 is..not for long though... upgrade bishes ;)
well i've heard plenty of 8"s, and plenty of 10"s, and IMO the 8" on the 04 SVT sounds great for what it is, though not as loud as most aftermarket systems. but no, don't expect to rattle the car when you pop your comp cd in and hit the 20Hz range...nicely tuned enclosure or not, its still only an 8" speaker pushed by ~50W.

next time you have some free time (and my intention here is not to come off as snide or rude), do some online research in soundwave theory for mobile audio systems - specifically WHY we need amps to match the audible volume of low bass to even stock door speaker ranges, and itll put the matter in perspective. hear it or not, the 8"sub/enclosure gets very appreciable response in the lower bass ranges.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
240 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
yeah the 8 sounds pretty darn good but iam looking for a little more bump well iam goin to try to fit the 12" sub in there cuz the sub that mtx sells is prob for the regular focus only? am goin to take the whole box out of my focus to see if i can build a wood one i dought it though so ill prob cut the plastic box to fit the sub in there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
621 Posts
the kit that mtx sells would serve as a replacement for both the speaker, and enclosure (amp optional) if you already have an svt enclosure installed, otherwise it would be a new install on a regular focus
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
316 Posts
DarwinSays said:
well i've heard plenty of 8"s, and plenty of 10"s, and IMO the 8" on the 04 SVT sounds great for what it is, though not as loud as most aftermarket systems. but no, don't expect to rattle the car when you pop your comp cd in and hit the 20Hz range...nicely tuned enclosure or not, its still only an 8" speaker pushed by ~50W.

next time you have some free time (and my intention here is not to come off as snide or rude), do some online research in soundwave theory for mobile audio systems - specifically WHY we need amps to match the audible volume of low bass to even stock door speaker ranges, and itll put the matter in perspective. hear it or not, the 8"sub/enclosure gets very appreciable response in the lower bass ranges.
I'm not saying the factory system sounds bad... that it doesn't hit the low low notes at all. I mean listen to like young jeezy - soul survivor.... that note cracked in my old car... 15" rlp @ 28 hz.. and its like not even there in my focus...it sounds like someone hitting a cardboard box..or listening to it on a laptop..

And why do you keep saying nicely tuned enclosure.. i didn't think the stock box was tuned at all.. just IB or sealed.. if i am wrong...where are the ports/vent and what is it tuned to?

I have nothing against 8"s they can get low.. I bought a Rli 8" to replalce the factory one..i just have to get everything installed.

no attitude implied. Just opinion and question.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
621 Posts
by tuned I mean the resonance tuning of the enclosure. when ford (or whoever) designed those, they have a team that runs the math for harmonic resonance of the enclosure with that speaker. its not anything-that-can-be-adjusted-tuned, just the way its designed. again, some study time spent toward sound wave theory will shed a lot of light on the matter of enclosures and speakers. if you wonder why anyone would ever go through the trouble of building their own box, thats where you'd find your answer.

heres a fun little story that still gets a couple chuckles once in a while.
my first system ever ('96) was a single 12" sub that I bought from meijer (a department store, for those not acquainted - anything but pro audio) that handled 250W pk. the cardboard box that the speaker came in had a perforated hole you could punch out for a temporary box - this isn't relevant but an interesting note. when i got the speaker home, I pulled out my sound theory book, which only consisted of maybe 150pgs - a short and very worthwhile read - and built my own box from scratch. every speaker size (8/10/12/15/etc) has its own basic resonance requirements, and the book i had outlined these specifics. most enclosures don't use a full-wavelength resonance tune (as these enclosures would be much larger). I decided to go with the larger box w/o ports for my single 12" sub (3.something cu ft) and when I finished it and took it for a spin, I found myself sitting in a parking lot next to someone with twin kickers, who heard my setup and thought I was running a powered 15" sub (the 12" was still going off of my stock '86 merc. topaz HU). when I showed him what speaker and enclosure was being used, he was awe struck. and asked if i'd build him a custom box. it was enough of a pain building my own, so I declined, however.
=p

because I used a less *harmonically* resonated box, I had fewer dips in response (the more you reduce the size of a box, the, more response gaps you'll get, and the less room for error there is in the cu ft resonance specs), and a much cleaner sound off of what was really just a throw-away speaker. if i had done the same thing to a single kicker comp with amp, I woulda blown the guy with twins right out of the water.

just a little example of what some study time in sound theory has to offer. and also why I'm trying to tell Roc here not to cut that 8" enclosure hole to fit a 12". basically going to ruin the box, because the 12" has different cu ft req's than an 8", and he'll probably get very poor resonance points, not to mention a decent bit of distortion. by that point he wont have to worry about hiding it so it's not stolen, because it will likely end up sounding like a chitty speaker/amp when he's actually got some decent equipment to work with. I could be totally wrong on the resonance though - he could get incredibly lucky and it might sound halfway decent after he's done, but IMO its a waste of both the 8" sub, and the enclosure it used to fit in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
316 Posts
DarwinSays said:
by tuned I mean the resonance tuning of the enclosure. when ford (or whoever) designed those, they have a team that runs the math for harmonic resonance of the enclosure with that speaker. its not anything-that-can-be-adjusted-tuned, just the way its designed. again, some study time spent toward sound wave theory will shed a lot of light on the matter of enclosures and speakers. if you wonder why anyone would ever go through the trouble of building their own box, thats where you'd find your answer.

heres a fun little story that still gets a couple chuckles once in a while.
my first system ever ('96) was a single 12" sub that I bought from meijer (a department store, for those not acquainted - anything but pro audio) that handled 250W pk. the cardboard box that the speaker came in had a perforated hole you could punch out for a temporary box - this isn't relevant but an interesting note. when i got the speaker home, I pulled out my sound theory book, which only consisted of maybe 150pgs - a short and very worthwhile read - and built my own box from scratch. every speaker size (8/10/12/15/etc) has its own basic resonance requirements, and the book i had outlined these specifics. most enclosures don't use a full-wavelength resonance tune (as these enclosures would be much larger). I decided to go with the larger box w/o ports for my single 12" sub (3.something cu ft) and when I finished it and took it for a spin, I found myself sitting in a parking lot next to someone with twin kickers, who heard my setup and thought I was running a powered 15" sub (the 12" was still going off of my stock '86 merc. topaz HU). when I showed him what speaker and enclosure was being used, he was awe struck. and asked if i'd build him a custom box. it was enough of a pain building my own, so I declined, however.
=p

because I used a less *harmonically* resonated box, I had fewer dips in response (the more you reduce the size of a box, the, more response gaps you'll get, and the less room for error there is in the cu ft resonance specs), and a much cleaner sound off of what was really just a throw-away speaker. if i had done the same thing to a single kicker comp with amp, I woulda blown the guy with twins right out of the water.

just a little example of what some study time in sound theory has to offer. and also why I'm trying to tell Roc here not to cut that 8" enclosure hole to fit a 12". basically going to ruin the box, because the 12" has different cu ft req's than an 8", and he'll probably get very poor resonance points, not to mention a decent bit of distortion. by that point he wont have to worry about hiding it so it's not stolen, because it will likely end up sounding like a chitty speaker/amp when he's actually got some decent equipment to work with. I could be totally wrong on the resonance though - he could get incredibly lucky and it might sound halfway decent after he's done, but IMO its a waste of both the 8" sub, and the enclosure it used to fit in.
I would be more likely to ask why anyone wouldn't go through the trouble of building a box to spec, than why they would. However, for this install, i decided to just find a sub with recommended CF close to the CF in the stock sub box. The one thing that sort of worries me is flexing.. if the box cant handle it... i will just build a small vented enclosure.. but i would rather keep the hatchback free and lose a little output going sealed.

are you trying to say that speakers each have certain cubic foot requirements to achieve desired frequency response, or output peak? If so your explanation sounds overly complicated.

Or are you talking about tuning of a vented or ported enclosure? Maybe I'm wrong but i thought the stock 8" enclosure was supposed to be sealed... if its not where is the port/vent and what is it tuned to?

Got a link to what you are trying to convey?


.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
621 Posts
spec cu ft still uses a fractional wavelength resonance in most cases

i would think the plastic used for the enclosures would be able to handle up to 500W - but thats just a guess

yes, speakers each have cu ft req's that need to be met in order to achieve freq response and ideal outputs, but theres more to it than that.

not talking about tuning a port vent. you actually lose resonance by using ports.

the SVT enclosure is sealed, but it still has a resonant freq tuning which is purely based off of the mass of air inside.

the entire concept falls under the category of physics, which if youre not proficient, may not make a lot a sense...mostly why i tried to put it in lamans

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resonance_chamber
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fundamental_frequency
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sympathetic_vibration
http://www.physics.umd.edu/lecdem/misc/phys102/PH102chap03.ppt
http://www.diysubwoofers.org/sbc/sbc2.htm

and just for giggles...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brown_note

I couldn't find a link offhand that discussed specifically the dynamics of sound wave enclosures, resonance, resonant cancellation, etc. and I'm not really in the mood to go looking for it. part of why i said do the research in your own free time - youre bound to come across one such article eventually. I took classes on this stuff years ago...its been a great help to me, since I'm a pretty big audiophile. if I were a little more ambitious about such a project and had the time, i'd get the interior space dimentions of the focuses and develop THE aftermarket audio systems for them based of the resonant properties of the cars cabin area, make mad monies, and go get a tan somewhere. but nah, instead i'm taking summer classes. *shrug* degrees don't finish themselves...at least not until i built my evil robot army. hah.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top