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Discussion Starter #1
ok so i already have every inch of the trunk covered in dynamat extreme and two layers on the lid and back sides. Im upgrading my system again this weekend because i miss sick bass haha. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated! its a 2010 sedan. Thanks Guys!
 

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Vince your Moderator
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Use a rubber mat underneath your box(the softer the better)to decouple your box from the body of the car. Is the box rear or, front facing?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah i have been thinking about the sound deadening mats. and i have tried setups facing both ways. in know that it will have more bass and better sound when facing the rear but less rattles when facing the cabin. there is no subs in the car yet. i sold all my other stuff including my 2 JL 12w6v2 subs and JL 1000/1v2 jl amp. i just got my alpine pdx-m6 in the mail today(= its all digital so wont even phase my electrical system. check it out on crutchfield.com. and as for subs im still trying to figure out what i want to go with.
 

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Da fofo love remains
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I agree with freemind...Never would have thought that rattling would still be an issue after multi-layers of dynomat or equivalent....go figure...
 

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trunk aint the only thing rattling. the doors and roof do, doors more then roof and front half of roof more then back half.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i found a new rattle point. the damn taillights! here is the trunk






 

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Obviously there is no way to stop every rattle on your car if you have a powerful system. Sound dampening will help but is no cure. I would suggest getting a thicker type of dampening and going over your dynamat.

If your subs are facing the opening of your trunk, then you will pretty much have to just deal with it unless you do some serious work like welding.

My sub is facing the inside of the car sealed from the trunk, and my trunk doesn't hardly make any noise since it's seperate air space. My doors and windshield have severe flex issues though lol. No stopping that.
 

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lol yeah im about to face mine in cabin
If you do that, make sure you seal it off from the trunk, otherwise it won't be nearly as loud as it could be. You don't want the waves to go behind the box and cancel out. I've tried with a prefab box to just face them foward and no work at all sealing it off so it was just sitting there facing foward, and it sounded like complete garbage lol. It wasn't even that loud at all either since everything was getting cancelled out in the trunk area.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yeah i have also tried that in the past haha. i will prob have a custom box built to the specs of the subs the is angled at the angle of our opening then seal the edges and have a nice thick rubbing bass mat under the box. it should look pretty clean also if i do like i was going to do last fall. a local shop was going to do my box angles like this with the subs firing in cabin then sealed from the trunk, port in the middle of the two subs and then have the subs recessed about an inch on the mounting area(= gives everything a real flush sit on the trunk area then you dont have to worry about the subs rubbing the seat or in my case the amp on the back of the seat.
 

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yeah i have also tried that in the past haha. i will prob have a custom box built to the specs of the subs the is angled at the angle of our opening then seal the edges and have a nice thick rubbing bass mat under the box. it should look pretty clean also if i do like i was going to do last fall. a local shop was going to do my box angles like this with the subs firing in cabin then sealed from the trunk, port in the middle of the two subs and then have the subs recessed about an inch on the mounting area(= gives everything a real flush sit on the trunk area then you dont have to worry about the subs rubbing the seat or in my case the amp on the back of the seat.
I can post a picture of the way my box looks flush in my '11? Also, it would be better if you put the port on the driver's side and have both subs next to each other on the other side. This would help if you ever decide to meter it, and may seem louder in some cases.

 

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Also, if I ever need to get to my spare tire, I can remove my back seats and the box can slide foward. It takes up my entire trunk for this beast! lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok so here is what ive bought this week lol its not a rediculous bass setup but i guess to some on here its crazy bass. I got two brand new in the box new model kicker cvr 12's(not the cheap silver one) for a steal! Ive never been a big fan on kicker but lets just say i couldnt pass up the price on these. still new in the retail boxes they just would not fit under the guys back seat. they are 132.99 at the cheapest online everywhere ive looked. he aid $340 after tax at best buy where they are 149 each and he got the extended warranty. I paid $140(= Yes for BOTH! THen i got a superbass probox(didnt feel like having a custom box built yet) got a steal on it also for $60 bucks! Even the amp i got a steal on and its a beast! its alpines new digital line that doesnt even hardly show up on your cars electrical system! the lights dont dim when i have fogs on, brights on, and the bass slamming! It costs $499 on crutchfield(= i got it on a last minute auction on ebay brand new for $200!!!! Here is what the temp install looks like. even though its facing in cabin where the waves dont catch the edges of the trunk or anything my spoiler/wing on my trunk lid looks like its flapping haha pics:




 

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nice, clean looking. block the trunk of from the cabin with a board so that the extra space back there doesnt muffle the sound.
 

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good, it will help.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
actually as much as i hate rattles the sq and output of subs sounds so much better when fired off of the back wall of the trunk.... so i just ordered some more sound deadener and im going to do 3 layers on the whole trunk. maybe 4 on the lid and rear wall(=
 

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actually as much as i hate rattles the sq and output of subs sounds so much better when fired off of the back wall of the trunk.... so i just ordered some more sound deadener and im going to do 3 layers on the whole trunk. maybe 4 on the lid and rear wall(=
Just do the cutout for the front of the box, and seal the entire rear lid from the trunk as well. It takes work, but that is why the output and sq of the subs sound like crap to you right now.

If you do it right, it will have a lot better output and sound amazing. Plus not as many issues with the trunk. Don't waste the money on sound deadening the trunk with so many layers, just use it to seal off the cabin of the car from the trunk and you will be much more pleased with the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
even with the ported box? i can understand sealed but ported will improve?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
anyone have a suggestion where to get a rubber mat to go under the box? maybe even the whole mid straight part of the trunk? thick and soft please
 
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