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Hey everyone, PapaAcer here, going at it for another write-up! Today's writeup is brought to you by KFC: Have it your way! ;) This is not a pro job, and I know some will criticize some of my practices. But, I feel I did a very good job. Fair warning, you do have to tap into your stock wires to do this. If you are truly committed, it can be a job well done. To begin this write-up, let me go through a few things you need:
Clarion XC1410



12 Gauge Wire
18 Gauge Wire
10MM Deep Socket with Ratchet
Torx Bits, Phillips Screw Driver (I had a set with all these bits)
Butt Connector (Or A soldering iron)
Wire Splitters/Cutters (I used a self-adjusting one)
Electrical tape (Or heat shrink)
Multimeter
Optional (wire loom)

First off, you need to remove your center console completely, that's where the 10mm socket and Screw Driver bits come into play. You can use the threads below for help on removing the center console.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=273852

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259777

Next, you need to get power going to the amplifier. I used the 12 Gauge wire to run the power to the battery.



I found a ground right in the center (I made sure it was sanded)



Make sure you have 12 volts going to the amp by using your multimeter to measure.

Then, you will see the speaker wiring on the passenger foot-well.



You will want to cut the following wires at a good spot so that you can add wire to it:
Power Antenna YELLOW/ORANGE (+)
Left Front + WHITE
Left Front - WHITE/BROWN
Right Front + WHITE/PURPLE
Right Front - WHITE/ORANGE
Left Rear + BROWN/GREEN out of the HU, WHITE/GREEN back to the speaker (color changes at this connector)
Left Rear - BROWN/YELLOW
Right Rear + BROWN/WHITE
Right Rear - BROWN/BLUE

For my amplifier the wiring went as so:

Left Front +: WHITE
Left Front -: WHITE/BLACK
Right Front +: GRAY
Right Front -: GRAY/BLACK
Left Rear +: GREEN
Left Rear-: GREEN/BLACK
Right Rear +: PURPLE
Right Rear -: PURPLE/BLACK
Antenna: BLUE

Use the 12 gauge wire to connect the speaker wires to the input and outout wires from amp. Cut to necessary lengths depending on placement. The wires coming from up top, they are connected to the speaker input wires. Those wires come from the radio. The wires that go down into the connector are connected the the speaker output wires. Make sure you match them up correctly. Also, the Antenna wire from the amp only needs to be spliced in, so if you cut the stock wire, make sure you connect it back together with blue antenna wire spliced in. All other stock speaker wires will be separated. I actually disconnected the connector so that I can easily solder the wires. Also, test in DCV for 4.95 or so volts at each wire to make sure there is current.

Here are the wires that go into the speaker output:



And here are the wires that go to the amp's speaker input:



They come from these top wires as so (crappy picture but you get the idea):



Finally, clean it up by taping the wires up, and make the job a clean and stealthy install. I used my electrical tape, but obviously there are way better means, but the install came out how I wanted.




I actually adjusted the sound when everything was torn apart. You get the options for 90hz, 60hz, and flat crossovers. You can also change the input sensitivity between high and low. Overall, this amp supplies WAY more than enough power for this type of install. I have cheapo Scosche HD speakers from Wal-Mart [boxface] up front, and stockers in the rear. So, to take full advantage, I will most likely upgrade to high quality speakers. Thanks for tuning in, and hope you learned a lot from this write-up! [read]
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nice write up Jose! I need to get me one of those
Thanks Ray! I highly recommend this amplifier for our stock head unit. It definitely delivers the power. [strongman]
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wow! Nice job. That amp is on Amazon this morning "$89.95 Amazon Prime". That is a helluva lotta power for under $100.
Definitely a great price! I got mine for Christmas, from my awesome girlfriend. So idk how much it was for mine [neener]
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Stock speakers will not handle the extra power for that long. I highly suggest upgrading to aftermarket
 

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This is exactly what I was looking for. I got a LOC to hook up an amp for subs. Good write up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks man!
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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Discussion Starter #16
Should make it another day project and solder those suckers. Get high off the lead fumes man it's the best. Haha
Waiiit so you think they aren't soldered?? They are. I'm confused LOL [???:)] I did solder them (so HIGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH), but I was told after I did the install that crimp connectors are best. The amplifier still sounds amazing though, but I need some really good speakers to compliment them :O
 

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Waiiit so you think they aren't soldered?? They are. I'm confused LOL [???:)] I did solder them (so HIGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH), but I was told after I did the install that crimp connectors are best. The amplifier still sounds amazing though, but I need some really good speakers to compliment them :O
i always was told solder was best every where except engine compartment.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah I'm so confused, but they are soldered though. So they are pretty secure and solid.
 

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Beat crimper you can buy is a Weller (soldering iron).
 
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