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WRX/Focus:)
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I was coming home, and about five miles from my house my newly build Zetec engine started to get hot, like almost near the red, but I was able to get it home without it hitting the red.

Now when I got home I opened the hood and the overflow tank was filling up and bubbling? But as I said this is a newly built engine, so the thermostat is new, the gaskets, the head gasket, and everything. The only thing I could think of is the water pump?

The fans run fine, I hear them come on like they are sopose to, but why would the engine push the coolant back into the overflow tank, if the car is off? I know it was hot cause it was bubbling, but what would make it push back?

And I'd like to add that I took it for a short ride once it cooled to normal, and I notice it only gets hot when I slow down, or stop.

Water pump??? Or the worse case scenario for me...... Head gasket?

Thanks guys, FF rocks.

Djzx3
 

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C2H5OH
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11,867 Posts
Flush the cooling system.
Odds are the radiator is chocked full of crap and restricted.
 

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Premium Member
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21,250 Posts
I would hope that the water pump was new also. However, some of those places that rebuild engines don't spend money on anything more than they have to. I've found grease blobs under paint on Jasper engines making me wonder if they did anything more than pass a running used engine off as rebuilt.

I'd go with what Iminhell wrote. BTW, since the coolant only gets hot when you slow down- have you verified that the fans work?

No flush is complete IMO without running the vehicle around with straight water in it for a bit then draining it. I have run a mix of mineral spirits and water, but that needs to be done quickly- like only run the engine for 15 mins or so with that mix because the mineral spirits can break things loose that you don't want broken loose. I wouldn't leave it in there for more than an hour, although I've never had any problems associated with using it where something happened that I didn't expect or could pin on running that mix through. It did bring out more rust.

Y'know, new engine and all, FYI: find a good local radiator shop that has a good product and get a new radiator and overflow cap when replacing an engine. That prevents odd issues like this, and you can point the finger directly at what it should be. If you had a head gasket leak you'd either loose coolant through the cylinder head, or it would overheat so quickly that you'd know immediately what it was.
 

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WRX/Focus:)
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4,940 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Well for one the water pump from what I know is the original with 160k on it, when "I" rebuilt the engine, I just honed the cylinders, and put in newer pistons,rings,pins,rods, and bearings, and then put it all back together with new gaskets, and a couple of other things, like the thermostat, ignition coil, plugs(Autolite) and wires.

And yes I heard the fans working, I hear them come on when it got a little over normal, and then heard them really kick on when it got hotter.

EDIT: And I do not believe there is a leak, when I first got home and opened the hood, I took the cap to the resivor off, and I heard it release the pressure, so I put it back on, and came out like 5 mins later, and I heard it release pressure again when I took the cap off again.
 

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Hatch Nation #136
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Was the cooling system fully bled? You may have had air pockets trapped that let your coolant boil.
 

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WRX/Focus:)
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Discussion Starter #6
I know its not the fans, and yes I did the cooling system right. I'm pretty sure it's the water pump.

Right now I plan to change the water pump, and while I'm at it check the thermostat, and then flush the system, then I'm due for the 500 mile oil change, so I'll do that too, but I was thinking while I'm doing all this, why don't I take the valve cover off and tighten the head bolts?

The only question about all this^ is, About the head bolts? They are also brand new from when I rebuilt the engine, so I could have sworn I read somewhere that after 500 miles, those should be tightened too, due to stretching? And if so, how much?
 

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DTC P0606
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Usually when you re-torque the head bolts, you're simply checking that the bolts have maintained the original torque setting. You don't apply any "new" torque over and above the proper specs.
 

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WRX/Focus:)
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Discussion Starter #9
Well that's is why I ask, because if I remember correctly? The Haynes manual said to torque it to 85lb's, and then go an extra 90 degree's?

So how would I know if they maintained the lb's, if IDK what it is after 85LB's
 

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Nope, the stock head bolts that are torque to yield / stretch to yield. Once there set , there set. Can't retorque them . They could all be different.
 

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WRX/Focus:)
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Discussion Starter #11
Does it matter that these are OEM stock replacements? I didn't re-use the stock head bolts, I got new ones.
 

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Does it matter that these are OEM stock replacements? I didn't re-use the stock head bolts, I got new ones.
Yes, you have to get new ones. They are not reusable. That's a good reason to go with ARP. They can be used over and over. And they are stronger.
 

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WRX/Focus:)
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Discussion Starter #13
Okay, well right now I replaced the water pump, which I really don't think there was anything wrong with.

But I also replaced the thermostat, which I do think there was a problem with.

So now my question is; Can I just pull the heater hose running to the thermostat, and run regular water from the garden hose through my engine to clean it a little?

I don't want to do no extreme cleaning or anything, just to wash loose stuff out and make sure there isn't a block. And afterwards drain the whole thing from the plug on the bottom left if your under the car looking at the radiator.

Thanks guys.
 
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