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Discussion Starter #1
Bored and thinking about long term maintenance. Right now my car is fine but later on down the road I know I'll be replacing mounts, bushings..etc. So that got me thinking about the options out there.

Seems to me in the Focus world you guys either have OEM or Poly for off the shelf items

I've run poly before in various applications (motor, trans, suspension) Have also ran solid mounts (aka solid aluminum or delrin)

Some of the best applications I've ran was a combo of the above with OEM. ie. front control arms, poly on the front, oem on the rear. (VW of course) also had the options of some models having a higher durometer which could be adapted) and last but not least getting some type liquid poly to fill in the voids of an OEM mount. (McMaster Carr sells it in small batches of various durometers.


So in the end has anyone branched out beyond the 100% OEM or the 100% poly on these cars?
 

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Sorta makes me wish I had kept my original passenger mount so I could open it up and see if I could fill it with some window weld. I'd be interested to see how well it would work.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorta makes me wish I had kept my original passenger mount so I could open it up and see if I could fill it with some window weld. I'd be interested to see how well it would work.
forgot about window weld! don't recall the durometer when it sets up but it works. and can be bought at Napa. Just make sure you have time to let whatever you fill completely cure. had a buddy do some upper strut mounts. thought he was good to go the next day. lowering the car back to the ground and squiiiiiish like the playdough factory.
 

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Well, it's VERY common to use some version of a stiffer "dogbone" RMM with stock passenger side mount for lower vibes.

Inserts instead of a whole new mount has been done, both between existing rubber & replacing it.

A-arm gets both replaced if any, poly sway bar mounts or rear links can be done in any combination for the result desired.

Adding poly links alone to the rear bar balances it better with the front that already has ball end joints.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, it's VERY common to use some version of a stiffer "dogbone" RMM with stock passenger side mount for lower vibes.

Inserts instead of a whole new mount has been done, both between existing rubber & replacing it.

A-arm gets both replaced if any, poly sway bar mounts or rear links can be done in any combination for the result desired.

Adding poly links alone to the rear bar balances it better with the front that already has ball end joints.

this is one that crossed my mind reading about getting vibes after changing it over to all poly inserts. Has anyone went half and half? leave one rubber then put a poly in the other?



guess I'm just trying to see if anyone has stepped out of the normal range of options. ie. you either have to use part A or part B.
 

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I getcha now, had to look at that a couple times to figure it out.

Don't remember anyone using rubber at one end of the dogbone & poly at the other.

I think that is because a kit of bushings replaces both ends, and it's usually being done on one that's worn already so the rubber would be in poor shape.
 

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I gut the pass side mount out of the hydraulic stuff using the cheap crap mounts that don't work. I then install a center stud and then fill below the bowl washer with window weld and above gets a fill rubber bushing and then another bigger one like 1 inch thick and 3 1/2" diameter across the very top of the bowl, all held down by the center stud. It vibrates a little bit but nothing bad at all and no serious objectionable vibration rattle like dash or motor components. The last one I did lasted almost two years but modded this one slightly different trying to increase life of the part.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I getcha now, had to look at that a couple times to figure it out.

Don't remember anyone using rubber at one end of the dogbone & poly at the other.

I think that is because a kit of bushings replaces both ends, and it's usually being done on one that's worn already so the rubber would be in poor shape.
I get you there, if someone is replacing the old. but my mind is skewing towards a decent good one or a new one. yes I know it seems illogical but it is an in-between the 2. who knows maybe it's the best!


The Whiteline dogbone motor mount insert might be worth a look. Definitely wouldn't give you as many vibes as full poly.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=KDT915
well that is interesting. have to dig into that. [thumb]
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I gut the pass side mount out of the hydraulic stuff using the cheap crap mounts that don't work. I then install a center stud and then fill below the bowl washer with window weld and above gets a fill rubber bushing and then another bigger one like 1 inch thick and 3 1/2" diameter across the very top of the bowl, all held down by the center stud. It vibrates a little bit but nothing bad at all and no serious objectionable vibration rattle like dash or motor components. The last one I did lasted almost two years but modded this one slightly different trying to increase life of the part.
cool, might be worth looking into another form/brand of poly.




*edit* http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DIYMMI

eh??
 

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I was just wondering this recently as well, since I've got an aftermarket Anchor mount.

I don't really want to spend that much more money to go and buy a an OEM mount, (or a poly mount online somewhere for that matter) but if I have to, I will.

Before I do that though, do you (the OP) suggest attempting to fill the aftermarket mount with some kind of window caulk or something related? Worth a shot, since it's coming out soon anyways?
 

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Not that simple, only filling the mount does nothing as there is no real surface to work against. Any additional shock absorber must be retained by the top of the mount as well as the bottom. There is no 'top' if the hydro parts are removed. You have to make one.
 

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Not that simple, only filling the mount does nothing as there is no real surface to work against. Any additional shock absorber must be retained by the top of the mount as well as the bottom. There is no 'top' if the hydro parts are removed. You have to make one.
So it's easiest to find an OEM type poly-filled mount online, order it, and slap it in then? I won't go through the hassle if I'm wasting my time.
 

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Denny - I'm confused, thought you wanted a smoother result. Poly mounting is for sports use - plenty of vibrations transferred - the price paid for better response.
 

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X2 on that last post, poly transfer more vibration depending on the durometer.
 
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