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Okay here it is... My 2007 ford focus 2.0 has broken the drive belt idler pulley bolt again.. First / original bolt broke at 50k. Sheared off at the block... I replaced the pulley and tensioner as well just incase that is what caused the bolt to break... 2-4k miles later it broke again..talked to another tech at our ford dealership and he had the same thing happen to his focus... His is still breaking them too.. Then I decided to replace it again and upgraded bolt to grade 8 in the metric system... Also used lock tight and nut from the back side incase it was backing out an causing it to break off.. Well it broke again today 3-4k miles later...it always happens on start up.. I hear a squeal pop the hood and see the broken bolt.. Ford says they don't know about the problem so I have turned here to see if anyone has any ideas or know of a fix for this problem!!!
I hate to say it but if this next time it's not fixed for good I will be trading in on a new fusion!!
Adam Olson
Ford Master Tech
 

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Adam, I have 07 Fusion and have am having same issues. Mine has broken 5 times! Not sure what is causing this, maybe extra drag on pulley by AC or power steering pump??? I tried putting nut on back of bolt with no luck. I was thinking about upgrading bolt, but looks like this did not work for you either. Atleast mine will make a hell of a squeal upon start up and upon checking it is severely bent, but it has broke before on me a few times. I believe the bolt is way too weak. Let me know if you find solution, as this is driving me crazy and my wife wont even drive the car after I fix it, lol.
 

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The ford engineers said that wear to the front cover where the idler bolts down will cause repeated failures... Mine has the slightest marks so I will be replacing the front cover.... If this doesn't fix it I am done!!! The real question is why did the first one break?? I will let people know in a few thousand miles!!
 

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Hope this works out for you.

I know this would just be a bandaid and not address the real problem, but you could always upgrade to a grade 12.9 bolt. I am pretty sure the sheer strength is about 30,000PSI stronger than a grade 8 bolt.
 

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Hope this works out for you.

I know this would just be a bandaid and not address the real problem, but you could always upgrade to a grade 12.9 bolt. I am pretty sure the sheer strength is about 30,000PSI stronger than a grade 8 bolt.
Anyone know where to find this grade 12.9 bolt?
 

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Since you're in Washington. Try Tacoma screw. They have several locations around the sound. Fastenal is also a good source, but tends to be pricey. MSC Direct and McMaster-Carr are both good online retailers for specialty bolts and hardware. Finally there is ARP. I'm sure they've got something that's stronger than grade 8 in your thread.
 

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Mine just broke also.

My idler pulley bolt just broke last night. It's the original at 133,xxx miles. I guess I am lucky for it to last that long. The dealer wanted over $1,800 to fix it! I said frack that, I'm having my own mechanic do it for 1/10 the price.
 

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What was the list of damages to drive up the repair estimate so high?

I assume it's more than just pulley/bolt.
 

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w/ my magic bag
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What the heck is going on w/ these bolts? Fatigue or what?
 

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What was the list of damages to drive up the repair estimate so high?

I assume it's more than just pulley/bolt.
They said they had to remove the engine and weld extractor to remaining portion of the broken bolt. [???:)] I said, no.
And I have to correct my mileage, it's 153xxx miles.
 

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What the heck is going on w/ these bolts? Fatigue or what?
I don't know, but the bolt itself is not very beefy. Not sure of the thread size. It looks like it's smaller than 1/4-20, maybe M4? I'm just surprised it lasted more than 150k miles after reading all the posts here.
 

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Old Phart
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Slot instead of hole was the reason I mentioned that thread, it's a nut & bolt deal instead of a bolt threaded into the casting.

Should make removal/replacement a bit easier.
 

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Slot instead of hole was the reason I mentioned that thread, it's a nut & bolt deal instead of a bolt threaded into the casting.

Should make removal/replacement a bit easier.
Yeah, I see the slot in the picture. It's exactly what I see on mine. So, there is a nut? Would you guess the nut is still there along with the broken piece of bolt?
 

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Old Phart
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Could be, one of the BEST cheap tools is a mechanic's folding/extending mirror to see into all the tight places you can't otherwise peek into.

Second only to magnets of the same type & a grabber tool for things the magnet can't get.

I'd rather be short on wrench choices than without those tools.
 

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There isn't a nut. The bolt just threads into the block. My bolt broke about 1000 miles ago and just broke again today. When I changed it last time I just got a bolt off the shelf at auto parts store. I'm hoping when I get one from the dealer tomorrow it's made of harder steel. Also I'm changing idler pulley and belt this time. Last time they didn't have them at the parts store I was near when it broke. It sounds like this is a problem item. I'm getting good at it now. Had everything apart in less than an hour. Will put it back together tomorrow. Doesn't suck!
 

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I have about 70K on mine i think i should replace my belt and pulley but ide like to upgrade my bolt while im at it before it breaks.

Where can we get those heavier bolts at?
 

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w/ my magic bag
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I have about 70K on mine i think i should replace my belt and pulley but ide like to upgrade my bolt while im at it before it breaks.

Where can we get those heavier bolts at?
If you don't have any issues, I wouldn't touch it. If it needs a belt, do that only. Why mess w/ it unless you need to?
 
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