[Twofocused]

Ok, I worked out how Im going to wire my intergrated stock system.

I have a Sony XM-444 4 channel amp to power the factory speakers. Its rated at 35w x 4. Later I will upgrade the speakers, Im going to fab tweeter housings into the inside mirror covers first.

Now for the sub(s). Im going to fab amp rack(s), and sub housing(s) in the hatch over the wheelwells. My goals are to keep the spare, lose as little trunk as possible, have a decent sounding system, and have a presentable hatch when I start showing the car next year.

Ive never installed a system with subs so Im in the dark here. My factory HU has a low level output for a sub. I want to run 2 8" or 10" subs with a Sony XM-222 2 channel amp or another XM-444 2/3/4 channel amp. Although the XMs are not great amps I want to stick with them so they match, and I already have one of them. I would like to run 8" subs because the area to install them is so limited. I also want subs that are red to match the amps and the red car.

Q1: Can I power 2 subs with the XM-222 2 channel amp that puts out 35x2 watts?

Q2: Am I better off with the XM-444 that puts out 80x2 watts?

Q3: What are my sub choices 8"/10", red in color?

Q4: Do the subs have to be on the same side of the car, or can I put one on each side, facing each other?

Ive done lots of systems, but in my day it was Jenson co/tri axels and a pioneer supertuner, so Im a noob to the modern "system".

For alot of reasons this system needs to stay low budget, next time around I will be able to step up a couple notches.

 

[RPIJG]

well I'd say given what you are looking for, you are gonna need a bigger amp. Most subs aren't in that range of power, they are typically above it. So if you could find a bigger 2-channel amp you'd be in better shape. As for red coned subs....actually, if I were you, go to www.crutchfield.com look in there. See what you can find, at least that way you can fit it to your budget. But as far as the amp goes, you will probably need more power especially running two subs. If you ran one, you could probably get away with a mono amp for relatively cheap.

 

[sa_pyro_ne]

I don't think you'll get much with that kind of equipment, finding a quality red coned sub is very hard, maybe you could make a red grill cover or something instead, i'd suggest getting an amp with more power too, you could get one mono amp like RPIJG said and you'd be alot better off, just make sure to get 4 ohm dvc (dual voice coil) subs and an amp stable to 1 ohm or 2 ohm dvc subs and an amp stable to 2 ohm. As far as the woofers facing eachother i am not sure, it is possible that it could cause cancelation but i think they would be fine. not for sure though.

- Scott

 

[RPIJG]

Facing each other, chances are you will get cancellation, its the nature of sound waves. You're best bet would be not to worry about the red cones, and just invert the subs in a sealed box configuration, that way you might reduce some of the cancellation you'd get otherwise.

 

[sa_pyro_ne]

if you angled them enough towards the glass of the hatch you'd probably be ok, if your a good installer and have some fiberglassing skills you could make a really nice false floor over the spare tire to house 2 8" or 10" subs and put a good grill cover on it so nothing hurts the subs, but to not lose the spare tire you'd have to make the enclosure have the ability to slide forward with the rear seats down, although that's pretty complex, you'd probably be best angling them or inverting them.

- Scott

 

[edjamin]

If you plan on doing all this work to your car, i couldnt encourage you enough to purchase a new head unit. everything only sounds as good as the weakest link, and the stock HU is defintely the weakest link.

the amps you currently have were meant to power mid-basses & tweets, not subs!

dont focus on red cones... cause as far as i know, the only half decent red coned subs are polk momo subs, and they arent to cheap. instead focus on something that will sound good.

depending on how much loot your looking to spend plays a huge role, but again just because its expensive and looks neat doesnt mean its worth it, on the other hand you pay for what you get. if you look around you can find plenty of quality products for a fair price.

Image Dynamics makes a line of subs called IDQ, excellent quality, not to flashy looking but you can find a 12" on the internet for about $120. if your looking for some supa dupa ear blasting bass, check out Dayton, Adire, or eDesigns... again not flashy but incredible subs.

depending on the what subs you decide on, dpends on what amp you should use to power them. depending on what kinda sound you like, depends on wether you should get a 8, 10, or 12. go to a couple local stereo shops and listen to something. YOUR EARS RARELY LIE~!


im getting off topic i think. ill quit

 

[Twofocused]

Im shelving this for a couple weeks to think things over. Im keeping the stock HU, I like it, blends in well.

I had a 72 K/5 Blazer, 4WD. I bought it from the orignal owner in 86 for $2500. I put over 10K more in the truck, all cash, all in one shot. I had some friends in a couple custom shops so I got great deals. Custom paint, custom leather interior, 3K Boise sound system.

I went to a show in Portland, Or. Everyone who saw my truck loved it. That night in a Holiday Inn parking lot, the entire interior and sound system was lifted. Bad enough the SOB stole my stuff, but they keyed the paint job also.

 

[sa_pyro_ne]

With flashy paintjobs and noticable exterior mods ther's a good chance there's sone nice stuff inside to. It's just a risk you take. And if you live in a bad area and have nice stuff inside, a good alarm is almost a neccesity. Or make a really stealthy install. My brother has a cheap 91' sable that's a point a to b car to get from college to home and it stays in the parking lot for long periods of time but he wants some good sound so everything is going to have to be stealth, i'm taking the old stock radio apart and taking the face plate and buttons and gluing them all together and putting some vlecro on the new hu and old stock radio faceplate so when he leaves it in the aprking lot he can take off the radio faceplate and put on the fake one.

 

[Twofocused]

Heres the plan: The 4 channel sony 444 is going under the driver seat. 35x4, high level inputs, it will work great to upgrade the stock HU.

I will find a suitable amp and single 10 or maybe 2 eight inch subs for the hatch, what ever I can fit without giving up alot of trunk room.

Thats it for the sound system. Low buck, but better than stock.

 

[racer35]

Q1: Can I power 2 subs with the XM-222 2 channel amp that puts out 35x2 watts?

Q2: Am I better off with the XM-444 that puts out 80x2 watts? No, well maybe if you don't plan on blasting it, and use a good size wire to give you the max power

Q3: What are my sub choices 8"/10", red in color? depends on the wattege, there are some 8's that will blow most tens out of the water. each brand has there specialties

Q4: Do the subs have to be on the same side of the car, or can I put one on each side, facing each other? face the subs inward so it is like a imaginary triangle you will get the best bang for the buck

hope this helps, if you have any questions or comments let me know. I don't know everything and is always willing to learn