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Discussion Starter #1
Well I finally finished replacing all my o-rings and hoses I suspected that leaked.
But one hose, the suction discharge hose had the wrong accumulator side fitting being 3/4" and not 5/8", which was a UAC brand. I was aware of the size difference but didn't realize this hose would be 3/4" and I ordered a 5/8" accumulator. My bad, so I sent it back.

Then the other hose, that goes from the condenser to the evaporator, the short hose had a bad fitting on it, and would not seal. As Freon went in, it went back out. I used the first can with the engine off, and put the 2nd can on when I felt a breeze on my leg and investigated. Saw some brown liquid dripping from the connection above on the condenser.

As I sat and wondered why it leaked, I looked at the hose connection and saw that the o-ring would not seat in the groove. I'm not positive that this is an issue, and it cost more to ship the part back than I paid for it. So I put the old hose back on.

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Questions:

Leak Detector:

Well being a novice at this, I'm wondering if I should invest in a leak detector. Take whats left of my Freon and recharge the system up to 10 PSI, and then check for leaks before I waste more material.

Orifice:
I saw some premium orifice products and wonders if I should of paid more than the .50 I paid. I bought the cheapest one from UAC, and would rather wash the original and put it back in.

O-Rings:
I quite confident that I did a good job in replacing the o-rings, and lubed them up liberally with PAG 46 oil. But the leak has lowered my confidence.

Reading Pressure Gauge:
So after pulling a vacuum, the low side gauge read this, then after 30 minutes it went down this far. One source said no more than 2HG, but my gauge set is PSI and Bar.

First Read: After 60 mins of run time
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2nd Read: after 30 minutes
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I wasn't happy with the drop in pressure, and I proceeded anyways with the charge. It held a vacuum, but would not hold pressure. The high side never moved. No clue on how to read HG or what the unit represents.

Comments on UAC hoses:
I had a real bad experience with them. The suction discharge hose didn't line up well, and I had to bend the tubes into place to clear the radiator hoses. And then the poor labeling of the UAC hoses on Rock Auto, in which UAC is responsible for. Not Rock Autos fault. And finally the short hose in the 1st picture, Looks like the flange was attached in the wrong position.

Motorcraft Hoses:
Thinking of replacing that short hose with a Motorcraft brand that has the steel flange instead of the aluminum flange. Perhaps in the case of A/C, Motorcraft parts are superior. But maybe I should use a leak detector to sniff my hoses first before I replace them.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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I've mentioned this multiple times do not use UAC parts.
This is the third person this has happened to.

RockAuto should let you return it for free it is a defective part, and the more people that returned this part will hopefully make them realize they need to pull this from their website.

After you pull a vacuum you shut the vacuum pump off and come back 30 minutes later it should not change if the vacuum starts going back up it has a leak.

You go by inches of vacuum.

I prefer to use UV leak dye.

You can simply use your old parts pull a good vacuum shut the system off and come back. If it stays down your good if it starts going back up you have a leak.






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Is that a new hose or old hose with new o-ring? Which hose is that - short hose from condenser to evaporator, or hose from condenser to compressor. Either way the original Ford hoses that connect at the condenser dont have that goove:
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Also the green o-ring you used looks thinner that the ones I did. When I completely rebuilt the AC system in my 2002 wagon in 2017 I believe I used all Motorcraft o-rings.

Good luck
Paul
 

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The UAC parts do not match the original fittings whatsoever. This happened to my brother as well.


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Discussion Starter #5
That was a picture of the new UAC hose, short hose from condenser to the evaporator, with the switch fitting.

I remember the warning about UAC hoses, after I bought them. So I'm the 3rd one on record here. I concur that UAC hoses are terrible and that Rock Auto should refund me for the last hose and accumulator as well, then stop selling UAC. Order 142327447 / 139196904. I know they subscribe to Google alert whenever the name is mentioned.

That was the o-ring that came on the new hose. On the old hose, I did match the size of the o-ring and they looked the same diameter and thickness.

I replaced all the o-rings in the front of the car and used the old hoses and accumulator. Then replaced the o-rings and orifice at the rear of the engine bay, and pulled a vacuum. Then went back and replaced the front hoses and accumulator and pulled a vacuum.

The hose that leaked on Rock Auto
More Information for UAC HA10405C

Reprint of the picture. The motorcraft hose picture posted earlier looks quite different.
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And I bought the leak detector on amazon. I have the temp gun from the same manufacture and it seems to work fine. Had some gift cards that paid for it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H34U9N8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Just FYI
When I redid my 2002 I replaced all the major components - accum/dryer, condenser, compressor - except the evaporator core. I also needed to replace one hose because its spring loc fitting was seized to the accum/dryer. I used a new Motorcraft - accum.dryer to evaporator - but reused all my other original hoses. Other than the new Motorcraft hose, o-rings, and garter springs, I also used a Motorcraft OT. The evaporator I used was from APDI/PRO. I had originally purchased the Denso unit but its fitting was not made right and I returned it and RA sent me another one that had the same issue so I ended up with the APDI/PRO unit which fit fine. The compressor and accum/dryer are Four Seasons. Hope this helps.

Good luck
Paul
 

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The vacuum test was your leak detector but you ignored the result. The blue gauge clearly has Hg marked on it and the lower 0-30 range. It can't be psi, there is a minus used on below zero numbers and the spread of 0-30 is different from the 0-30 of the psi on the positive pressured side, creating a different measuring spec. The amount leaked should have told you NOT to charge up.

The new hose has a recessed groove where the OEM doesn't and clearly screams for a bigger thicker o-ring, using the same size got you the leak. Think. The groove may be wrong but the hose may well still be useable provided you can find a proper sized o-ring to work there. Time to measure the depth and width of groove and the recess in condenser to then figure a ring size giving .003"-.005" OD/ID oversize for squeeze to seal. I bet I could make that hose work fine, I've done it before on others.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'l look into how to read the gauge. I saw the hg, but it wasn't like speedometer that reads miles and kilometers. I didn't pay attention to the connector when I installed the hose.
 

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Man I NEVER put a hose on without scanning the ends, what if the o-ring was not there at all?
 

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I tried all sorts of different o-rings on that hose I couldn't get it to seal at all.
It is a poorly designed part that does not work with our vehicles. UAC is a crap Chinese company.

RockAuto will refund you the money they did my brother no problem.

When you buy a replacement part you should be able to put it on the vehicle as is.


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Discussion Starter #11
Man I NEVER put a hose on without scanning the ends, what if the o-ring was not there at all?
I took the o-ring off and lubed it, and put it back on.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I tried all sorts of different o-rings on that hose I couldn't get it to seal at all.
It is a poorly designed part that does not work with our vehicles. UAC is a crap Chinese company.

RockAuto will refund you the money they did my brother no problem.

When you buy a replacement part you should be able to put it on the vehicle as is.


Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
I agree, but I twisted my knee and tore a ligament. Wasn't able to walk for a while and then the 30 days went by. Plus I lost 10 days in shipping as well coming from Hempstead NY.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
I finished last weekend. Had a leak after the vacuum, but manage to fix it, different location this time. It was the suction discharge port on the compressor, had to bias the connector down so it covered the green o-rings completely. Put a 20oz R134 charge, I'm short 3oz because one of the cans was defective. I calculated a 23oz charge after the 4oz of PAG oil I put in, but got the pressure up to 35psi on 81F in the garage.

Interesting on the charge, at 30PSI the passenger side was super cold and the drivers side wasn't. At 35PSI both sides blew cold but not super cold. Guess that .50 cent UAC orifice works fine so far, unless it crumbles apart in a few months.

Pretty happy so far. Took it for a drive and the compressor was super smooth, and didn't rob the engine of a ton of power. The A/C ran a lot different than when I bought the car in 2003.
 

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'Interesting on the charge, at 30PSI the passenger side was super cold and the drivers side wasn't. At 35PSI both sides blew cold but not super cold.'

And why you can't accurately charge using the low side. The 5 psi difference could have easily been 50 psi difference on the high side.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The high side reached 180psi at low side of 30psi if I remember correctly.
Then high 200psi with peak of 220?psi at low side of 35psi, had me worried.
I don't know enough about pressures yet to make anything of it.

I just thought that cold Freon wasn't hitting or spraying through the orifice to the other side of the evaporator, or something like that on the drivers side.

The super cold was pretty darn cold, almost like freezer cold. Cold was like refrigerator cold. I think 2oz more would shore up the system, and hit 38/39/40psi on the low side based on 81F in the garage. Hate to buy another can for 2oz but I have a 2006 Honda Civic that I can use some on.

I used regular R134A in a 12oz can from Walmart. Nothing special.
 

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From what I understand and someone can correct me if I'm wrong whatever the ambient temperature is double it, and add 50 that's about as high as you want your high side pressure to be.

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Discussion Starter #17
210/220, sounds ok to me then.
 

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I try to charge at 90 degrees or hotter and I go from 280-310 psi. 180-200 is an R12 number 134 is higher. Watch your a/c clutch, charge it just until the clutch quits cycling off at dead idle, a good shut off point.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That's where I'm at now, the A/C clutch engages and just holds for a long time.
The last 2oz of charge kept the clutch engaged, and didn't shut off till I turned off the engine.
 

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Every vehicle runs different pressure on the hi and low side. Depends on charge weight, PAG oil volume, the compressor design, compressor RPM, etc. There are so many variables that go into an AC system.

PS I do this stuff all day at work and on most fords I've found only the OEM parts work. Sometimes I get lucky and a part from Napa or API that is an exact oem copy almost down to the damn part number.

While I applaud the DIY approach its really hard to service ac systems at home. Obviously component replacement is fairly straightforward, but pulling vacuum and recharging can be difficult (as you've seen).

The only issue with using those cans is you don't truly know how much of the can is actually freon and how much is propellant. The charge weight required for each AC system is pretty specific, that's why we recharge the system based on freon weight. If you can get all the leaks resolved it wouldn't hurt to pay for a proper evac and recharge just so you know the right amount is in the vehicle. They would also perform a proper vacuum and pressure test (or rather should) Also most shops will be more than happy to add a UV dye should you have any issues in the future so you can trace the leak (we do)

Tomorrow at work I can look up what the pressure ranges are for your system, that way you can at least see if the compressor is in the safe range for the high and low sides respectively. Because you can actually overcharge the system. That pressure switch on the AC line looks for 2 things, pressure too low pressure which shuts off the compressor to save it from damage and high pressure which turns off the compressor the save it the system damage, because if you overcharge the system the compressor over compresses the gas and you risk rupturing AC system components.
 
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