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Have to disagree. It's not a dragster, but my 5spd is fun as hell to drive. It has enough pull in a straight line, and handles great in the corners.


Man, there is no way in hell I'd drop $35K on a Ford Focus.


The reason I hesitate on the FoST is because my car w/ the OEM 18”s looks so similar already & I wanted something different. I’m not looking to get any speeding tickets with an RS, I’m just looking for a one-off type of vehicle that you won’t see everyday on the streets. All of these new modern cars & SUVs look the same to me.


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When I think performance, there is not one FWD vehicle on the market that even comes close to my definition of performance. FWD vehicles are for commuting and getting good fuel economy, not performance. It is why I have a EcoBoost Focus, for my commute and because of the excellent gas mileage.
 

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I would definitely disagree with that but you're entitled to your opinion.

The Civic type r is definitely a performance car the Hyundai Veloster N is a performance car.

I subscribe to three different car magazines and they would definitely disagree with you, but hey you can have your opinion.







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Obviously there are a lot of people that have a much different opinion of what "performance" is. I would like to give some of those folk a ride in a real performance car, but it would ruin them. Lol.
 

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What would that be?
A Lamborghini Aventador maybe a Porsche 911?

I happen to know a automotive journalist who retired from car and driver he worked for them for a long time and he has a Ford Fiesta ST so what's that tell you. So no a real performance car in your words sure didn't ruin him. One of the things that defines a performance car is how it makes you feel the connection between man and machine.

I absolutely love Jeremy Clarkson, Richard Hammond, and James May.
Nobody will ever replace them in my book.
And they wouldn't agree with you and that's enough for me.

I just don't understand your point of view at all.


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Nope that wouldn't help at all it is a dry clutch transmission. Wet clutch fluid, dry clutch no fluid.

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This topic finally took off a little bit. As a fellow owner of a DPS6, I appreciate any ideas people may have about "fixing" the transmission, but let's be real here...there is no real fix.

FWD layouts create an issue: heat management. In the case of the DPS6, the entire transaxle sits directly below the engine in an incredibly cramped engine bay. The best way to allow some airflow to directly reach the transaxle would be to open up the lower grille triangles on the MK3. The transmission will run hot, but heat is not too much of an issue when the clutches are engaged. Even conventional automatics in FWD suffer heat-death related issues. This issue is also present on other parts that use fluid: the Fusion AWD Power Transfer Unit (PTU). The packaging and layout of the PTU causes a lot of heat and premature failure, it's probably one of the Fusion's most unreliable parts. It is not cheap to repair either.

Anyway, this brings us to the phenomenon owners noticed with the first failures of the DPS6: Foci driven primarily on the highway failed later on. Why? Because it shifted less. Less shifting means less heat and less wear. We've all learned manual at some point, or taught someone how to drive manual, correct? Let's look at a scenario we've all been in with a manual: starting from a complete stop. A timid driver will slip the clutch a LOT to get a smooth launch. This practice, coupled with the increased ambient temperatures in traffic, creates a situation where significant damage can occur to the clutch in any car. Now with a manual, the driver has absolute control over the clutch operation and gear changes - a DCT adds a whole new problem: the computer's shift logic.

Put bluntly, the computer cannot tell if it is in heavy traffic. It just shifts based on its logic program. Going 3-7 mph? Buckle up, because this transmission is going to go insane doing 1-2-1-2-1-2-1-2-1 shifts. Imagine doing that in a manual. Oh wait, you wouldn't. You'd just wait for a decent gap, then hold it in first. Let's also circle back to the manual transmission idea: you can get the car moving without gas by slowly using the clutch. Is this good for long-term use? Hell no. So should you "creep" in a manual? No. Should you creep in an automated manual? No. What do both of these patterns cause? Yep, excessive wear of the friction material and heat.

The flaws of this transmission come from both design and owner operation. Unfortunately they both go hand-in-hand sometimes on unlucky individuals and become an unreliable piece of scrap. In my case, my Focus has only failed once and I'm it's second owner. It failed shortly after I bought it. I had it replaced under warranty, then slapped a tune on it immediately. Close to 25000 miles later and I think 2 years? Still going strong, shifts smoothly, and no hiccups with shifts. I'm actually surprised by how much better it is. Believe me, even driving home from the Ford dealer with a brand new clutch, it ferociously slammed into gear and shifted terribly. I mean terribly. Here comes 2nd gear. BANG. 3rd gear coming up. BANG. Less than 10 miles. I'm pretty convinced the shift logic in the TCU has a significant blame for the failure rate as well. Hell, I didn't shift that bad when I was learning manual.

My favorite scenario on Ford's transmission logic was accelerating out of a turn. Gave it some gas and I thought my right front wheel fell off. Happened twice.
 

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Well over a year since my last post, now at 65k+(20k more) happy report the car is working exactly the same, very rare/ocasional shudders, car drives good in general, no problems, car drives definetely better when driven decisevely like when you are running late, I've have learned how to drive the DCT, IOW how to accelerate, etc. Yes IMO the DCT is not an automatic and it will never be, it is what it is ??, worst avg mpg still 30 on 89 gas, only service oil changes(4),tire rotation and a flat repair, been squirelling away the parts for a DCT repair JIC, but as luck goes, may not need them ??, report back next year or ???.
 

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Glad to hear you are having good luck We won a buyback from Ford for our 2014. It was bitter sweet. Loved most everything about the car including the transmission when it worked right. However, the clutch would wear out like clockwork every 20k miles. In fact, the car had 106221 miles on it when we handed back the keys and the clutches were shuddering as the fourth clutch set had already worn and was due for clutch number five.
 

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See I’ve serviced really bad DPS6’s ,but in my own personal Focus I’ve only had one pair of clutches put in by my self personally. The car has only had one pair of clutches put in it so far in the entirety of its life so far. I bought the car with 17,800 on it clutches were replaced at 20k. Car has 141,000 on it now havnt had any issues since I replaced them back at 20k. It’s truly dependent on how you drive it, how you accelerate, and etc. I’ve test driven and replaced clutches in focus’s that shudder like crazy and I’ve also road tested focuses for other customer complaints that didnt shudder like crazy that drove almost as smooth as my personal focus. I forgot to mention I’ve only just put a tune on it as of like 4000-5000 miles ago.
 

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" It’s truly dependent on how you drive it, how you accelerate, and etc."

I agree a 100%, the premise of this thread was "ways to fix it", that statement right there is one of the best "fixes" IMO.

I traveled a lot to Colombia S.A. in the last 7 years, I would estimate aprox. 90% of vehicles there have manual transmissions, had a chance to relearn how to drive a "Stick", those skills really helped to drive the DCT Focus better IMO, as proper/decisive gas pedal application is an necesary skill of driving a stick smoothly and staying out of harms way. Most of family/friends that visited from Colombia where able to drive car without issues, same cannot be said for some family/friends here. The normal routine of most automatic drivers, to somewhat partially push/hold gas pedal position, let the transmission do all the work and back off when you reach desired speed, does not work on the DCT.

The flat foot/high on the gas pedal position really helps(easier with a pedal spacer/use at your own risk !!), as you in effect are making pedal shorter and it moves quicker, using your toes if no good IMO.
 

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" It’s truly dependent on how you drive it, how you accelerate, and etc."

I agree a 100%, the premise of this thread was "ways to fix it", that statement right there is one of the best "fixes" IMO.

I traveled a lot to Colombia S.A. in the last 7 years, I would estimate aprox. 90% of vehicles there have manual transmissions, had a chance to relearn how to drive a "Stick", those skills really helped to drive the DCT Focus better IMO, as proper/decisive gas pedal application is an necesary skill of driving a stick smoothly and staying out of harms way. Most of family/friends that visited from Colombia where able to drive car without issues, same cannot be said for some family/friends here. The normal routine of most automatic drivers, to somewhat partially push/hold gas pedal position, let the transmission do all the work and back off when you reach desired speed, does not work on the DCT.

The flat foot/high on the gas pedal position really helps(easier with a pedal spacer/use at your own risk !!), as you in effect are making pedal shorter and it moves quicker, using your toes if no good IMO.
Think of it as driving a newer Nissan GTR, which has the same style transmission in a basic sense wont go into the hard core technical bull****. As I was told from a Ford Tech Instructor who has friends that are close to the matter on the engineering end, the advice he gave me for customers is to let them know “you can’t baby it, like it’s a Ford Taurus or Explorer you have to be on the pedal like you’re racing in nascar.” That’s what helps this transmission last/succeed the most is pedal to the metal in a basic sense.
 

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Dependent on how you drive it? Lol makes me laugh every time.....

I went from a DCT ‘13 Focus to an ‘18 Focus ST.....

Daily driving a Focus ST is NOTHING like driving a DCT. You can simulate all day long about thinking you’re driving your DCT like a manual , but until you e actually driven a manual, you have no idea...... it’s night & day difference.


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Dependent on how you drive it? Lol makes me laugh every time.....

I went from a DCT ‘13 Focus to an ‘18 Focus ST.....

Daily driving a Focus ST is NOTHING like driving a DCT. You can simulate all day long about thinking you’re driving your DCT like a manual , but until you e actually driven a manual, you have no idea...... it’s night & day difference.


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Your comment makes no sense sadly, I have a manual 2015 5.0 mustang and my 2015 Focus, never said they were the same driving wise? Yet it’s interesting how I have only ever had to put one set of clutches in my focus and several buddies after Listening to what I was told to tell customers they needed to do by Ford to prevent shuddering and to increase the lifetime of the clutches and there hasn’t been any issues. My car doesn’t shudder hasn’t shudder since I replaced the clutches my self just to have it done under warranty, compared to replacing them in customers cars who drive it totally different then I do ...(I.e. babying it) now on there’s it shudders like crazy it happens everytime. I forgive you for you lack of experience in an actual dealer working as an actual tech being able to see the differences in how the transmission reacts to several different drive styles in the focus’s. I’m still confused why get an ST? If you wanted to go fast you should’ve gotten an RS, ST’s are over rated unless you throw a 5.0 coyote in it or throw 25k in it to make it a little quicker then an RS.
 
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