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Hopefully they will clean all of that motor mount fluid off. Just put some cardboard underneath your car and see if you notice anything.
I have never seen one of these engines leak from the front even with 300,000 miles on it. I guess it's possible but your motor mount explodes at the same time the front cover starts leaking yeah I don't think so.

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Hopefully they will clean all of that motor mount fluid off. Just put some cardboard underneath your car and see if you notice anything.
I have never seen one of these engines leak from the front even with 300,000 miles on it. I guess it's possible but your motor mount explodes at the same time the front cover starts leaking yeah I don't think so.

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Hey, let me ask your advice on this. Back in late November I took the car down to Ford & took advantage of the extended warranty coverage on the transmission. The car was there for 5 days & they replaced the clutch packs & Serviced the trans. Could this failed motor mount have anything to do with what was done back in November? I have no clue & you’re much more knowledgeable about these things than I’ll ever be.




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Hey, let me ask your advice on this. Back in late November I took the car down to Ford & took advantage of the extended warranty coverage on the transmission. The car was there for 5 days & they replaced the clutch packs & Serviced the trans. Could this failed motor mount have anything to do with what was done back in November? I have no clue & you’re much more knowledgeable about these things than I’ll ever be.




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It they did not support the engine when they pulled the transmission it would have put more strain on the mount.

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Hey, let me ask your advice on this. Back in late November I took the car down to Ford & took advantage of the extended warranty coverage on the transmission. The car was there for 5 days & they replaced the clutch packs & Serviced the trans. Could this failed motor mount have anything to do with what was done back in November? I have no clue & you’re much more knowledgeable about these things than I’ll ever be.




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It's possible they stressed the already weak mount ?? by not supporting engine correctly ??
IAC the engine mounts are a weak point on these cars, but that's another topic, my 2010 Escape failed around 60k.
Anyway the new OEM mount assy ford the focus is aprox. $75-100 depending where you source it and max shop time should be 1 hour, part change and cleaning, etc.

  • Here's a video that shows how easy it is !! I still say shop around for 2nd opinions, you can wash the engine and continue to drive car (whitout hard acceleration) for a few days without any danger as the mount has safety features built, as in engine won't fall off !!, you should consider inspecting/changing belts if they are damaged by oil. IAC using uber for a few days a lot cheaper than that quote !!!
 

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They had it for 5 days to replace the clutch pack???!!! Both times ours had been replaced, I dropped it up at our dealer at 8AM and it was ready by 4:00 PM, and that included doing the door latch recall the first time, and an oil change and tire rotation the second time...
 

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Yes, they had it for a week... idk, the explanation I got was they had to order a part or something.

Look, I realize now that I probably shouldn’t have gone to the dealer yesterday but I panicked when I saw oil splattered all over my engine bay. Well, it’s there now, but I left him a VM, so hopefully they’ll just replace the motor mount & I can pick it up tomorrow night after work. I’m already dreading taking an Uber to work & back tomorrow but that’s how it goes when you live alone. I’ve test driven a few ST’s & RS’s now, so I’m fine with the manual, I just wanna find one with low miles & still under a 3/36,




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Yes, they had it for a week... idk, the explanation I got was they had to order a part or something.

Look, I realize now that I probably shouldn’t have gone to the dealer yesterday but I panicked when I saw oil splattered all over my engine bay. Well, it’s there now, but I left him a VM, so hopefully they’ll just replace the motor mount & I can pick it up tomorrow night after work. I’m already dreading taking an Uber to work & back tomorrow but that’s how it goes when you live alone. I’ve test driven a few ST’s & RS’s now, so I’m fine with the manual, I just wanna find one with low miles & still under a 3/36,




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Make sure you call them early and talk to someone, etc. They'll be "never got message", etc. maybe we are overeacting, but you are the paying customer, you have rights. In the future seek advice here, there's a lot of knowledge in this Forum, there's some factory reps here also, just ask, someone will help for sure. We Kinda derailed this thread but that's one of the reasons we come here, to resolve issues.
 

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Well back on topic, ref. 2018 SE.

I got Forscan setup with the new OBDlinkEX cable(no switch) up and running over the weekend, checked a few things, no DTC's, etc. Decided to run the DPS6 Adaptive learning, etc.yesterday, everything went fairly good, got a fail 1st time, maybe, Engine Torque Disturbed" ??, otherwise it went well, did the Adaptive Drive Cycle and logged aprox. 100 miles of mostly city driving, very humid early today and up to 86F, car is driving/shifthing real good, almost CVT'ish smooth :confused:, if this helps for a while, maybe I'll just do it at every oil change, maybe not a permanent solution, but a fix.
The adaptive learning strategy o_O:eek: will probably FIU after a while. There's a few things I did differently, but have to run now, WKYP !!
 

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Well back on topic, ref. 2018 SE.

I got Forscan setup with the new OBDlinkEX cable(no switch) up and running over the weekend, checked a few things, no DTC's, etc. Decided to run the DPS6 Adaptive learning, etc.yesterday, everything went fairly good, got a fail 1st time, maybe, Engine Torque Disturbed" ??, otherwise it went well, did the Adaptive Drive Cycle and logged aprox. 100 miles of mostly city driving, very humid early today and up to 86F, car is driving/shifthing real good, almost CVT'ish smooth :confused:, if this helps for a while, maybe I'll just do it at every oil change, maybe not a permanent solution, but a fix.
The adaptive learning strategy o_O:eek: will probably FIU after a while. There's a few things I did differently, but have to run now, WKYP !!
Mine failed once too and then completed successfully so I think that is typical. I have posted about this before as being a possible maintenance fix for this issue that may work in cases where the problem isn't related to seal leakage. Didn't seem to get much traction in terms of people trying it out so good to hear your feedback. I think the vehicle's adaptive learning to your driving style goes wonky over time and needs to be rebooted from time to time. Not hard to do once you know how.
 

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Mine failed once too and then completed successfully so I think that is typical. I have posted about this before as being a possible maintenance fix for this issue that may work in cases where the problem isn't related to seal leakage. Didn't seem to get much traction in terms of people trying it out so good to hear your feedback. I think the vehicle's adaptive learning to your driving style goes wonky over time and needs to be rebooted from time to time. Not hard to do once you know how.
Well I can see where this procedure can be intimidating even for the above average DIY/tinkerer, cautions in red letters like "it may cause problems with transmission operations" or the possibility of "bricking your module" fear :oops: , never mind the average car owner that's not mechanically inclined, etc.

Admittedly having never done it myself, I had my reservations and researched a lot !!

My next door neighbor drives a 2016/Focus/DCT, IAC he asked what I was doing revving engine, etc., can you do it to my car ?. I explained further and then showed him the instructions, he said maybe I should take to dealer JIC :cautious: , I said NP !!

I did a few things more/different from the procedure, just my preference, some will make sense, some :rolleyes:

1. Reset PCM on cold engine (batt. disconnect and jumper 10 min.)
2. Cycled gas pedal slowly 5 times after 15 seconds with key on.
3. Started car and warmed up to full temp. for throttle body idle speed relearn,15 minutes., turned off.
4. Placed square fan in front of car at med. speed and low amp charger on battery, JIC as it was warm outside.
5. Set up computer(plugged in to house power) and Forscan, etc.
6. Ran all adaptive test with Forscan, aprox. 15 min., all good.
7. Performed " Adaptive Drive Cycle" and test drive. (y)

Rant Alert !!, The thing that's really FU IMO is how these newer cars are still made purposely dealer/shop dependent for the most part, you can do anything without a fancy scanner or program. I worked on heavy comercial jets for over 35 years, a lot jets for aprox. the last 20yrs +/-, have BITE(built in test equipment) in most of their electronic modules and the instructions are usually on it !!, some of the most modern types like B777, B787 can run almost any imaginable test on plane and will give you test results/solutions, that are both displayed or can be printed on the flight deck !!!. Automakers can ad some of these features, but choose not to, because $$$. Rant Over !!

Sorry for long post, WKYP on anything new. zrx212
 

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Well I can see where this procedure can be intimidating even for the above average DIY/tinkerer, cautions in red letters like "it may cause problems with transmission operations" or the possibility of "bricking your module" fear :oops: , never mind the average car owner that's not mechanically inclined, etc.

Admittedly having never done it myself, I had my reservations and researched a lot !!

My next door neighbor drives a 2016/Focus/DCT, IAC he asked what I was doing revving engine, etc., can you do it to my car ?. I explained further and then showed him the instructions, he said maybe I should take to dealer JIC :cautious: , I said NP !!

I did a few things more/different from the procedure, just my preference, some will make sense, some :rolleyes:

1. Reset PCM on cold engine (batt. disconnect and jumper 10 min.)
2. Cycled gas pedal slowly 5 times after 15 seconds with key on.
3. Started car and warmed up to full temp. for throttle body idle speed relearn,15 minutes., turned off.
4. Placed square fan in front of car at med. speed and low amp charger on battery, JIC as it was warm outside.
5. Set up computer(plugged in to house power) and Forscan, etc.
6. Ran all adaptive test with Forscan, aprox. 15 min., all good.
7. Performed " Adaptive Drive Cycle" and test drive. (y)

Rant Alert !!, The thing that's really FU IMO is how these newer cars are still made purposely dealer/shop dependent for the most part, you can do anything without a fancy scanner or program. I worked on heavy comercial jets for over 35 years, a lot jets for aprox. the last 20yrs +/-, have BITE(built in test equipment) in most of their electronic modules and the instructions are usually on it !!, some of the most modern types like B777, B787 can run almost any imaginable test on plane and will give you test results/solutions, that are both displayed or can be printed on the flight deck !!!. Automakers can ad some of these features, but choose not to, because $$$. Rant Over !!

Sorry for long post, WKYP on anything new. zrx212
Agreed and I also did my test on a charger. In fact, I fully charged the battery prior to starting and had my laptop plugged in at all times. It is a real nail biter when you get that initial failure because it is after the test is partially complete so it makes you wonder if you just bricked your car. Definitely important to do your research in advance on this one. I did read somewhere that even the Ford techs get these types of failures in IDS with OEM scanners. This said, I have two peeves about all of this.

1. This one echos your comment that even if it was a firmware update, Ford could add this as a built in function that can be executed with a couple menu clicks without the need for a scanner, even if this has to be done by a service tech. This would simplify the process and they could offer to do it for free upon request given the issues they have had with these transmissions.

2. I have a feeling that a lot of the clutch pack replacements that were done under the extended warranty program were unnecessary and the dealers could have done the adaptive relearn with pretty much the same results as the clutch replacements were proven not to be a lasting fix. This fix could be done with zero parts and well under an hour's labor. For anyone considering an out of warranty clutch pack replacement on their DCT, definitely ask them to do this first and see if it solves your problems.

There is a lot of data that is collected and used as part of the OBDII system and it would be great if a lot of this was available within the car's menu/display system without the need for a scan tool, especially things such as TMPS tire pressures instead of just a dummy light.
 

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Agreed and I also did my test on a charger. In fact, I fully charged the battery prior to starting and had my laptop plugged in at all times. It is a real nail biter when you get that initial failure because it is after the test is partially complete so it makes you wonder if you just bricked your car. Definitely important to do your research in advance on this one. I did read somewhere that even the Ford techs get these types of failures in IDS with OEM scanners. This said, I have two peeves about all of this.

1. This one echos your comment that even if it was a firmware update, Ford could add this as a built in function that can be executed with a couple menu clicks without the need for a scanner, even if this has to be done by a service tech. This would simplify the process and they could offer to do it for free upon request given the issues they have had with these transmissions.

2. I have a feeling that a lot of the clutch pack replacements that were done under the extended warranty program were unnecessary and the dealers could have done the adaptive relearn with pretty much the same results as the clutch replacements were proven not to be a lasting fix. This fix could be done with zero parts and well under an hour's labor. For anyone considering an out of warranty clutch pack replacement on their DCT, definitely ask them to do this first and see if it solves your problems.

There is a lot of data that is collected and used as part of the OBDII system and it would be great if a lot of this was available within the car's menu/display system without the need for a scan tool, especially things such as TMPS tire pressures instead of just a dummy light.
I agree a 100% !! In addition,
I think that all ford dealers, shops, etc. Should offer completely free service to all dct related issues, no matter year period !! there's enough bad press out there(have to admit a lot is fake, copy and paste, repeating same info, etc.)and they really need to damage control if they ever want to sell the 2021 Focus or anything for that matter.

Heck I think they should offer free IDS subscriptions to Focus(or any Ford) owners that are capable**and have reoccurring issues like these, it will keep some of this warranty claims of the dealer and save time $$$. In other words ....
"You take care of your customers, they'll take care of you !!, you don't take care of your customers, they still "Will" take care of you. "

** Either by presenting credentials or taking a mechanical skill test, etc.

I also agree that in most cases the clutch replacement is a placebo effect(unless seals failed, etc), plenty evidence of that. To be honest I'm still on the fence about the clutch overheat/temperature issue, I'm really debating if is a TCM module overheat, as it appears more like indecision of the computer than a clutch slipping, IMO. Similar to the Fiat TCM overheat, thankfully not as severe.

Yes there's a lot to be desired about the features and capabilities of the onboard computers on cars, when it comes to user interface, there's more capabilities on your average cellphone !!

I don't really buy into the "Ford Engineers" opinion, a lot is public relations BS. Dealt a lot with Boeing engineers over the years, they didn't have the right answers all the time, a lot was resolved by the guy in the trenches/mechanics.

I'll keep looking for answers, zrx212
 

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I agree a 100% !! In addition,
I think that all ford dealers, shops, etc. Should offer completely free service to all dct related issues, no matter year period !! there's enough bad press out there(have to admit a lot is fake, copy and paste, repeating same info, etc.)and they really need to damage control if they ever want to sell the 2021 Focus or anything for that matter.

Heck I think they should offer free IDS subscriptions to Focus(or any Ford) owners that are capable**and have reoccurring issues like these, it will keep some of this warranty claims of the dealer and save time $$$. In other words ....
"You take care of your customers, they'll take care of you !!, you don't take care of your customers, they still "Will" take care of you. "

** Either by presenting credentials or taking a mechanical skill test, etc.

I also agree that in most cases the clutch replacement is a placebo effect(unless seals failed, etc), plenty evidence of that. To be honest I'm still on the fence about the clutch overheat/temperature issue, I'm really debating if is a TCM module overheat, as it appears more like indecision of the computer than a clutch slipping, IMO. Similar to the Fiat TCM overheat, thankfully not as severe.

Yes there's a lot to be desired about the features and capabilities of the onboard computers on cars, when it comes to user interface, there's more capabilities on your average cellphone !!

I don't really buy into the "Ford Engineers" opinion, a lot is public relations BS. Dealt a lot with Boeing engineers over the years, they didn't have the right answers all the time, a lot was resolved by the guy in the trenches/mechanics.

I'll keep looking for answers, zrx212
A few months ago, I did the DPS6->MTX75 swap because the shudder was coming back and I got a great deal on a used tranny and associated parts. So, I didn't even bother doing the relearn again. When I removed the transmission, the inside of the bell housing was dry so I'm almost positive, another relearn would have helped. In fact prior to deciding on the swap, I was running Tom's tune for the automatic and I had him create a version that would turn off the adaptive learn function so the plan was to do a clutch reset and then install the tune but I never ended up going that route because of the swap. For the MTX75, put in a manual PCM which meant that it needed to be reprogrammed but the dealer wouldn't even give me a quote on that so I found a grey market IDS compatible scanner and bought the 2-day subscription to FJDS (similar to IDS but cheaper as it doesn't have all the diagnostics). Would have been really nice if they would cut us a break on that as you pointed out. At any rate, it's a whole new car now in terms of how it drives so if you ever decide to go that route, it is very worthwhile, IMO.
 

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A few months ago, I did the DPS6->MTX75 swap because the shudder was coming back and I got a great deal on a used tranny and associated parts. So, I didn't even bother doing the relearn again. When I removed the transmission, the inside of the bell housing was dry so I'm almost positive, another relearn would have helped. In fact prior to deciding on the swap, I was running Tom's tune for the automatic and I had him create a version that would turn off the adaptive learn function so the plan was to do a clutch reset and then install the tune but I never ended up going that route because of the swap. For the MTX75, put in a manual PCM which meant that it needed to be reprogrammed but the dealer wouldn't even give me a quote on that so I found a grey market IDS compatible scanner and bought the 2-day subscription to FJDS (similar to IDS but cheaper as it doesn't have all the diagnostics). Would have been really nice if they would cut us a break on that as you pointed out. At any rate, it's a whole new car now in terms of how it drives so if you ever decide to go that route, it is very worthwhile, IMO.
Well, I'm glad you have a solution that works for you, I really didn't want a stick shift because of wife and generally easier in heavy traffic like we have here.
Because the DCT issues, I knew two things, car would be impossible to resale(but I usually keep and meticulously maintain my vehicles), also knew that I could get a good deal, wich I did. Been a mechanic by trade in a situation like this is a +.

In other words no surprises, my overall experience to this point has been real good, considering I had very minimal issues. I figured if I can go 60k and diy the clutch, is still a deal for me.

I'm still going to try a few things, but slowly as it's my daily.

The main reason for buying this car, was to save money, I was doing a lot miles in my old V8 truck in city traffic, etc., with this car getting better double the mpg, I'm basically breaking even $$ and driving a newer/more comfortable car. So overall is a good deal for me.

If someone is able to decipher this dct riddle is going to be worth $$. :cool:

zrx212
 

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Just an update, since doing the adaptive learn on my 2018 SE last Monday(4 days ago) and aprox. 300 miles, I realize that's not a lot of miles, the significant thin is that 90% have been city traffic with a lot of stop/go, traffic lights, etc. and the temperatures have been warm, up to 93F yesterday ?, it's been aprox. 100% humid in the am and about 50% late in afternoon, nevertheless A/C on full time, the car has been driving excellent, absolutely ZERO instances of shudder/hesitation when accelerating from a stop, in general transmission operation is faily smooth, shifting etc.

Here's a couple of pics of screen temp. on my trip home yesterday, yes I'm a little country some days :cool:
305555
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Good to hear. Why Ford isn't doing this is a freaking mystery. Would cost them almost nothing compared to all of the clutch/seal replacements and the lost goodwill of those who they are turning away saying "your warranty has expired"
 

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Update at almost 4k later of mostly city driving, car/transmission is still operating good(for a DCT :rolleyes:), had some occasional takeoff shudders, but admittedly most where indecision on pedal and/or sudden hesitation due traffic conditions, creep, etc. At 45k now, I'm fairly happy overall for a car that still stock, IMO driving habits are key.

BTW great win for DCT owners, that establishes a precedent that could help me in the future, hopefully not.
305752

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Does this issue run in the manual 2.0L 2016 SE model (50k)? I test drove one a few hours ago and it felt really nice and seem solid. I know there isnt much love for the transmission on these automatic systems, but does the 5 speed manual suffer the same fate of a high risk of continual transmission/clutch failure??
 
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