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Discussion Starter #23
3500-4000k ? That would put an owner into a brand new transmission.?
The folks who have been quoted for a new clutch pack out of warranty who have also shared their quotes give us quite a range, but I would expect $2-2.5k for a new clutch pack and seals, which is not the same as a "new transmission". IIRC, Ford pays the dealership for 6 hours of labor on a warranty replacement, but it's pretty well accepted that it's an 8-hour job.

If you're looking for a new transmission - as in completely replacing what's there with a slushbox or manual - then yes, your guess is probably closer to that cost. Of course, I can't imagine a Ford dealership touching a transmission swap, so you'd need to find an unaffiliated shop who would be willing to tackle it.
 

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I called my local Ford service garage today. After a very productive exchange with the service manager I came away with some great news, at least I felt it was.
An out of warranty DCT clutch. oil seal ,shaft seals replacement and reboot would cost me $1400. With an extremely reliable vehicle under me I felt this was some good news going forward.
 

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I have noticed contributors to this subject/post [idea][idea] are NOT Focus owners with the DCT 6 transmission.
You don't have to own a DCT-equipped vehicle to notice issues. I test-drove a 2014 that has the shudder. I rode in a colleagues' DCT Focus that has the shudder. And to top it all off, the Detroit Free Press article pretty much confirms what most of us were thinking.
 

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I called my local Ford service garage today. After a very productive exchange with the service manager I came away with some great news, at least I felt it was.
An out of warranty DCT clutch. oil seal ,shaft seals replacement and reboot would cost me $1400. With an extremely reliable vehicle under me I felt this was some good news going forward.
I paid about $1400 last year for a new clutch on our '14. Great car otherwise; we bought an '18 last winter.

BTW, my sidebar notes an '06 Focus, which we still own.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
A 2014 qualifies for warranty replacement/update if under 100k miles.
That's only true for a very small subset of 2014 Focuses: 14M01 / TSB 16-0109 extends the transmission warranty (input shaft seals, clutches, software) to 7 years / 100k miles for 2011-2014 Fiestas and 2012-2014 Focuses with a DPS6 and build date through June 5, 2013.

You'd have to have one of the earliest 2014s to be covered. The majority are not.
 

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That's only true for a very small subset of 2014 Focuses: 14M01 / TSB 16-0109 extends the transmission warranty (input shaft seals, clutches, software) to 7 years / 100k miles for 2011-2014 Fiestas and 2012-2014 Focuses with a DPS6 and build date through June 5, 2013.

You'd have to have one of the earliest 2014s to be covered. The majority are not.
Yep.
 

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I’d love to drive a 2018 for a week & see how it drives & accelerates vs. my 2013.

Everytime I hear negative comments about the DCT, it’s with years 2012-2016. Is there any reason why 2017-2018s are never mentioned?



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I’d love to drive a 2018 for a week & see how it drives & accelerates vs. my 2013.

Everytime I hear negative comments about the DCT, it’s with years 2012-2016. Is there any reason why 2017-2018s are never mentioned?



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Maybe not enough miles on em yet.

I went back to driving a 16 stick focus. Some reason I still get car fax on my 14 DCT......goes in about 3-4x a year for “transmission” checked at this point.


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Discussion Starter #34
I’d love to drive a 2018 for a week & see how it drives & accelerates vs. my 2013.

Everytime I hear negative comments about the DCT, it’s with years 2012-2016. Is there any reason why 2017-2018s are never mentioned?
Maybe not enough miles on em yet.
The mileage/age is certainly one component; the other is probably fewer cars sold compared to previous years.

Figure a person bought a 2017 when it came out in 2016, then drives it 1k miles per month on average. That's only about 24-25k miles for a 2017 (and obviously a 2018 will be half that).

Certainly many cars needed clutch packs before that point, but folks like me - who have had 3 replacements before the original 60k drive train warranty - didn't get the first set until it had become quite noticeable, around 30k+. After that, you know what it feels like and realize something's wrong. Still, you can tell yourself it's isolated and of course Ford is covering it under warranty, so even if they've had one replacement so far, they've only started the roller coaster.

And then there's the fact that only a small percentage of folks get online to complain about it. It's going to be another couple of years before the 2018s are as obviously bad as the 2012s, but it will absolutely happen. It's wishful thinking to believe that Ford somehow fixed in the DPS6 in later model years.
 

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Is it over then?

According to an article on US News Money posted Aug. 14, 2019, at 11:17 a.m. it sounds like NHTSA didn't find sufficient evidence to force recall. :-(
Does this mean class action is only recourse and is there any known cases?

I don't have sufficient cred to post links. but combine the lines in browser address and you should see it.

money.usnews.com/
investing/news/articles/2019-08-14/ford-extends-warranty-on-certain-focus-fiesta-models
 

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According to an article on US News Money posted Aug. 14, 2019, at 11:17 a.m. it sounds like NHTSA didn't find sufficient evidence to force recall. :-(
Does this mean class action is only recourse and is there any known cases?

I don't have sufficient cred to post links. but combine the lines in browser address and you should see it.

money.usnews.com/
investing/news/articles/2019-08-14/ford-extends-warranty-on-certain-focus-fiesta-models
They re-opened the review after that article and statements.
its very much still in play.
 

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I’d love to drive a 2018 for a week & see how it drives & accelerates vs. my 2013.

Everytime I hear negative comments about the DCT, it’s with years 2012-2016. Is there any reason why 2017-2018s are never mentioned?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

kind'a late to this party, just got a used/low mileage 2018 SE for a excellent price, had full knowledge of DCT's issues/behavior, etc. I actually rented a 2017 for a week for a long road trip and it worked good, had a few instances of slight shudder when moving thru heavy summer traffic, otherwise good.
I knew it was a calculated risk, but with 25k still left on PT warranty and me being a mechanic by trade it was a calculated risk at purchase price point, figured I could DIY clutch, etc., for aprox. 1k $+/-, if out of warranty !!, IAC is a dry clutch, thus a wear part, IMO based on what we know about early models anything beyond 50k on this clutch is PFL(pure f*****g Luck).

I seen a lot of late model Focus 17/18 SE/SEL/Titanium driving around my city and had a few exchanges with several owners, most of them had experienced some "ocassional hesitation", not really concerned with it's cause ??, most appeared not to be mechanically inclined, overall they said car was good, most of them had optioned or where given extended warranties, so they where not really concerned with any issues !!

I followed some pointers on FF and YT, did some basic things to my 18 Focus from YT videos from FordTechMakuloco, etc. when I initially got car. Now with over 3.5k since purchase, my car has experienced very minimal shudder especially when driving on very heavy/slow traffic or when warm out(80+), mostly when I do lazy/inacurate throttle pedal inputs, I have sat in car while wife is driving and she nevers experiences any issues, she's kind'a race to the stoplight, WOT takeoff driver ?, the car otherwise drives and accelerates great, mpg is great.

One thing, me and the wife agree that the accelerator pedals is too soft, it's very sensitive makes it harder to make smooth takeoffs, tends to bounce/float around when riding in less than perfect surfaces especially while turning into another street, is kinda tiring on foot when youre trying to hold back off pedal while on long strech, it's like having a super soft spring on a motorcycle throttle, makes it harder to hold steady setting with no resistance.

IMO since the logic/programming of the tansmission is very dependant of the pedal input. Decided to do some research on the electronic pedals and options to fix/cure soft pedal, found a lot of PCM tuning options to electronically tune, etc. Lot's of $$$, but will leave a footprint in your computer, no bueno for any kind of warranty claim !! I got a used pedal to do some research, etc. Still in the research mode ?, but I got some ideas I'm testing/working on will KYP ?

Here's a pic of my used pedal of 2016/20k and how easy is to hold down at base with my thumb, I could hold comfortably for a 30 seconds NP ?
305407
 

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Shortly after my earlier post, I decided to start testing some ideas, mostly to see the effect of increasing pedal tension.
I decided to install the used pedal and install a helper spring to study is effect, after some brainstorming and a few trips to Ace hwd. this past weekend, I found a suitable spring and what I believe to be safe/simple installation method, there's very minimal preload at rest, no risk of preloading pedal or damage IMO.Keep in mind I'm in test mode, not a final fix.
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Took wife to an appoinment today about 2 hr/45 mi. round trip, thru city traffic, car behaved excellent, no noticeable shuddering, etc. when leaving stoplights, etc., the long spring works good, no noticeable increase in effort and very smooth pedal feel, easier to maintain steady speeds. Will test for a while and make sure is not placebo effect, WKYP. pedal7.jpg

Some amateur cellphone pics to, #1 used pedal assy. #2,3,4. different views of spring installation. #5 shows a sample of how the zip tie was installed on pedal to attach spring, not the actual one. #6 shows actual POV from drivers seat.

Note: I had installed pedal cover, etc.on gas pedal only, to in effect raise the pedal aprox 3/8 inch, not really sold on spacers

" BTW standard disclaimer, my car, my mod, my risk, duplicate and/or attemp at your own risk, etc., etc..... "


pedal6.jpg pedal4.jpg pedal2.jpg pedal5.jpg pedal3.jpg
 

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Some info on my post got deleted ? very possibly my dumb thumbs, IAC a HD 8mm zip tie with metal lock and screw tab was used to attach spring to pedal, a sligthly modified #66 throttle type spring from Ace Hwd shadow board, a 5mm zip tie to secure spring to metal bracket under dash, not really mandatory, for safety to hold spring.

Another pic showing spring attachment under dash.
pedal8.jpg


" BTW standard disclaimer, my car, my mod, my risk, duplicate and/or attemp at your own risk, etc., etc..... "
 

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kind'a late to this party, just got a used/low mileage 2018 SE for a excellent price, had full knowledge of DCT's issues/behavior, etc. I actually rented a 2017 for a week for a long road trip and it worked good, had a few instances of slight shudder when moving thru heavy summer traffic, otherwise good.
I knew it was a calculated risk, but with 25k still left on PT warranty and me being a mechanic by trade it was a calculated risk at purchase price point, figured I could DIY clutch, etc., for aprox. 1k $+/-, if out of warranty !!, IAC is a dry clutch, thus a wear part, IMO based on what we know about early models anything beyond 50k on this clutch is PFL(pure f*****g Luck).
Replacing the clutch requires some extremely specialized tools, although there is a YouTube video that shows how to make them if one is good at working with steel.

We bought a new '18 last spring and purchased the Ford ESP 8 year 100 k bumper to bumper warranty with a $200 deductible for $1050, which with the deductible is just a bit less than one clutch job at the dealer. I got an online quote from Flood Ford and took it to my dealer, who beat their price by a few bucks, but one can of course buy it directly from Flood. If yours is still covered under the factory warranty, you can still buy it...

 
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