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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all !
I've decided to put a stealth CAI on my duratec 2.0 , but before I do, I would like to better understand how the entire air intake works in my focus.
From what I understood so far it goes something like this:

engine-<--tb-<--air filter+resonator-<----maf sensor+tube-<-------????

I got stuck here! Where does the air actually enters this system? Is it somewhere near the radiator or does it suck air from somewhere else ?

I've tried to find schematics online, but didn't find anything useful for the duratec.

Thanks in advance !
 

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It goes Engine<Throttle Body<Resonator<MAF Tube<Filter Box<Main air inlet

The filter box is housed directly behind the drivers fog light (or where the fog light would be if you don't have fog lights) and is a "lifetime" filter. A tube snakes up from this box and goes about midway up the drivers fender above the fender liner. The whole system if stretched out would measure roughly 6 feet.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks jetrinka ![pray]

to be absolutely sure I've made a diagram according to what you've told me and as I understood you:



is this correct ?

And another question [:)] , where does the inlet sucks the air from ?

Thank you !
 

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Where the windshield ends on the driver side. Between the hood and windshield
 

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Thanks jetrinka ![pray]

to be absolutely sure I've made a diagram according to what you've told me and as I understood you:



is this correct ?

And another question [:)] , where does the inlet sucks the air from ?

Thank you !
Yes this is correct. The inlet sucks air from within the drivers side fender above the wheel liner.
 

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It looks moor like a snorkle, not a sasauge though....J/K. Good draw-ring...
 

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When i looked over the stealth setup the resonator is what threw me because i kept thinking of it as the housing for the stock air filter. I didnt quite understand the whole setup. Once i ripped everything out and looked at all the parts then it made more sense what was going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
When i looked over the stealth setup the resonator is what threw me because i kept thinking of it as the housing for the stock air filter. I didnt quite understand the whole setup. Once i ripped everything out and looked at all the parts then it made more sense what was going on.
that's exactly what happened to me ! I was sure that the resonator sits together with the filter in the visible black box next to the battery. In addition, the green-yellow-red filter gauge confused me.....actually it still does.
How come it's connected to the resonator and not the filter itself? How can the reading be made ?
 

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Da fofo love remains
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Here is a random question and it's a long shot. I wouldn't even know how to do this or even make it possible.... Call me dumb...that's fine b/c it's a real "left field" idea.

So the colder the air the better is my take on what you want right? But the further you lower your intake filter to the ground the more you have to worry about water from the road becoming an issue, and hydrolock is bad mmmm-k. But at the same time from what I can tell the further away from the main part of the engine bay where the heat is the better things will be too right? So cold air intakes vs short ram intakes route pipe further away from the engine and down to get access to the cooler air under the car.... Has anyone thought of using the a/c in the car to your advantage for your intake? Is it even possible? Like I said it's an "out there" idea but think about it.....when you turn your a/c on you go faster....lol. Just made myself laugh "my a/c is my NOS"... I know that during the summer on the hotter days my car has no pickup and no go-go and I am against a cold air intake that's close to the ground b/c I have had a hydrolock scare w/ my factory air intake/snorkle. To close for comfort, so was just brain storming on other ways to fix the problem and the a/c idea popped into my head.

Any ideas? And sorry jabulon...I know it's your thread but this is a intake question no matter how far out there it maybe....lol..
 

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Here is a random question and it's a long shot. I wouldn't even know how to do this or even make it possible.... Call me dumb...that's fine b/c it's a real "left field" idea.

So the colder the air the better is my take on what you want right? But the further you lower your intake filter to the ground the more you have to worry about water from the road becoming an issue, and hydrolock is bad mmmm-k. But at the same time from what I can tell the further away from the main part of the engine bay where the heat is the better things will be too right? So cold air intakes vs short ram intakes route pipe further away from the engine and down to get access to the cooler air under the car.... Has anyone thought of using the a/c in the car to your advantage for your intake? Is it even possible? Like I said it's an "out there" idea but think about it.....when you turn your a/c on you go faster....lol. Just made myself laugh "my a/c is my NOS"... I know that during the summer on the hotter days my car has no pickup and no go-go and I am against a cold air intake that's close to the ground b/c I have had a hydrolock scare w/ my factory air intake/snorkle. To close for comfort, so was just brain storming on other ways to fix the problem and the a/c idea popped into my head.

Any ideas? And sorry jabulon...I know it's your thread but this is a intake question no matter how far out there it maybe....lol..
Why are people so afraid of Hydrolock? With my FSwerks CAI you have to be pretty reckless to get hydrolock with a 2nd gen Focus....especially with the splash guard.
 

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Why are people so afraid of Hydrolock? With my FSwerks CAI you have to be pretty reckless to get hydrolock with a 2nd gen Focus....especially with the splash guard.
Because it DOES happen, no matter how careful you are. I personally know someone who hydrolocked the engine. And since it was caused by an aftermarket part... no warranty, no insurance claim. It's a very, very expensive mistake I'd rather not have to worry about.
 

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Because it DOES happen, no matter how careful you are. I personally know someone who hydrolocked the engine. And since it was caused by an aftermarket part... no warranty, no insurance claim. It's a very, very expensive mistake I'd rather not have to worry about.
Ok NVM...forgot I live in Texas.
 

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Ok NVM...forgot I live in Texas.
Haha, yeah, I live in NE Ohio. We get an average of 60 inches of rain / year, and quite a bit of snow. And when it comes down quicker than the sewers can filter it, we get 3+ foot deep puddles that are sometimes close roads. It's easy to hit one and not know how deep it is until you're in the middle of it.
 

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that's exactly what happened to me ! I was sure that the resonator sits together with the filter in the visible black box next to the battery. In addition, the green-yellow-red filter gauge confused me.....actually it still does.
How come it's connected to the resonator and not the filter itself? How can the reading be made ?
I understand how it works now once ive taken it apart and looked at it but they hide everything really good.

Another thing that i dont understand about the OEM setup is the MAF sensor, they have gone to great lengths to throw off the size of the throat on that thing. If you look closely at the MAF sensor and that little section the MAF sensor sits in they have designed it to be hard to tell the actual size of the inside throat. The outside is like 3 different sizes all the way threw that one little section of plastic.

Here is the stock resonator:


The outside is larger with a smaller tube inside that. It pulls the air from the center threw the air filter, once the air filter gets hard to draw from it then draws from the resonator around the center tube and that is what moves the "gauge" on the side of the resonator.

When i first looked at the stealth setup i thought why would anyone do this? i thought he was doing a double filter setup keeping the resonator inline with the new filter. I had no idea it was just a dummy chamber thing.

Look how the MAF section has all these different sizes. Then i think the 2.0L throttle body is like 2-3/4" OD

IMO about the whole cold air short ram thing i dont think most of us could tell the difference. I couldnt, i went from the short ram steeda type to the FSWerks CAI and i didnt notice any difference. The FSwerks CAI looks the best IMO.


Is this a goofy looking setup or what? lol
 

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For someone who has been through it you can't blame him for not throwing caution to the wind. And for the record it was the factory snorkel that came loose at some point. The water sealed rubber piece on the snorkel that goes into the air box wasn't sealed or had been messed with and never put back on correctly. Not sure which, I had never had the need to fool with before. I just know when the sputters and car dieing randomly started I took it to Ford. They said $1100 in parts and labor. That was just a MAF and a whole new filter setup(factory). I said no, they took my $95 for the prognosis, and went home. Out of necessity I got my hands dirty. Autozone was $100+ for MAF and Steeda was like $250ish. Found all my info on this site!!!! Twas my first use long before I became a member [ffrocks]. But still is not a problem I wish to deal with again. But back to my original retard question.....A/C for cold air??? I know you loose HP when you cut on A/C but come on let me get some input...is it even practical??? Just a crazy idea...run with it...
 

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For someone who has been through it you can't blame him for not throwing caution to the wind. And for the record it was the factory snorkel that came loose at some point. The water sealed rubber piece on the snorkel that goes into the air box wasn't sealed or had been messed with and never put back on correctly. Not sure which, I had never had the need to fool with before. I just know when the sputters and car dieing randomly started I took it to Ford. They said $1100 in parts and labor. That was just a MAF and a whole new filter setup(factory). I said no, they took my $95 for the prognosis, and went home. Out of necessity I got my hands dirty. Autozone was $100+ for MAF and Steeda was like $250ish. Found all my info on this site!!!! Twas my first use long before I became a member [ffrocks]. But still is not a problem I wish to deal with again. But back to my original retard question.....A/C for cold air??? I know you loose HP when you cut on A/C but come on let me get some input...is it even practical??? Just a crazy idea...run with it...
are you talking about routing your intake into the cabin and using your ac to feed it cold air ? or did i misread something
 

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Not sure how you would do it. Wouldn't there be something like a blower/fan/something or some type of duct work in the engine bay or accessible from the engine bay....

Thanks for humoring an outthere idea [slap]
 

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Not sure how you would do it. Wouldn't there be something like a blower/fan/something or some type of duct work in the engine bay or accessible from the engine bay....

Thanks for humoring an outthere idea [slap]
haha imagine driving on a hot day, closing one of the ducts and it redirects cold air to your intake [:D]
 
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