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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Aftermarket Stereo Install Questions

Hey Guys, when I bought my car ('05 zx3, got it used) it had a Pyramid (shudder) stero in it. Not exactly high on my list of decent stereos. SO today I bought and installed a Sony xplode CDX-GT40W (I know, not exactly on the top of the list of best stereo's, but it will do what I need). Now, apon removing the old stereo, I found out the DSPO CUT the factory harness instead of buying an adapter. So I basically had to just trace the wires that they installed to install min, which I soldered in place. However, it seems the constant +12VDC line (for use to hold the memory in the stereo) is a thick heavy guage wire, while the switched +12VDC is a thin wire (like 20 guage). While obviously the wires on my stereo are the opposite, the main power lead is heavy guage (14 guage) and the battery feed is thin (20 guage). It works ok with it wired up this way, but I am concerned about the sony stereo drawing to much current for the thin guage wire. I know on one of my old vehicles (a nissan) I put an alpine head unit in it, and it required that the constant and switched +12VDC wires be connected together. Does anybody see an issue with me doing this here?

My other question is, the sony head unit requires an illumination wire to be hooked up, the old head unit didnt. So I have no clue what wire is the illumination wire. Here in the FAQ it says its the orange and black wire, however, there is more than one orange and black wire. I measured them with my multi mter, but I didnt get any voltage off of either of them either with or without the head lights on. Any ideas?

Thanks
 

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I think I understand what you are asking, hook up the HU acc+/const+ wire to the constant of the car? The only issue I see with hooking the two wires together is that your HU will be constant on, so if you forget to turn off your radio you will kill ur battery.

If you are planning to connect the two live wires (const+/acc+) from the car together, I would be concerned, the live const+ would feedback into the acc+ system of the car and may lead to other issues. – better safe than sorry.

I dont think you need to have these wires these together. I dont see any issue with the thinner wire. The fuse should pop if you try to draw too much current, this will happen long before the wire heats up. (make sure you have proper fuse here if you are concerned.)

As for the Ill+ it is the orange/black thin wire - the other orange/black is the const+. To test turn on car - turn on lights- ensure dimmer switch is on high (no dimmer)-check reading. You should get a reading and see your dash lights on. If either dash/reading shows no power check fuse, if dash lights on and no reading - you will have to trace wire to find problem.

You could also hook you ill+ from HU to the Acc+ from car - your HU lights will turn on as soon as you turn on the Key.

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response, and yeah you understand correctly. Turns out the HU has an option to always have the back lighting on, so thats no longer an issue. However, I do work as an EE and I know a 20 guage wire wont hold 10 amps for extended periods without heating up or having a voltage drop. The HU has a 10 amp fuse on the back. This why I asked about this, but I dont know about the specifics of the wiring setup in the car (schematics are impossible to find). I suppose I should just check to see if ACC has voltage in the 'Run' position. If so, then it wont be an issue. Well, other than remembering to turn off the stereo.
 

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your accy wire should show 12V in both "run" and "accy" position on the key. . .
 
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