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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just ordered an AEM Wideband, and I'm concerned about how I'm going to be installing this.

I searched around, but couldn't find a write up or how to on this. If anyone could help me out or point me in the right direction, it would be really appreciated.

I'll be installing this on a Zetec, replacing the second O2 sensor.

Basically, a full writeup would be nice, but if not, I do have a few major questions.

1) Will I need to drill or weld anything on the exhaust? (Note, I have the cat in, and I've been told by tom that I will need to weld in a bung in front of the cat. Where should I do this, and should I just take it to a shop and have them do it, seeing as I have zero experience with anything like this).
2) How can I get the wiring into the cabin for the gauge? Is there a place I should drill, a way to do it without drilling?
3) How can I get power to the gauge?

I'm not exactly familiar with this sort of thing, so the idea of this has me a bit nervous. Any help or pointers would be appreciated! (Pics especially!!)
 

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1. If your usuing the second o2 bung you should just be able to remove the second o2 and replace it with the new one. Its threaded.

2. I drilled around where the gas pedal is. up aginst the firewall going to the engine bay. Then I just ran the wire to my gauge pod. Just make sure when your drilling you know where its going to come out, dont want to hit anytthing inpostant. Mine came out by my heatshelid of my exhaust.

3. your going to have to find wire someware. I found wire around where the fuse box is, under the steering wheel. Then you need to use a multimeter or a test light to see which wire has power when you turn the car on. Once you find that wire splice it and connect it to the 12V red line of the gauge and then ground the black wire. the other 2 wires are for datalogging.

Hopes this helps. its pretty easy, you should do fine
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tom told me I'm going to have to create a new bung, as the second o2 sensor is behind the cat, and I'm going to need the sideband in front of the cat.

I'm thinking about finding out if a shop could do all of this, or at least the creation of the new bung.
 

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I took it to my local mechanic and I had them drill me a hole right at the end of the headers, where they all meet and connect to the exhaust. To prevent collection of liquids between the sensor housing and the sensor element have them weld it at a 10 degree angle from horizontal with the electrical connections upwards. aka dont put it on the bottom so liquids don't build up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I took it to my local mechanic and I had them drill me a hole right at the end of the headers, where they all meet and connect to the exhaust. To prevent collection of liquids between the sensor housing and the sensor element have them weld it at a 10 degree angle from horizontal with the electrical connections upwards. aka dont put it on the bottom so liquids don't build up.
Ok thanks. I'm going to be having more trouble with this than I thought. First exhaust shop I called didn't even know what a wideband 02 sensor was. x_x
I wish I could do this myself, but I really don't feel comfortable drilling into my exhaust, welding a new bung in there, hooking up the wiring, and finding a way to get the gauge in my car...
x_x This is turning out to be a lot more trouble than I thought it would be. We really need a how-to guide on here for this. I've been looking through the search, and this is a pretty common question, and one that often goes unanswered.

If anyone could take a picture of their setup, where they installed the sideband, where they found the wire/ground to hook it up to, and how they got the gauge in the car, it would be extremely appreciated.
 

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When me and Slocussvt on here did my Wideband he got the voltage needed to power it from a empty fuse slot for a sunroof which my Sedan doesn't have and then drilled through the firewall up around all the other wires coming into the cabin. He drilled beside a power wire that I ran for an amp and used a grommet.

We had to cut the wire from the gauge to the hookup that ties in with the new sensor that you'll be installing in the exhaust to get it to go through the firewall . We just butt spliced all the wires back together under the hood , heat shrinked them and then I wrapped them in something like header wrap but for wires so the wires don't get hot and burn into .

As for as welding your bung into your exhaust , mark it where you need it drilled then have you thought about having a Hot Rod shop do it for you ? Or maybe someone that rebuilds motors that have their own shop could do it for you.
But as long as you tell the Exhaust shop where to weld it , they shouldn't have any problem doing it even though they have no clue what a Wide Band is .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, I'm beginning to think I'll have to do this myself. I can get a shop to make the bung, but the rest would be too complex for them to work out. I don't have a sun roof, so I may be able to use that.

You just ground the other wire to any exposed metal under the hood (not engine, etc obviously) and attach the red wire to one of the fuses with 12V then?

I'm a very visual person, if I have a pic of something, I can do it. If you can get a pic of your setup some time, I'd be very grateful.
 

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You just ground the other wire to any exposed metal under the hood (not engine, etc obviously) and attach the red wire to one of the fuses with 12V then?
You should use a switched 12V power source i.e. one that goes off when the ignition is off and, as already mentioned, the best place to "tie-in" is usually the passenger compartment fuse box.
The fuse box bare metal body itself makes a good ground so all your electrical wiring is within the car (except for the exhaust sensor, of course).
 

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I was told that the stock exhaust is made of cast iron and that it has to be removed to weld a new bung to. Being in the location it is in its not easy to just drill in that spot and weld a new bung on with it on the car.

Now the thought of removing an exhaust manifold off the head that gets SUPER hot. Ive been down that road before a few times and broken exhaust manifold bolts are not fun believe me.

I decided if the manifold has to come off im not putting the stock one back on.

That was the one thing i missed or it just didnt sink in when i did my research and bought the wideband and tuner. So my next step is a header with the correct bung spots, no cat.

Another thing ive read is that where the bung needs to be on the stock manifold setup it can overheat and may ruin the wideband sensor. The header is further down stream far enough away from the head to run a little cooler.

Ive seen bungs welded on stock manifolds though but i read stuff about heating them in ovens before they welded the bung on to make the weld hold good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was told that the stock exhaust is made of cast iron and that it has to be removed to weld a new bung to. Being in the location it is in its not easy to just drill in that spot and weld a new bung on with it on the car.

Now the thought of removing an exhaust manifold off the head that gets SUPER hot. Ive been down that road before a few times and broken exhaust manifold bolts are not fun believe me.

I decided if the manifold has to come off im not putting the stock one back on.

That was the one thing i missed or it just didnt sink in when i did my research and bought the wideband and tuner. So my next step is a header with the correct bung spots, no cat.

Another thing ive read is that where the bung needs to be on the stock manifold setup it can overheat and may ruin the wideband sensor. The header is further down stream far enough away from the head to run a little cooler.

Ive seen bungs welded on stock manifolds though but i read stuff about heating them in ovens before they welded the bung on to make the weld hold good.
Wow. I think this is almost more trouble than it's worth. I'm doing it because I got a new cutback exhaust and I don't want to run lean. I had no idea that installing a sideband would be this difficult.

I'm no expert, I'm probably going to have to cancel this project unless I can get a how to from someone who has done this. Which is bad, because I'll run the risk of running lean with the new catback.
 

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Wow. I think this is almost more trouble than it's worth. I'm doing it because I got a new cutback exhaust and I don't want to run lean. I had no idea that installing a sideband would be this difficult.
Me either.

The place i took my car after i first got it had no problems with the lunchbox delete. When i went back to ask about this bung install they didnt want to even touch it. He even gave me detailed directions to a different shop.

If the stock manifold has to come off just to weld the new bung to, im sure labor isnt going to be cheap. Then what do i have? Still a stock exhaust setup, also the risk of a broken exhaust bolt with my luck im sure that is in my future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm talking to tom to see if it's possible to just use the bung after the catalytic converter.
So many people on here have done this, I have no idea how. This seems impossible. If I can't use an existing bung, and I definitely have no clue about wiring, then this simply can't be done.

I can't believe anyone has done this. If there's a chance I could see some wiring, and the bung after the catalytic converter can be used, then I could maybe accomplish this.
Maybe.

Anyone know if it can be placed after the catalytic converter? I know it won;t be accurate, but it should be off only by a small amount, and shouldn't vary too much, so even if it's reporting the wrong A/F ratio, I can assume that the actual ratio is a bit higher than reported.

I'm thinking of doing this until I can find if a shop can weld a new bung with ease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Has anyone had any success welding a new bung into the exhaust on a Zetec with stock headers? I'd like to know if it's possible or not, and whether or not a shop could do it without having to take my car apart (because I need this to be cheap).
And again, if anyone has pics of their setup, it would be appreciated. I'm hoping to go into this with a plan. I don't like 'winging' projects.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just something I found for those looking to do this. If you're okay with drilling into your exhaust, but not welding the new bung, you can get something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AEM-...ung-AFR-Wideband-/200563807464#ht_1002wt_1019

Pic in case the listing goes down:


Of course, what I'm really worried about is whether or not it's possible to drill into the Zetec exhaust. I don't want to screw things up by trying and failing. And, if it's possible, a local mechanic might actually charge you less to do the drilling and welding than getting this part.

Again, this is all assuming that it's possible to drill into the Zetec exhaust without taking everything apart x_x
 

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Here's where I had a buddy of mine put the Wideband bung in before the stock cat. It fit perfect and there was absolutely no fitment issues.



Its the bung on the left side here, right next to the first O2.



Wish I had a pic with the stock cat in my car but unfortunately I dont, have since converted to SVT stuff. I should do a how-to with my setup including how I'm able to log the wideband. Its all very stealth and the only thing you see is the gauge. Will be harder to do though since everything is already installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here's where I had a buddy of mine put the Wideband bung in before the stock cat. It fit perfect and there was absolutely no fitment issues.



Its the bung on the left side here, right next to the first O2.



Wish I had a pic with the stock cat in my car but unfortunately I dont, have since converted to SVT stuff. I should do a how-to with my setup including how I'm able to log the wideband. Its all very stealth and the only thing you see is the gauge. Will be harder to do though since everything is already installed.
Thanks, that's really helpful. [:)]
 
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