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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 00 ZX3. Currently I run the stock head unit, stock door speakers, and 2 MTX Audio Thunder 9500's powered by a Rockford Fosgate P300-1. I know the Rockford is a little small for the subs, but it works, and puts out enough for me.


Heres what I want to do, and could use some advice here. My stock head unit is crapping out. I am looking at getting an Audiophile head unit (because I like the look of a stock head unit, and dont ask why because I cant answer it). I would like to upgrade my door speakers to something like Polk Audio, or something name brand for the best quality. Should I run some sort of smaller amp to the normal car speakers? Will I benefit from it?


I will be getting rid of the MTX's (if I can find someone to buy them), and making a small enclosure on the side of the hatch, kind of like the SVT's had factory. On the other side of the hatch I was going to make another encloser to hold the amp, and Capacitor (if needed). I was looking at SunDown Audio for an 8" sub. They are relatively cheap, dont require a lot of space within the box, and from what I have been told they have some pretty decent bass. I can always go a different route on the sub choice, as I have not really looked into anything else, and opinions are always welcome.


My goal is to get rid of the hatch rattling, head light dimming, overpowered (for me at this age) system and go with something smaller and decent bass. I want to do it right this time around, and will look into DynoMat or other sound deadening materials to do it right.

My main questions are : Would an amp for the upgraded speakers be needed or recommended? Is there anything within my goals that you sound system gurus would do differently? Any help is appreciated.


Thanks,
Justin
 

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Vince your Moderator
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Yes, an amp would be your best option Justin. Class D amps are friendlier to your electrical system. JBL and some others are making auto-sensing amps that eliminate the need for remote turn on wires.

Look into subthump for an enclosure and a quality sub that has a high sensitivity rating at 1 [email protected] meter. Some 1/8th" closed cell foam or rubber under your enclosure will decouple it from the car resulting in less transfered resonance(rattles).

Seal off the access holes in your front doors to get proper midbass response.

Outside of that, you seem to have a good plan insofar.
 
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Since you're making a custom amp rack, the space of two amps would be a slight concern/added work for you. I suggest one of the hideaway power packs to power your door speakers. Kenwood or Alpine. They don't require a dedicated power wire be ran to them and they hide up in the dash. Probably ~triple the power of your head unit. The Alpine has a selectable high pass filter, the Kenwood does not. Real easy to set the gain too high on the Alpine though, the Kenwood has "virtual gain" that works pretty well. I've installed probably ~25 of the Alpine and ~6 of the Kenwood (the Alpine has been out much longer). I like them both.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Do either of you have a link on how to add an amp to the factory system, like do the door speakers. I have never installed an amp on anything except subs, and part of me thinks it will be different.

Also, any links to the hideaway power packs you talk about? I want to get all the information I can before I start buying anything.
 

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The links are there. Click on the word "Kenwood" or "Alpine" in my post.

You'll use RCA inputs or regular speaker wire inputs into either amp. Then it's just constant +12V, ground, and a turn-on lead. Then speaker wire out of course, that connect to the factory speaker wires behind the dash. If you don't want to do it, Best Buy will put either in for like 60 bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I don't mind doing it, I just wasn't sure if the power packs hooked up the same way as a normal amp. I have never dealt with a power pack.

I currently run the factory radio with a RCA converter on the speaker wires to run the RCAs back to my Rockford. Since id rather keep the factory style radio, I guess ill need to buy some Y-connectors to hook onto the converter to run multiple amps. I'm not opposed to running an aftermarket stereo, but I prefer the look of the factory radio as my opinion it looks cleaner than the in dash kits. Which is why I was going to go to the Audiophile 9006, and that my current one is crapping out.
 

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No need for any Y-cables. Both power packs can accept speaker wire input. Just cut off the RCA connectors (as it says in the instructions).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I will be running an amp in the hatch, so if you say cut the ends off the rca, to power the power pack, what about my rcas that need to go to the hatch? That's why I said to get the Y-connectors.

So either I'm completely confused, or my first post was misunderstood
 

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You're not going to touch the RCAs, lineout converter, or anything else you have in place. The speaker wire coming out of your Audiophile head unit will going into the power pack (with the RCA tips cut off), the output of the power pack will connect directly to the other side of the cut factory speaker wire. You're just putting the power pack inline.



See how the wires going into the RCA tips are twisted together? Cut off the ends and you'll have a positive/negative for each speaker. This is how Alpine (and Kenwood) has designed the amp (it's in the instructions). 8 speaker wires in. 8 speaker wires out. One yellow +12V constant wire. One blue remote turn on wire (you can tie it to ignition). One black ground. Done.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well that makes better since. In the one pic I saw of the Kenwood, I didnt see any wires, so thats why I was questioning it. Thanks for all the info you have given.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks sleepyboy
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Will do, but I plan on buying all this stuff piece by piece throughout the winter, so it will be a drawn out process. Going to start making my boxes this weekend I hope.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hope it comes together without issues. I want to try and build the boxes this weekend seeing as how the weather is still in the 60's and 70's here. Im a baby and hate the cold. At least if the boxes are build, wires are ran, all I have to do is put the speakers in, and most of that can be done inside the car with the heater on. Lol.
 

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Vince your Moderator
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But you live in Mexico........................
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Lol. Yes this town sucks too.
 
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