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Discussion Starter #41
Looks like another thread going out of control. I started it to see what I could learn. But besides Fred, so far not much.
 

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Looks like another thread going out of control. I started it to see what I could learn. But besides Fred, so far not much.
Since you lost that argument....Getting back on track, I used Lucas oil stabilizer in my old cavalier. 2k miles later my camshaft and lifters took a dirt nap. Would not reccomend...
 
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Discussion Starter #43
I don't use the Internet to argue with wackos. I only use it to gather information. When it becomes clear the source is bogus, I move on.
 

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Since you lost that argument....Getting back on track, I used Lucas oil stabilizer in my old cavalier. 2k miles later my camshaft and lifters took a dirt nap. Would not reccomend...
Interesting how much did you use? I've never had a problem with it I only use it in vehicles that burn oil though.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 

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I don't use the Internet to argue with wackos. I only use it to gather information. When it becomes clear the source is bogus, I move on.
Like this thread? Lol

Interesting how much did you use?

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
I used exactly the recommended amount stated on the bottle. It was burning a bit of oil, about 1 quart between 5k mile changes.
The day that it happened it just started running really rough and you could hear the cam lobe just smacking the top of the destroyed lifter. The carnage was real when I tore the engine down, metal shavings everywhere. Didn't feel like doing a whole rebuild on that old engine so I just bought a new one.
In Lucas's defense, those engines had known lifter issues.
 

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As strictly additives that you put in fuel such as Techron, Redline Sl1, or Gumout I haven't really seen or felt any improvements honestly. However I keep up with oil changes (OEM for oil and filter) every 5K miles (or almost once a month for my amount of driving) so the results I will find using a fuel additive would be marginal compared to a neglected engine.

There's also the issue if direct injected engines' valves even get cleaned. There's a Ford patent out on (I think) retarding the intake cam enough so fuel can wash over it but I don't believe it's on my 3cyl.

I've never used MMO or Seafoam. I've heard they work well on a very neglected car but you may inadvertently cleaned a clogged that was stopping a leak in said neglected car.
 

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There's also the issue if direct injected engines' valves even get cleaned. There's a Ford patent out on (I think) retarding the intake cam enough so fuel can wash over it but I don't believe it's on my 3cyl.
I've walnut blasted my intake valves before but I'm still thinking about setting up a WMI system using the wiper fluid bottle as a reservoir. More for valve cleaning but the octane boost is nice too. I think I'll add the nozzle somewhere upstream before the FMIC. Probably a good thing to try to invest on a decent OCC.
Do you have any idea on where you saw this patent? I'd be interested to see what their solution is.
 

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Additives and flushes. Fuel, oil, or coolant. There is already a "fuel injection cleaner" thread but this one can go further.

ATM my interest is motor flushes. Some people say DON'T YOU DARE but others do it anyway. Motor Medic contains no. 2 diesel and kerosene. Sounds wild.
if you use a good quality oil it will help to clean your engine no need to flush unless the oil has not been changed as recommended if this is the case it's too late flushing won't help
 

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Personally the only additive I use in my own vehicles when it comes to engine oil are products like Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer.
I have used Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer or a product similar to it for well over a decade and it definitely helps with oil burning especially for the first couple thousand miles until it starts to break down.

I do want to make it clear though I only use if it burns oil.

I use Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 synthetic in all of my vehicles.

You say stick to your own car what if I own a lot of cars?


Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
my focus calls for 5w 20 if you have some engine wear then 5w 30 is fine
5w 30 is too heavy for the tight tolerance in the new engines if you need to use the 5w 30 do so for one change then go back to 5w-20. 5w 30 is not recommended at every oil channge.
 

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my focus calls for 5w 20 if you have some engine wear then 5w 30 is fine
5w 30 is too heavy for the tight tolerance in the new engines if you need to use the 5w 30 do so for one change then go back to 5w-20. 5w 30 is not recommended at every oil channge.
Definitely don't agree for multiple reasons.
5W20 is all about fuel economy it was all about getting the corporate average fuel economy up every point mattered.

You will find many vehicles with the same engine in different countries that call for 5W20 call for 5W30 why corporate average fuel economy doesn't matter.

Please read

Also some manufacturers like Hyundai, Kia and Genesis actually give you an oil chart based on temperature yes the cap may say 5W20, but if you open up the owners manual you have several options.

Example of a Hyundai/Kia chart below.


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Discussion Starter #54
In SC winters are mild. Most areas (except the mountains), it never gets below 0 F. I bought 10W-30 for $2 a quart at Roses Express. API SJ. Good through model year 2001. That's mine. 2001 Focus ZTS.

Between Roses and Walmart, I have enough for 5 oil changes. I'm going to change it once every month or so as a mild flushing technique, along with 7 ozs of Seafoam in the crankcase. I've already used the Seafoam once, I may change the oil again today.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
no need to flush unless the oil has not been changed as recommended if this is the case it's too late flushing won't help
If you believe that you didn't read the links I posted.

The quickest and most immediately effective engine de-sludge teknique I used to employ was : drain all oil, install a fresh filter and fill the crankcase (4 or 5 quarts) with diesel fuel, another lubricant with impressive solvent properties, then running the engine in 5 minute sessions with 15 to 20 minute cool down in between, replacing the filter every few runs. This method would clean an engine in a few hours and again was a much cheaper alternative to engine tear down. Every engine I ever recovered with these methods went on to provide many 10’s of thousands of miles of service for their drivers

www.quora.com/How-would-you-rate-Marvel-Mystery-Oil-as-a-crankcase-additive
 

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With further reading, I conclude that flushes work for most people, but an unlucky few suffer major engine failure. One person even claimed it can happen with Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase. Very unlucky I would say.

One mechanic made interesting remarks about flushes, and MMO:

www.quora.com/How-would-you-rate-Marvel-Mystery-Oil-as-a-crankcase-additive

The takeaway for me is, be cautious what I undertake, and careful how I do it.

Semi trucks go 25,000 miles between oil changes. To make a profit, truckers stay on the road and out of the shop. If they can do it, why not I. They're pros, they know. Car mechanics, OTOH, don't want any accusation of liability from customers, so they keep preaching the 3,000 mile oil change religion.

www.internationalusedtrucks.com/maintenance-tips/semi-truck-oil-change-intervals/
We go further than 25k miles.... I do 80k mile services with amsoil on my truck. Verified with lab testing samples.
 

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Too much opinion and not enough fact.

Engine coolant should be 165°F to 185°F for Detroit Diesels or 180°F to 200°F for most others. Turbo-charged engines tend to run hotter, especially in warmer climates, climbing to as high as 215°F. If it ever hits 220°F, call maintenance.

www.fireapparatusmagazine.com/2015/11/19/really-know-your-cab-gauge-numbers/#gref
My truck never goes over 165 coolant temp or 205 oil temp unless I’m running over 75mph or pulling a long extended mountain like the Rockies or donner pass or others like that.
 

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5w 30 is too heavy for the tight tolerance in the new engines'

More false echo from the web. If people would simply compare service manuals down through the years you will find the clearances stay pretty much the same, we had super tight clearances of down to .0004" back in the 60's and acceptable using much thicker oils.

The only difference there now is that computers have made repeat work closer in tolerance range than it used to be but the ultimate numbers are largely still the same.

I'm using 10W-40 right now and have used straight 30 or 40 for years in these and zero issues, you can't kill the motors. The lighter oii is for mileage ONLY and a slight clawback to make engines wear out a bit faster, they last too long now and it doesn't sell new cars.

Before you embrace that thinner oil give some thought to why almost all engines now use anti-backflow valves in the oil filters, that will tell you something if you can think. Those valves were never used in the 60's on almost anything. It lays the lie to the other myth that thinner oil protects more by flowing faster at cold temperatures. The oil companies have been lying to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I changed the oil today. Filter was tough getting off, even though I put it on. I had only tightened it with one hand, and I'm not even strong. With the new filter I made it snug using one hand, but with less force than last time. Hopefully I found the sweet spot for next time. Won't work loose, and won't exhaust me taking it off. I don't have an oil fiter wrench, I use the pants belt trick I saw on Youtube. Good for working in confined spaces.

I drove 20 miles on the new oil. 10W-30 synthetic blend from Roses Express. $2 per quart. That's what I like. No problem I could see.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
When changing oil, I added 4 quarts and drove around to let it settle. I checked it on level ground, and it was at the bottom mark. I thought that meant 1 quart low, so I added 3/4 quart. Now it's a little past the top mark. The difference between the two marks must be 1/2 quart.

Guess it won't hurt to be a little over filled. I'll fix it later.
 
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