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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Additives and flushes. Fuel, oil, or coolant. There is already a "fuel injection cleaner" thread but this one can go further.

ATM my interest is motor flushes. Some people say DON'T YOU DARE but others do it anyway. Motor Medic contains no. 2 diesel and kerosene. Sounds wild.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Some people think additives are useless and flushes are dangerous. Youtube videos will tell you that. There is no need for parental guidance, permission, or opinion here. Just facts and experience, if you have any. Like chemical composition, mixing, and recommended use. Or failures if YOU experienced one. As in court, hearsay is not admissible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
As described in the "fuel injection cleaner" thread, I tried products from Dollar General and Family Dollar. Both worked in my car, a 2001 Focus ZTS. No problems yet.

Today at Dollar Tree I found a product containing methanol, SMB Performance Octane Booster, in a 10 oz. bottle for $1.00. That's cheaper than the Dollar General price per oz. I could not find the MSDS online and the manufacturer's website was no help. I did find a YT video where a lady tried it in her alcohol stove. She said it seemed watered down compared to HEET.

Some people said it killed their car, while others had no problem. Water will do that. It also explains why they don't provide an MSDS. They water it down to sell it cheap. Not hard to guess their methanol purity is poor compared to HEET's 99%.

So I won't try the SMB bottle from Dollar Tree. Thanks to this lady for the warning:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdyIAqGxAQc
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I found a video about water/methanol injection using gasoline as the base fuel. They said it creates a steam engine effect and steam cleans the inside of your engine. Sounds interesting.

Some people said the cheap Dollar Tree methanol worked for them. Maybe the unlucky folks had computers that couldn't cope with the mixture. Now I'm tempted to try it.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkPFZWd8wj4
 

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Yours and do what you will with it.

Having said that, please be careful with anything with methanol in it, it absorbs so easy into skin it's not funny and very poison, you already know that. Just trying to help. Almost anything you so with methanol will do the same with ethanol and less poison, AND it even may already be in your fuel.

Engine flushing? First I would ask what one is trying to flush there and if successful where did they think it went? Commonly into your bearings, which won't likely make an immediate fail, more like shave months or years off end life of the engine. If you knock loose deposits much is harmless but some has reduced down over and over and turning into carbon then later into hard carbon which can physically break things. It can hold valves off seats and in bearings shred them as well as scar the crap out of piston skirts on the load bearing surfaces. Leading to piston slap later. What is diamond but greatly reduced carbon? Why I for one never look to disturb any engine detritus which has settled down to no longer migrate.

Steam from water injection can erode cylinder walls with steam pitting, steam as well produces detonation, the shaking vibration is what cleans the parts off so clean. It's what cracks delicate piston castings too.

FYI, adding oil (MMO?) to any fuel can greatly lower the octane rating (it often suppresses volatility), oil tends to detonate under higher compression (think diesel), at least quite a few of them do. It will show up instantly on computer traces for detonation in race engines, letting somebody know the engine has begun to use oil from somewhere.

Again, do as you will, maybe we'll learn something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It gets deep. The long term effects are hard to know for sure.

I googled "smb performance octane class action" and found nothing. All I found were a few complaints. And even there, others said they had no problems.

www.complaintsboard.com/smb-international-product-damages-fuel-injection-system-c389831

If the problems were widespread I would expect more reports of it. They've sold the stuff for years, and at $1, people buy it. Knowing that, the risk seemed small enough to take. So I did.

To increase concentration, I added it with the fuel gauge just under half full. Probably 6 or 7 gallons remaining in the tank. I flushed it down with one more gallon from the pump to help it mix.

I ran about 50 miles, at highway speed, and around town. No apparent problems with performance or idle. IDK about octane boost, but that's not what I'm after. I only care about cleaning qualities. It's no miracle fix for underlying problems, but with long term regular use, it may do some cleaning that ethanol gas won't. It seems harsh enough for the job. The SMB product has some odor to it. Don't know what that is, the bottle says "proprietary components" too.

If you want water with your methanol, Dollar Tree SMB looks like the one.

Next I think I'll try HEET yellow bottle. 99% pure methanol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
First I would ask what one is trying to flush there and if successful where did they think it went?
The Motor Medic FAQ mentions "harmful deposits, sludge, and varnish."

It also says Seafoam® and Marvel Mystery Oil® "will take over 1,000 miles to show the same results." Motor Medic is an "instantaneous cleaning 5 minutes before an oil change." Then you immediately drain the oil. Hopefully any deposits remain suspended long enough to drain out.

It's radical, so I started with the more gentle Seafoam, 5 ozs. in the crankcase. For best results, they say change oil after 300 miles, but mine is relatively new, so I may stretch it to 500. Then I will use 16 ozs. Marvel Mystery Oil in place of the new oil. That works out to about 11%. For best results they say use 10-25% MMO. You leave it in for the life of the oil change.

My idea is to start with gentle cleaning first. Maybe a radical flush will never be needed. I'll see how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I read where someone said don't put solvents in your fuel tank. Guess he didn't know ethanol is a solvent. Methanol is too, though more corrosive. Sounds good for cleaning to me. In limited amounts of course. Don't overdo it.

Today I put a bottle of HEET yellow in my nearly empty tank, and filled up. Seemed fine on the way home. Most of the Dollar Tree SMB is used up now, but I can still smell it. I don't know if that's good or bad.

I also went to Roses Express where they have Super S oil for $1.99 a quart. API SJ. Good enough for my 2001 Focus. I already had some, but it's selling out fast, so I got more. Now I have enough for 3 oil changes. With a $5 Carquest oil filter from Advance Auto, that's about $15 per oil change. I like those cheap filters, they're longer than most others. More capacity to filter dirt.

They had Super S fuel injector cleaner too, $1.99 for 12 ozs. What a deal. When I got home I squeezed the bottle and it leaked at the foil seal. I'll go ahead and use it tomorrow to get it out of the house. My tank already has a full dose of HEET methanol, so I'll see what happens when the two mix. The Super S cleaner is oily, like American XT. Mixing should be fine.
 

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I'll throw a bottle of Techron or Lucas in my tank now and then, but I see no need to try these alleged miracle worker type things like Seafoam and Marvel Mystery. I've owned a number of vehicles and the engines showed no loss of performance well past 100K with just regular maintenance. Are you doing this b/c you've noticed a big performance drop, or are you doing it just to do it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm the original owner of my 2001 ZTS. 158k miles now. The past few years have been low mileage. The service sticker on my windshield says 2014 at 148k miles. So I went 6 years and 10k miles with the same oil. The color was good and the level dropped very little. I was about a quart low after all that time.

In summer 2020, I decided to change it myself, for the first time. I've changed it again since then, so that's twice in the past 6 months.

After so much time without changing oil, maybe I have sludge and deposits. Who knows. I'm not taking the motor apart to find out. It's 20 years old, and running well enough. I need to keep it going as long as possible, so I'm giving more attention to maintenance now, and trying to give it extra care.

I never used additives before. But with the age of my car, now seems like a good time to start. I look for bargains wherever I can find them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Uh-oh, I misread my windshield service sticker. It says 146k miles, and I forgot, that's for the NEXT oil change. So I actually went 6 years and 15k miles with the same oil. It was probably synthetic. A dealer did the work and used a Motorcraft filter.

Fot $3 per quart, I bought Dollar General 5W-20 conventional. I read where sombody sued them over motor oil. They had SAE 30 on the same shelf, and people who didn't know better put it in their car. That's not Dollar General's fault. Read the label and buy the right stuff.

I agree with this guy:

It really doesn't matter.....used to be a Lube Tech....I've seen it ALL.......Seen ALL makes and models running on the Wrong oil for 200K miles(every oil change logged in the computers with mileage to Prove it).....cars Blow motors with 100k Only running Full Synthetic.....seen cars come in with NO oil, not a drop in the filter....Still running!...Oil is oil, the car will run on whatever you give it.....Personally, I've been running Supertech(Wal-Mart) oil in all my cars for 15 years.....oil industry is one enormous Scam, period.

That's from the comments here:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=eh5wdCfe8Yg
 

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That whole post is just terrible advice I've tried to let it be but I don't want anyone to hurt their own vehicle. Your car I don't care about but others I do.

I saw you mentioned project farm which tells me you may have watched a video or two from him, so if you've seen his oil testing you would know oil is definitely not just oil.

Do some basic research on low speed pre ignition and come back to me and tell me oil is just oil.

The motor oil industry is not a scam they are all trying to make a better product continuous improvement. They have to deal with direct injection engines, they have to deal with high compression turbocharged engines and low speed pre ignition, they have to deal with the carbon buildup on the back of intake valves all of that has to do with the chemistry and additive packages of today's motor oils.


Anybody posting a comment on YouTube and says I've seen vehicles come in with not a drop of oil and still running is full of it . A engine will destroy itself without oil very fast. Permanent damage is done instantly though.

let me add two more things one that straight 30 weight non detergent motor oil should not be allowed to be sold anywhere.

Second thing supertech motor oil is okay but if you've watched project farm you would know synthetic motor oil performs much much better in his testing including supertech synthetic.

Personally I use Pennzoil Platinum synthetic one of the best motor oils out there, and it is priced right $25 5 quarts. I run synthetic in everything every vehicle every piece of yard equipment.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If you want to report your own experience and products you use, fine. That's what I said in the beginning. Facts and experience. But we don't need parental guidance. We're adults, we can listen to various reports and make informed choices. As for the YT comment about NO oil, that was hyperbole. Some of us know that without being told.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
And if you want to link to the experience of other people, like project farm, that's fine too. Just keep it focused.

Not long ago, I saw that project farm video on oil. His tests are interesting, but not always conclusive. If you agree with him, try to summarize. I can't recall every detail, and don't have time to revisit everything I've seen.
 

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Water/meth injection is commonly used on race engines, albeit a different way. It may keep the inside looking cleaner but yes it is corrosive. You also have to be careful here or you will blow your engine.

I bought a can of Seafoam years ago to use when the Evo reached 100K but from all the horror stories and the large possibility of something going wrong or nothing actually improving I decided not to use it. I figure if the car feels like it's running fine and the maintenance is kept up to specs then there's no need - maybe a bottle of Gumout, Techron, or Redline SI1 every once in a while when they're on sale.

There's lots of threads on Bob is the Oil Guy with data on additives.
 

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About 8 years ago a Chevy cavalier with about 50,000 mi on it had a locked up engine the person sold the car to the shop.
The individual had no desire to spend any money on it.
The valve cover was removed and a can of seafoam was poured over top. It set overnight the next day we tried to turn the engine over and sure enough it did.
The engine had a lot of varnish buildup on the parts this was from not driving it, and also the oil not getting changed.

I wish I remembered the products we used for fuel system cleans. We charged $75 and it cost the shop about $30 in product this was high-end stuff very strong. I just don't remember what it was though.
I'm sure it had a very high PEA content which is what you want.




Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
There's lots of threads on Bob is the Oil Guy with data on additives.
Lots of opinion too. That's what I want to avoid here.

I understand the concern about bad advice. But I'm only reporting what I did. I'm not telling anyone else to do it, or take my experience as a guide. Different people get different results. I like to hear what others did, what the results were, and then decide what's best for me.

So tell us. Don't be shy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I figure if the car feels like it's running fine and the maintenance is kept up to specs then there's no need
Maybe for cars under 100k miles. By then, most people get something newer. My 2001 Focus is 20 years old, 158k miles, and still going, despite haphazard maintenance. Now I have more time for it, and hope to improve. With additives and extra care, maybe it can outlast me.
 

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Maybe for cars under 100k miles.
This isn't the 1970's. Most modern cars will go WELL PAST 100K with just basic maintenance. My current has 130K and my previous Toyo and Honda each had 170K+ with just regular conventional oil changes.

People dumping miracle crap in their engines after watching a Youtube video probably do more harm than good half the time. I guess that's good news for mechanics/shops.
 
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