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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I already posted this on the 2012 forum and sorry if this is already been discussed. Figured I'd just share a video I made on what's involved in adding an amp/sub to a 2012.
The link is here if you're interested [wrenchin]

In case the part about the battery confuses you here is a link to the part you'll need. (This is not the one I used but looks/functions the same)

And this is the sub I used.
 

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What line out converter did you use? I think from what I have read the Audiocontrol LC2i is the best one to get unless you are adding all new speakers then the LCQ-1 is better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What line out converter did you use? I think from what I have read the Audiocontrol LC2i is the best one to get unless you are adding all new speakers then the LCQ-1 is better.
I just used a Scosche Loc80. It was $20, and since the Focus head-unit only has 25 watts per channel its more than adequate.
 

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Nice find on the hole near the master cylinder, I was hoping I wouldn't have to drill the firewall, thanks!
 

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When i get my focus i am going to have to add a subwoofer without changing the head unit... this might be tough....

I am observing all possible options........
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I am not exactly sure why I can't use the stock terminal. It goes up, so what? Why can't I add my amp wire?
Well if you can make yours fit go for it. I'm not sure, maybe mine was broken somehow when it went in for repairs; there was no place for me to attach it.
 

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Well if you can make yours fit go for it. I'm not sure, maybe mine was broken somehow when it went in for repairs; there was no place for me to attach it.
I connected my + to the terminal on the metal plate just in front of the battery where the alternator hooks in with a bunch of other large-fused items. I'll take a pic when I get a chance.

Getting the battery out was fairly easy, I couldn't believe how light it was actually. But getting that plastic box out that it sits in was a huge PITA.

Thanks again for pointing out that unused grommet, I fit my 4 gauge perfectly through there. Although getting it through the hole in the other side was a bit tricky. I taped a nail set to the end of my wire and it helped feed it through the second hole which was a little bit lower.

Now I just have to snake it through the rest of the car and also tap into the speakers for the signal...
 

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Just wanted to ask, was anyone else's battery covered in purple grease? I assume it's dielectric grease, but it was all over the place.
 

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Still would like to find out where you plug the remote turn on lead from the amp. Thanks.
I'm not sure where the OP did his, but some LOCs & most DSPs have a remote out based on speaker level. I'm using an amp that has built-in speaker-level inputs that allegedly doesn't need a remote wire to turn on. However, if that doesn't work, I'll try to tap into one of the fuses in the trunk and run it through a separate 1A fuse to the amp.
 

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I just thought I'd point out one issue I ran into. When the battery is disconnected, you can no longer open the trunk. So if you do something like close it with all your tools in it when it starts to rain, you're going to have to either go through your back seat or reconnect your battery. Luckily I didn't put my battery in there!
 

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Hooked everything up but the speakers, I don't wanna pull too hard and break any clips. Any tips on taking off the door panels, or does any one know what colors the speaker wires are on the rear LH speaker. Thanks
 

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I got all my parts and plan on installing it tommorow. I am already sorta regretting not getting the AudioControl LC2i over the Scosche LOC80. We'll see how it works out.
 

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Finished installing everything. Easy PZ

Removing the battery was a bit of a pain, it barely was able to come out. Also I did not need to replace the terminal on the battery. All I needed was the amp kit, loc and some speaker wire. I didn't have to remove all the panels to run the 12v wire from the battery, I was able to get it tucked up under it. The remote wire I ran to a 15w fuse in the back trunk area. LOC worked great. Spent about $50 on everything (not including sub/amp I had laying around) and am extremely happy. Thanks for the video man and all your help. I gotta find a good way to secure it now. I don't really want to drill into my floor.
 

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Finished installing everything. Easy PZ

Removing the battery was a bit of a pain, it barely was able to come out. Also I did not need to replace the terminal on the battery. All I needed was the amp kit, loc and some speaker wire. I didn't have to remove all the panels to run the 12v wire from the battery, I was able to get it tucked up under it. The remote wire I ran to a 15w fuse in the back trunk area. LOC worked great. Spent about $50 on everything (not including sub/amp I had laying around) and am extremely happy. Thanks for the video man and all your help. I gotta find a good way to secure it now. I don't really want to drill into my floor.
Nice, good to hear. What gauge power wire did you use where you were able to tuck it under there?

I've been wondering how I can secure my amp. I think I might put a piece of wood on the flat part of the wheel well and screw it though the carpet into that. But then, how would I keep the wood from moving around...

For the sub box, I'm going to try using some pieces of velcro to keep it from sliding around. I've heard some people have had good luck with it and it would be easy to take the box out if I had to haul some stuff.
 

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I got this amp kit - http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Revopak8-8-Gauge-Single-Silver/dp/B001U5XKL0 so its 8 gauge.

The way the wire came through the firewall was pretty easy too. Up under the dash there is this patch of carpet that you can just sorta pull to the side because its only connected on the top and bottom and not the sides, so it rotates. Behind it is this plastic seal that I removed and drilled a small hole into and ran my wire through that and then put the plastic bag and the carpet covers it up perfectly. Ran the wire all the way to the back and had to remove the sorta cup holder looking thing which has one clip under the seat and then ran it under and to the back.

For the LOC you gotta remove the panels in the back rear. The speaker wire is brown/white blue/white and under some black tape and are the only ones that are twisted together. All I did was strip it just a bit without cutting the wire in half and then put my own speaker wire into that and ran my speaker wire to the back so I can keep my LOC next to my amp and not have it in the panels. I believe it would rattle and make noise so running speaker wire was a good idea (my dads idea, he helped me do all this).

My amp requires a remote on lead and I connected that to a fuse in the trunk, the top one that says 15 on it.

My amp I screwed into the top of my subwoofer box so its all one thing.

Since I ran speaker wire to the back and the LOC is next to the amp I don't need the huge RCA cable the amp kit came with so I am going to get a much smaller one. 3 feet or less. I may even have one laying around. After that I have to find a way to secure the box itself. Velcro sounds like a pretty good idea.

I still got a bit of tuning to do on my amp. I got the boost/gain turned up a good bit so I can turn the bass from the headunit down so the speakers in the car aren't being pushed to hard.
 
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