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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Gave this topic a new title/thread so others might see it. I have a plain jane 2016 SE. The DTC transmission shifter only had PRNDL - with "L" being low. Using an OBDLink MX and FORSCAN (you can also use FOCCCUS), I added Sport mode (PRNDS).

Now my shifter only has the button to enable hill descent control (made useless by adding sport mode).

So, when surfing around, I saw Merillin's post on swapping steering wheels.
https://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/mk3-focus/774898-2016-se-dct-paddle-shift-steering-wheel-swap.html

Just like his SE, my column wiring harness had all the wiring. So, I bought a 2017 Escape steering wheel with the paddle shifters and swapped it. VOILA! I have functioning paddle shifters.

Merillin had an issue releasing the airbag. If you use a pick instead of a screwdriver, it comes off like a breeze. It fits directly onto the new wheel. I swapped the wheel including reconnecting the airbag in under 10 minutes. The only tools you need are a pick and a 24mm socket with a ratchet and an extender.

Now I have a leather steering wheel, sport mode and paddle shifters. Wahoo! Thanks Merillin!
 

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Damn such a sick OEM mod... If I wanted to do this with my 2013 I would have to find a 2013 wheel huh? Guessing the 2015+ wouldn't work...
 

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Hi.
Thanks for the post. Loved the results. I have 2 questi9ns for you:

-could you please give me more details about the option I need to change on forscan in order to enable sport instead of low? I’d rather work with forscan instead of focccus
-when enabling sport instead of low, I believe the shifting points change compared to drive mode but it remains automatic. After installing the paddle shifter, how does the car know they were installed? Or by just keeping the car in S and manually shifting with the paddles, override the automatic shifting?


Thanks !
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
FORSCAN change to enable Sport Mode:

I did it on my 2016 SE Hatch. Connect via Forscan, select BdyCM (Central Configuration) under "Configuration and Programming". When you run that, your car will make all sorts of noises and flashes. Warnings will show up on your dash. Normal. Don't interrupt it. Follow the on-screen prompts. Once it runs, save your as built to your computer in case you screw it up. Change to "Engineering Mode" using the menu items available. Then go to the last item on the list (Shifter type), and change it to (select shift tech (SST) with thumb switch on gearshift. Hit save (or load).

Again, car will flash and make lots of noises. Don't panic. Let it finish. Then reset all the DTC's it creates. It will create a bunch. Done. You may need to cycle your ignition a couple of times to get it to work.

When you shift into sport mode, it is still an automatic, but with different shift points. It will also lock out sixth. When you add the paddle shifters, it does the same. If you hit a paddle, the shifters become active. It won't shift up until you do it. You can shift down when you want, but if you forget, it will do it automatically so you don't stall it. To go back to normal, shift to "D". If you want "automatic Sport Mode", just shift it back to "S" and don't touch the paddles.
 

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Thanks for the info. All clear now.
I will try and report back. Also will start looking for a wheel
 

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@chiefbs did you get a “secondary boot loader missing” error on forscan?
I didn’t have internet access at the time of trying this so I decided to stop the procedure.
 

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Hi. reporting Back.
Downloaded the secondary boot loader from FORScan and ran the procedure per your instructions. Reading was ok, saved a backup, changed the parameter and write. Here it got tricker as it failed but forscan retried and successfully changed parameter.
Cleared dtc’s and started and stop car a couple times. Now S shows on IPC.

Now, I wait for the new steering wheel with paddles!

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You can use Sport Mode right now. Just shift to "S" and start driving. All the shift points will change and your transmission will feel much more peppy. The paddle shifters just allow you to manually control the gear shifting...
 

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Correct. That was my first thing to do. Wheel with paddles is just way cooler to try this feature

Thanks!
 

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Any luck with the 2013 Se? Would kill to have some paddle shifters. Wondered if I could make voice command and can/res paddles on back of my wheel be shifters instead? Surely it’s not that easy
 

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A curiosity that I have, before I install the new wheel: do I get to see the gear number on the screen when shifting on S?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Removing the airbag

Here are a couple of pictures to help you remove the airbag. In the front view picture you'll see two aluminum hooks each pointing in toward the center. The spring loaded clips that hold the airbag on hook behind these. You need to move those clips out in toward the center by sticking a pick in from the back of the steering wheel. The second picture shows this. Turn your wheel 90 degrees, stick the pic in the circular detent shown and slide it along the inside of the channel to the end, then pry toward the center of the wheel to release the clip. Pull the airbag gently toward you. Now turn the wheel 180 degrees in the other direction and do the same on the other side. Disconnect the battery and let your car sit for a couple minutes before you disconnect the airbag. You need to use your fingernails to pull out the retaining clip on the two plugs. They only pull out a few millimeters and are retained in the plug. You can't mix the plugs up when you plug them back into your airbag. Don't jam them. Also pull the two wires (purple and black shown) connected to the horn off gently. The two spades on the airbag are different sizes. Wires from the new wheel will plug into those. You can't mix those up either. When you plug it all back in, just center the airbag and push it back on. You will hear the two retaining clips click back into place.
 

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Id like to share the official procedure in order to change the steering wheel. These procedures were taken from my car's service manual.
Disabling the SRS correctly is important to prevent accidents. The rest is pice of cake but it does have a proper procedure


Disable SRS
https://www.dropbox.com/s/u06stcieizkqhl3/1-Disable SRS.pdf?dl=0

Remove column shrouds
https://www.dropbox.com/s/t3lxuc1qu8me970/2-Remove column shrouds.pdf?dl=0

Remove driver airbag
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3nag2272e03iqqk/3-Remove DAB.pdf?dl=0

Remove steering wheel
https://www.dropbox.com/s/i9k40w3gy33dd29/4-Remove SW.pdf?dl=0
 

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Hello

Upgrade is done! [headbang][wrenchin]

I took all the necessary precautions as mentioned in the service manual (see my last post).
Removing airbag is a real PITA! Those clips are very difficult to feel with a screwdriver. You dont need to do a hard pressure at all! Just play with them until you feel them.

Attached some pictures...dis-assembly, assembly, final result! [cheers]. Paddles have even leds!!

Stupid question: If i cleared al DTC's, can i assume the airbag is working properly?
 

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Hey
Quick question. After the steering wheel replacement, I’m seeing 3ohm on both driver airbag deploy stages. I can’t recall if before the change, i was supposed to see 2ohm. The rest of airbags do show 2ohm.

Should this be a concern? Should I disassemble and check connections?
There are NO active DTC’s


Thanks
[???:)]
 

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