[zlaja]

Well, first and foremost, heres what i have in mind :

1. Upgrade speakers - probably Alpine Type-S all around
2. New wiring between amp and speakers, and new electrical wiring (I already have wiring for an amp installed, but its a very small wire, i think 10 gauge)
3. New 4-Channel amp to power speakers - Not sure what im getting yet but nothing very expensive
4. Deadening in doors, and other misc places
5. Possibly a small sub, depending on if i like what i hear from the Alpines as far as bass
6. Install false floor, in the trunk, and install the amp in a hole (you know what i mean), possibly taking the cover from the amp to allow the internals to show
7. Install computer fans for cooling around the amp, and maybe 1 or 2 of those ricer light bars
8. Build a cover from plexiglass to protect amp


My questions :

1. Are those aftermarket battery terminals used as the regular ones, and is there any advantage ?
2. What thickness MDF will I be able to use between speakers and sheetmetal without any clearance issues ?
3. What can I cut plexiglass with and buff with?
4. Will computer fans be sufficient enough to keep an amp (Around 250 watts RMS)cool in the environment I plan to put it in ?
5. How much deadening mat should i get? (I might do the trunk also if i put a sub)
6. In your opinion is the mounting idea cool or a waste of time and money ? (I know that its not original, i saw it on Pimp My Ride like 5 years ago, and thought it was cool)
7. Can someone point me in a direction as far as good crossovers and high pass filters (brand and where to buy), or wether i should get one of those sound processors that is multifunction ?


I appologize for the long post but I tried to make it as organized as I could. I will appreciate any feedback. And i will probably start the build in early spring for weather reasons.

Thanks.

 

[jmanpc]

Sounds like a fun project.

1) Aftermarket battery terminals won't transmit electricity any better than the stockers, however they will make it easier to connect all the wires.
2) Depends on your door panels. I believe in an 03, you'd be best off making spacers with 1/2" MDF.
3) IIRC there's a plexi cutting tool for a dremel. I know it's a tough material to cut because it will crack easily. I'd ask around at Home Depot if I were you.
4) Yes, that should be more than enough. I had 2 computer fans for my 1000w mono and 800w 4 channel at one point and it worked well.
5) Depends on how many areas you want to do. For a pair of doors, get about 20 square feet. That should be enough for inside and out, and some change. Get another 10-15sf if you want to do your trunk.
6) It's always refreshing to see an amp install that isn't just an amp screwed into the back of the box

 

[zlaja]

Great reply and FAST. Plus one on your rep.

 

[DreX2006]

You can cut plexiglass sheets with a nail, just score it and break, just be delecate.

 

[zlaja]

You can cut plexiglass sheets with a nail, just score it and break, just be delecate.

that seems like a good idea, I would probably use a straight edge or something as well.

 

[mrfatride]

your door speakers would be good choice..run an alpine mrp-f300 4 channel amp should be a good match for the speakers. what kind of head unit are you using? i would run a good 4awg main power wire to a fused distro block and then run 8awg off that to the amps...i would look at an alpine type s or type r 10 with the mrp-m500 amp for your lows...will look clean and the amps i believe are the same size

 

[jmanpc]

Like I recommended in another thread, I would recommend focusing your effort on the front speakers. Alpine is a nice brand, and if you insist on using them, I would recommend checking out the Type X components. They're well-known for being warm and good for midbass, but not exceptional volume. I'd say instead of investing in two sets of Type S speakers, get one set of Type X speakers and leave your stockers in the rear. Then, get a two channel amp that does about 100x2 RMS or more and use it to power them.

Another option that may be appealing is to get an amp that does 100x4 RMS, and use the front channels for speakers and bridge the rear channels to a subwoofer. Something like the Alpine MRP-F600 would be a good choice:

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=6251

It will provide 100x2 to the front speakers and 300x1 to a subwoofer; perfect for a 10" or 12" Type S.

 

[zlaja]

I do like your suggestions but like always there is the money problem....

- jman pc - now that i think about it i will probably do the fronts only

-the only thing with doing it this way is gain issues with front and real - if i leave the rears stock and run them from the H/U i will probably have gain issues - ie. the rears will begin to distort long before the fronts

i dont know.. i havent bought anything yet so i can change my mind....if anyone has more suggestions id be happy to consider them

 

[jmanpc]

I don't know about you, but I keep my rears off unless there are people in the car. Hence, no distortion problems [thumb]

edit: when setting the gains, you can account for this by finding the volume at which the rear speakers distort. Then, make that the volume at which you set the gains for your front speakers. Therefore, your front speakers will distort at the same volume as your rears.

 

[jmanpc]

Oh, and as far as deadening goes, I'd recommend Second Skin. www.secondskinaudio.com

It's cheaper than Dynamat and a superior product. Check out

www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

 

[DreX2006]

that seems like a good idea, I would probably use a straight edge or something as well.

Use the end of a table to score it in a straight line, go from underneath and use the edge of the table to make it straight, then flip over and repeat, then wack carefully. I've done it before, becareful of the adheasive you use it might expand when its drying therefore cracking the glass & making your work worthless.

 

[zlaja]

Use the end of a table to score it in a straight line, go from underneath and use the edge of the table to make it straight, then flip over and repeat, then wack carefully. I've done it before, becareful of the adheasive you use it might expand when its drying therefore cracking the glass & making your work worthless.

thanks. I probably wont use adhesives, just screws with predriled holes for the sake of removability

 

[zlaja]

Oh, and as far as deadening goes, I'd recommend Second Skin. www.secondskinaudio.com

It's cheaper than Dynamat and a superior product. Check out

www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

another one I saw was fatmat. how is that stuff ?

 

[jmanpc]

Fatmat is horrid. Don't touch it. It's simply an asphalt-based mat suspiciously similar to roof and gutter patching products.