Just the other day my A/C stopped working. It will work when I have the speed set to 1, but anything after that (2-3-4) and the green A/C light turns off by itself. Could this be the blower resistor? Or is this another issue?
No, the blower resistor problem is when the fan works on 4 but not lower speeds.
Just a goofy suggestion, try turning on the AC, but turn off everything else electrical in the car that you can turn off, radio, lights, etc. See if it works on the other speeds then. If so, check your battery cable terminals, and the connection at the alternator- with the negative terminal removed from the battery of course so you don't go spark spark OH CRAP.
Another thing you can try is swapping the AC relay with the headlight relay. The two relays should be the same, but I don't think the AC turn on circuit is wired in with the fan. That would be weird, but not unheard of. I don't have a wiring diagram to verify.
If you verify that voltage loss is not the cause, then I'd guess the fan switch, not the resistor, is the problem.
> but anything after that (2-3-4) and the green A/C light turns off by itself.
Does the fan still work on 2-3-4? My first guess is that it is a bad fan speed selector switch.
99% of the time if it is a blower motor resistor pack you will have high-speed (4), but not 1-2-3. So it doesn't sound like a blower motor resistor pack issue.
Does anyone have the part number for the fan speed selector switch? I went on motorcraft.com and did a parts search, and the only thing I could find was the "Blower Switch":
I also found this on the autozone website, and it's called the "Blower/Heater Switch":
Or do I need this?:
Any help would be appreciated. I am confused which part I need.
I've never done it, but since you've gotten no other responses... it looks like it is the second photo is probably what you need. It should match whatever is behind the fan speed selector switch, with that plastic shaft sticking out going into the knob.
P.S. What's with the green stuff around the fan speed selector switch? If it is from the speed selector know rubbing the finish off, that is a bit of a sign that the fan speed switch may be going bad, as a loose and worn shaft that's wobbling might indicate overheating or such..
Does anyone have the part number for the fan speed selector switch? I went on motorcraft.com and did a parts search, and the only thing I could find was the "Blower Switch":
I also found this on the autozone website, and it's called the "Blower/Heater Switch":
Or do I need this?:
Any help would be appreciated. I am confused which part I need.
It's beginning to sound like a potential motor problem to me, but since that is a more expensive and time-consuming activity, you don't want to throw parts at it.
I would pull the blower resistor and (a) visually inspect it and (b) test it using the resistance function of a multi-meter combined with a wiring diagram.
Using the wiring diagram, I would also use the voltage function of the multimeter to test the connector to the fan resistor to see if voltage is appearing on the appropriate terminals as the new selector switch is moved to different positions. It is possible there is a problem in the wiring harness or connector, such as a burnt-open wire or two, e.g., if you find a melted connector to the resistor pack, well... there's a sign.
Again, the key is to use the wiring diagram to determine what should be happening in terms of voltage at various switch positions, and then to test, using the multimeter, to determine where the voltage goes missing.
I had the exact same problem. The problem I had was the AC and AC light on button would turn off when I would turn the fan speed anything past 1. So the AC would shut down if I turned the fan speed to: 2,3 or 4. O changed the blower moter resister right behind the glove box. The Blower moter resister cost me around $20 bucks and took 5 minutes to locate it unintall the old and replace with the new one. I found the answer on this site.
Had the same problem with mine except the switch Thermally Broke down and caught fire resulting burning out the whole Resistor pack.. a visit to my Local Buddies Ford Dealer and $73 bucks later a new switch plus resistor pack.. Had a fun time replacing the switch The resistor pack was easy, never had a problem since then..
I opened up the switch it seems there was foreign material that was stuck to the switch terminals which caused it to arc, eventually causing it to overheat on #3 setting ( Always wondered why there was a burning plastic smell) and when it finally did it fused #3 to the main and it separated off the knob shorting 1-3 and the resistor pack
Heater Fan only works on setting 1. Does not work on setting 2, 3, and 4
I was able to fix this today thanks to your posts. The part number that I had to change was YS4Z-18578-AB. This is the Blower / Heater Switch that is behind the fan control.
yup the majority of the time its "USUALLY" the resistor pack or the speed selector switch
rare occasion it will be an actual blower motor problem/wiring problem
I just had the same issue on my wife's 2002 Focus ZTS. Replacing the resistor fixed it. So to confirm, my issue was: Blower was fine at all speeds but AC light would only stay on at lowest blower speed, would go out at higher speeds. Resistor is very easy to replace, pop open glove box from side retainers, undo one screw and one connector, replace with another $15 resistor.
So my car got stuck in a ditch and had to get pulled out from the rear and now it wont even crank over. I charged the battery and even got a new one. Checked the fuel shut off switch and still nothing. Put an extra ground on motor and still wont crank.
Just ordered a OEM Motorcraft alternator pigtail for my 2004 2.3 automatic. Any tips on the easiest way to get the plug off the alternator without taking my motor mounts out? My hand cant fit back there to unplug the dang thing. I may have my wife try but I doubt that will work. Any tips??? I am...
Within the last week or so when I start the car, I'm unable to steer until the car runs for at least a few minutes. I'm not seeing any warnings on the dash cluster. Anyone else having experience with this issue and able to point me in the direction of a solution?
Thanks
The Car has 60K miles on it. Since the Daughters got it out of State, I'm going to do a pre-emptive tune-up. Using Bosch COP Verses Ford COP it's under $100 Verses over $300 for a Tune-up. Has anyone else used the Bosch COP? They have the same one year warranty as the Fords. Plugs will be...
A forum community dedicated to Ford Focus owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about SVT performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
N8iveblood · updated 
GreySkorpion · updated 
kooter7337 · updated 
