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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i replaced my a/c compressor it had a leak now when i turn on a/c it only works on the 1 position but no air comes out when i turn it to 2,3,4 it blows air but the a/c turns off i replaced the fan switch it didnt change any thing so if someone has any sugestions. thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yes i did vac it the compressor kicks on when the fan is on 1 but no air comes out when i turn it to 2,3,4 air comes out but the compressor turns off and so does the a/c light
 

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Did you replace the orifice tube? O-rings? Did you add enough oil?

For diagnostic purposes:
1) static pressure from either port engine off, record with ambient temp noted
2) AC on Max, low pressure line pressure with compressor on- look for the front of the compressor pulley to start turning to double check that the compressor is turning.
3) Does the fan blow on the speeds that the AC is not working?

I think your problem is most likely the resistor. I'm just double checking your AC work. Typically resistor problems are that the fan will not blow on 1,2,3, but will on 4. However, I have seen on here where someone had a problem similar to yours where the AC wouldn't work, the blower did, but it was the resistor that caused the problem IIRC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the compressor is turning only with it in 1 but no air comes out vents. the fan does blow on the other speeds. i didnt change the orifice tube
 

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i didnt change the orifice tube
The orifice tube should be changed any time you have the system down for any reason- leak, compressor replacement, or whatever. That part costs $5 at the most, and online retailers sell them for $1 or so. It's the filter that prevents metal shavings from getting back into the compressor. If you want your compressor investment to last, you should take the system down again to replace the orifice tube. Check the General AC Troubleshooting and Repair thread for pics on the location.

You really need at least a can with a gauge on it for the low side to make measurements, but a complete set of gauges is best for troubleshooting. What you learn by properly doing your AC can help you make money from your friends to offset the cost of the gauges. You just have to follow the DIYer's AC repair rules:

1) Replace all O-rings
2) Replace orifice tube if the system has one, only replace expansion valves if system has charge but will not cool or suction side pressure is high.
3) Flush condenser with mineral spirits or AC system cleaner- use compressor to blow it out if the compressor is bad.
4) Vacuum system, allow it to vacuum for 15 mins min, then sit for 30 mins min to see if vacuum is lost before adding charge
5) Use pressurized oil, and make sure you have at least the minimum amount and not more than 10% over. Insert oil before refrigerant to prevent compressor damage.
6) Charge refrigerant as low as possible to keep the LP switch from cutting off at 3k rpm. More might have to be added in the fall or spring, but do so tentatively because psi= evap temp, and we all want low evap temps in the hottest part of the year. Never charge systems in ambient temps less than 60F.

That last one is what I do- but not what everyone does. You might have to add some in the cooler parts of the year so that the AC will pull moisture off the windshield during that time of the year if you need it. My reasoning is that you don't really need AC in the fall or spring, but you really want it cold in the hot of the summer. When the temp rises, so will the pressure, so if you're barely hitting the LP limit at 3k rpm with an ambient of 60F- then when it's 100F outside, you'll have ice cold air.

Lastly, those pressure measurements I asked for will verify that the charge was done correctly. If you don't understand why, then read the General AC thread. It really seems like your problem is the fan resistor if you've already replaced the blower switch in the cabin.
 
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