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Check the fuel rail pressure sensor vacuum line for gas.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just did a compression test on all cylinders. I started with cylinder 4 and it first tested at 150 psi but I think something was wrong... I'll explain in a bit. Cylinders 3, 2, and 1 were at 60 psi. I then double checked number 4 and after cranking for longer than what I was comfortable with, it reached 30 psi.

Not sure what all that sounds like to someone more experienced than myself, but I think my timing has slipped a little. Next week I will set it to TDC and pull the valve cover to see where my cams are.

Thoughts or advice?

Thanks.
 

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Just did a compression test on all cylinders. I started with cylinder 4 and it first tested at 150 psi but I think something was wrong... I'll explain in a bit. Cylinders 3, 2, and 1 were at 60 psi. I then double checked number 4 and after cranking for longer than what I was comfortable with, it reached 30 psi.

Not sure what all that sounds like to someone more experienced than myself, but I think my timing has slipped a little. Next week I will set it to TDC and pull the valve cover to see where my cams are.

Thoughts or advice?

Thanks.
You have the throttle wide open?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Done correctly this time, starting with cylinder 1 over to 4 - 25, 10, 20, 20 psi. I'm pretty sure my timing is off. Monday I'll set to TDC and pull the valve cover to see where my cams are positioned. I don't remember hearing any valve interference, but I'm still crossing my fingers that nothing hit.

No way am I going to pull the timing cover off while in the car so I'm just going to plan on pulling the engine out after I check the cam position. I guess I'll start all over.
 

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Done correctly this time, starting with cylinder 1 over to 4 - 25, 10, 20, 20 psi. I'm pretty sure my timing is off. Monday I'll set to TDC and pull the valve cover to see where my cams are positioned. I don't remember hearing any valve interference, but I'm still crossing my fingers that nothing hit.

No way am I going to pull the timing cover off while in the car so I'm just going to plan on pulling the engine out after I check the cam position. I guess I'll start all over.
Why?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was thinking it would be easier to pull the engine since I could have the freedom and mobility to pull the timing cover and place it back outside the car, but the more I think about it, I won't need to if I'm just repositioning the cams. But having the engine out would be easier for me to see if I bent any valves since I don't want to pull the head off.
 

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Makes sense. Duratecs are a pain to mess with timing cover in the car. Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I was talking to a guy at work and he was thinking I could have fuel washed the cylinders, or flooded it, since it was shooting gas out the tailpipe and the intake manifold had a lot of gas in it. The spark plugs were dripping with gas, also. Ever hear of this on a focus? If this is the case, how could it have happened in the first place and how do I prevent it from happening again?

One thing I forgot to mention is that when it was being tuned, I had the 2.5 map sensor on the 2.5 intake manifold but switched to the 2.3 map sensor to hope that would fix the hesitation and idle problems I was having. I guess the first thing I should do is use the 2.5 map sensor and clean all the gas out and try to get it started then go from there. Can't do much work until Monday though.
 

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I was talking to a guy at work and he was thinking I could have fuel washed the cylinders, or flooded it, since it was shooting gas out the tailpipe and the intake manifold had a lot of gas in it. The spark plugs were dripping with gas, also. Ever hear of this on a focus? If this is the case, how could it have happened in the first place and how do I prevent it from happening again?

One thing I forgot to mention is that when it was being tuned, I had the 2.5 map sensor on the 2.5 intake manifold but switched to the 2.3 map sensor to hope that would fix the hesitation and idle problems I was having. I guess the first thing I should do is use the 2.5 map sensor and clean all the gas out and try to get it started then go from there. Can't do much work until Monday though.
The fact you have no compression is the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
From what I've been reading, a flooded engine and low to no compression tie in together. Given the simultaneous symptoms, I'm wondering if the cylinders have been washed and they just need to be dried out and lubricated again. Since it's an interference engine, any timing slip can cause a smash and I never heard anything like that.

I'm just wanting to make an engine pull a last resort, but at the same time I don't want to destroy what I have.
 

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From what I've been reading, a flooded engine and low to no compression tie in together. Given the simultaneous symptoms, I'm wondering if the cylinders have been washed and they just need to be dried out and lubricated again. Since it's an interference engine, any timing slip can cause a smash and I never heard anything like that.

I'm just wanting to make an engine pull a last resort, but at the same time I don't want to destroy what I have.
Pull the fuel pump fuse. Squirt some oil in the sparkplug holes and redo the compressor test.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Pulled the intake manifold and poured out the gas, put a little oil in each cylinder, tested the compression and they were all around 200 psi with the throttle open. Also changed the oil and filter and cleaned the carbon on the spark plugs with brake clean and a wire brush.

Started it up and same problem. Gas out the tailpipe and now my oil smells like gas again. Plugs are fouling out with gas causing the misfire. I find it hard to believe that all injectors are failing at the same time and the plugs have around 400 miles on them.

When it's running I have gas coming out of the header which confirms an exhaust leak pre o2 sensor. My wideband is saying a/f is at 18.6 and not changing with more rpm. I can hear loud intake noise from the filter, almost like the iac is trying to pull more air in. It's unusually loud, but I'm not sure if this could be a culprit. Something is causing a fuel dump and I'm not sure how to track it down. I'm not sure if an exhaust leak at the head/header could cause this much fuel to dump. I'm at a loss here.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Oh, and no codes and my fuel pressure is between 36 and 40 psi on the factory tune. I switched to factory to lower my fuel pressure to rule out a possible tune mishap.
 

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Hey guys since this is one of the very few active chats.... I have an 06 ZX4 the quick connect clip broke that connects to the back of the fuel filter or front the pressurized side, finally got it together the runner grommet piece inside went bad and removed it spitting fuel still does anybody know the part for this part
 

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Discussion Starter #18
A quick glimpse through your post history shows you hijack threads and I personally don't appreciate it. Make your own thread so mine can stay on topic, please.
 

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Euro , Call me tomorrow somethign doesnt sound right , your not going to go from 20psi to 200 psi cranking compression spraying oil in the Cyl

Do this , bring # 1 Cyl to TDC and see a the plate or file will slide into the cams , it should

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Will do, I'll give you a call tomorrow. Thanks, Tom. I also sent you an email with a short log of it running with the factory tune.
 
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