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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok so I have been on a three day spree now on this project....[mecry]. I have had so many problems. First off, I am unable to break loose the sprocket bolts. I’ve used an open face wrench to hold the cam still and lugged on the sprockets…no luck. I made the "recommended" tool to hold the sprockets and lugged on it...no go either. I broke out the impacted...ha...no luck. So i gave up and decided to try to put it all back together without loosening the sprockets. I have made about 8 attempts to put the new belt on but every time I test for TDC after install, I cant get the tool to slip in the back of the cams after a few turns of the crank. I have noticed that after installing the tensioner and remove the cam TDC tool, I can see the cams move ever so slightly as if there was still slack in the timing belt. Look at the pics bellow and tell me if I have the tensioner in right position. I have been looking at other pics and I see the alien wrench hole around the 9 o’clock position, unlike mine. Any suggestions [:(] ????
 

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I just finished the same project on Saturday. Here's what I did

1. Did not need to take the sprockets off.
2. Took several minutes to get the cam bar in both. (has to be in)
3. I put the timing pin in. My belt ripped off 16 ribs and the timing ended up jumping 30+ degrees on me thus the reason for the pin. But it's still a good idea to put it in. I paint marked the crank sprocket to the engine. This way you will know if the crank moves.
4. Loosen the tensioner bolt 4 turns
5. The tab needs to be out, let it hang for now.
6. I had the 18mm socket with extension and 1/2" drive on the crank sprocket while my left leg kept in place to get the belt. But agian I was using the timing pin and this leverage pushed against the pin.
7. Keep tight pressure starting on the exhaust cam (front cam) and work your way around to the inlet cam (back cam) and end up going over the tensior. It takes alittle to get over the tensior but it does.
8. Then put the tab in the hole.
9. Take a 6mm allen wrench and align the fork looking thing to the mark on the tab.
10. Tighen the tensior bolt to recommended torque.
11. Now rotate the engine several turns to make sure everything is free.
12. You will notice the fork looking thing will move down, that's ok.

Now time to put everything together[lockdance]

I took alot of pics and notes and will put something together for others.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My kit came with an extra pulley. The directions in the box shows that it goes on the right upper side of the crank sprocket. Mine didn’t have this originally but I put it on. Any clue on that one???
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I have enough slack in the belt on the exhaust side of the cam sprocket that I cant get out. Every time i pull the cam timing tool out the cam turns due to the slack; there for it is throwing it out of alignment of TDC. If I could at least get the exhaust came loose I could give it a slight turn to help pull out the slack....Dose that make any sense???
 

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Yup, same thing I went thru on my reinstall this past Saturday. The belt would slip back one rib on me.

Are you using the timing pin???? If not then yeah it's going to be very hard to hold TDC.

I tried to bypass this step last Monday. Had to take everything apart again and this time I removed the exhaust to put the pin in. Now some say you can get the plug out without removing the exhaust but for my big hands it was easier.

This was the only way I can see to get that belt on by myself without effecting TDC. Man, you have been on this thing for 3 days, 2 more hours to take off and put back on. Save your self more furstration.

With the pin in I ued the 1/2" drive as I mentioned earlier to hold everything in place. Then tug hard around the idler pulley hold the belt on the exhaust cam and work it around the intake side. Took me about 10 minutes and 6 trys this way.

I tried to take the cams off first go around. They were a pain and did not want to risk further damage. I'd say you went a little to far with the air gun. Your risking a higher repair bill.

Good luck
 

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lhc_focus, it's be so superly awesomely tight if you made a how-to with pictures. We'd all love it....lol.

Just those couple photos already explained some of the things i had in my head because i've never looked at the side of a zetec up close before. Can't wait to get my hands in there though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have been using a TDC pin for the crank. I have made sure that the crank does not move at all. The only reason why I used an impact is because i called Ford and the engine tech there told me that he uses an impact to pip them loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok on 7. you stated to start on the exhaust cam. Now is the the first place you start and work you way counter clockwise to the crank or do you hook the belt on the crank first then go the the exhaust cam?

I just finished the same project on Saturday. Here's what I did

1. Did not need to take the sprockets off.
2. Took several minutes to get the cam bar in both. (has to be in)
3. I put the timing pin in. My belt ripped off 16 ribs and the timing ended up jumping 30+ degrees on me thus the reason for the pin. But it's still a good idea to put it in. I paint marked the crank sprocket to the engine. This way you will know if the crank moves.
4. Loosen the tensioner bolt 4 turns
5. The tab needs to be out, let it hang for now.
6. I had the 18mm socket with extension and 1/2" drive on the crank sprocket while my left leg kept in place to get the belt. But agian I was using the timing pin and this leverage pushed against the pin.
7. Keep tight pressure starting on the exhaust cam (front cam) and work your way around to the inlet cam (back cam) and end up going over the tensior. It takes alittle to get over the tensior but it does.
8. Then put the tab in the hole.
9. Take a 6mm allen wrench and align the fork looking thing to the mark on the tab.
10. Tighen the tensior bolt to recommended torque.
11. Now rotate the engine several turns to make sure everything is free.
12. You will notice the fork looking thing will move down, that's ok.

Now time to put everything together[lockdance]

I took alot of pics and notes and will put something together for others.

Good luck
 

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Put it around the crank, then around the idler, pulling I layed it around the exhaust cam, here's where it takes some techinque, my right had is on top of the exhaust holding the belt while tugging the belt around the inlet cam. Once I have that then wiggle it around the tensioner. Done.

If the ford guys do it that way, then I guess that's the way. Still kinda of scary. Lots of damage could occur.
 

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lhc_focus, it's be so superly awesomely tight if you made a how-to with pictures. We'd all love it....lol.

Just those couple photos already explained some of the things i had in my head because i've never looked at the side of a zetec up close before. Can't wait to get my hands in there though.
Thats my plan, organizing pics now, and laying it in word. It's gonna contain alot of pics so I might make into a pdf.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yaaa...I got it. Thanks for you advise ihc_focus. Ok so its up and running now. It seems to be ok but is there any way to know if it is truly timed coracle without using the tools after putting it all back together. The car dose seem to sound and feel a bit different but it could just be me. I did notice that before I took the old belt off I tested it to see if it was at TDC with both tools and it was a bit off. If could be running better and im just noticing that.
 

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Way to go. [cheers] Something else to check off the list of things you've done.

Well thats what I finally figured out. I'm a little slow on the up take. In my post Nate2006 was slapping me upside the head to put that pin in.

Before taking the belt off your suppose to find what you think is TDC.
Insert the cam bar, which can take several attempts, real tight tolerence.
I paint marked the crank sprocket to engine for a starting reference.
Remove belt
Insert timing pin
Rotate crank until you feel it stop against the pin. Now your at mechanical TDC without the belt. Paint mark the crank sprocket again if the crank moved.
It's criticle as you found out to make sure the crank does not turn when installing the belt.
If after installing the belt the last marks still line up your good to go.

If you have scanner that will read live data that's all I know. Does it look like the enigne is shaking some? I had to replace my P side motor mount, they are hydrualic and it was leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
There is very little shaking in the engine, nothing I didnt notice before. I drove it all day today and it seemed to cruse right along. I am giong to keep track of my gas mileage to see if it decreased or increased. I might be able to tell something by that.
 
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