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Shiny Metal Titanium
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I got my car last Tuesday. I have 800 miles on it, about 50/50 highway city I would say. Maybe a bit more on the highway/country road side. 65/35?

Anyhoo. At around 150-300 mi I had some shuddering. It seems to have gotten better as I haven't had it happen again as often. Just once the other day but it was just lumpy all around that was weird. Didn't happen after that.

I usually just drive in D
I've putted around town for a short amount of time in S and played with the shifty buttons including downshifting to slow down for a short while too
 

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We have two new 2013 SE's - one with the 201A option. They both have the Power Shift gearbox. We love the cars but have found the gearbox to still have some hesitation/stumbling in the low gears - first and second - but not all the time. You can also hear some clatter from the clutches (I presume) from time to time - particularly at low speed, during cornering - but not real loud. The gearbox seems to be improved from the issues reported for 2012 models. We understand the concept of the auto manual and it may be that driving style can help - we found that using the throttle will smooth out stumbling. However, it is a concern and surprising that Ford would take to market an unperfected concept like the Power Shift gearbox - especially from one year to the next. This is my tenth Ford in a row as a daily driver and I have faithfully stood by the brand. Time will tell how we feel about these cars and what we consider for the future.
 

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You were smart do get a 5-speed. I considered ordering my car that way but decided to buy a recent 2013 arrival with the Power Shift box. Especially since my son was buying one with the auto manual.
 

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I was smart at got the 5 speed. I have no problems.
It might be simpler than the DCT, but at the same time that lack of a second overdrive ratio really hurts fuel economy at higher speeds (i.e. above 55 mph). The DCT equipped car with the 16" wheels is turning over at around 2600 rpm at 70 mph, the 5MT car with the same 16" wheels is turning over 3000 rpm at 70 mph, or 374 more revolutions per minute, and the gap only increases at higher speeds.

It might be old and dependable, but the gear ratios on the 5MT were essentially the same as my old 1994 Geo Prizm LSI 1.6 L. But that car weighed in at close to 570 or more pounds lighter than the new one, ergo it would be easier on gas in the city than the newer car.
 

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It might be simpler than the DCT, but at the same time that lack of a second overdrive ratio really hurts fuel economy at higher speeds (i.e. above 55 mph). The DCT equipped car with the 16" wheels is turning over at around 2600 rpm at 70 mph, the 5MT car with the same 16" wheels is turning over 3000 rpm at 70 mph, or 374 more revolutions per minute, and the gap only increases at higher speeds.

It might be old and dependable, but the gear ratios on the 5MT were essentially the same as my old 1994 Geo Prizm LSI 1.6 L. But that car weighed in at close to 570 or more pounds lighter than the new one, ergo it would be easier on gas in the city than the newer car.
I was just wondering if 17'' wheels on a DCT equipped car would lower that 2600 rpm even more?
Also, can I install 17'' tires but with slightly higher profile - thus increasing overall wheel diameter and lowering rpm's even more on highway? [scratch] e.g. instead of standard 215/50R17 put 215/55R17 or 215/60R17 or even 215/65R17
 

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I was just wondering if 17'' wheels on a DCT equipped car would lower that 2600 rpm even more?
Also, can I install 17'' tires but with slightly higher profile - thus increasing overall wheel diameter and lowering rpm's even more on highway? [scratch] e.g. instead of standard 215/50R17 put 215/55R17 or 215/60R17 or even 215/65R17
Yes. And it should result in better highway mileage and worse city mileage. But considering these transmissions seem to be sensitive when stock, I'd hardly recommend anyone put much more loading on the transmission... Also, you have to be careful with rubbing when turning, hitting bumps, etc.

Most places don't recommend anything more than a 3% variance than stock.
 

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Yes. And it should result in better highway mileage and worse city mileage. But considering these transmissions seem to be sensitive when stock, I'd hardly recommend anyone put much more loading on the transmission... Also, you have to be careful with rubbing when turning, hitting bumps, etc.
Thanks. However, why city mileage will decrease slightly? If there is enough torq from 2.0 GDI engine on lower rpms - then city mileage should also slightly increase, no (since wheels have to be turned less to cover same distance)?
 

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We have two new 2013 SE's - one with the 201A option. They both have the Power Shift gearbox. We love the cars but have found the gearbox to still have some hesitation/stumbling in the low gears - first and second - but not all the time. You can also hear some clatter from the clutches (I presume) from time to time - particularly at low speed, during cornering - but not real loud. The gearbox seems to be improved from the issues reported for 2012 models. We understand the concept of the auto manual and it may be that driving style can help - we found that using the throttle will smooth out stumbling. However, it is a concern and surprising that Ford would take to market an unperfected concept like the Power Shift gearbox - especially from one year to the next. This is my tenth Ford in a row as a daily driver and I have faithfully stood by the brand. Time will tell how we feel about these cars and what we consider for the future.
(emphasis added on key point)

It's interesting they fixed issues in the 2012 model, but did not support 2012 owners by retrofitting what must obviously be legitimate issues since you claim they were fixed in the 2013 model. But which specific issues would those be? (e.g. the blender noise almost everyone seems to get...)

Thanks for the post!
 

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Does 2013 ST comes with the same DCT? If so, then this transmission should be strong enough to put up with STs torque. Also, I know that in Europe Ford Focus 3 comes with 140hp 2.0 Diesel engine with almost twice as more torque than gasoline engine - and they have the same Powershift transmission. I'm implying that this transmission is manual after all (without any torque convertors) and should be strong enough to withstand heavy duty usage. On the other hand - it really seems to be delicate on slow speeds - seems to me that is more software issue than anything else?
 

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I was just wondering if 17'' wheels on a DCT equipped car would lower that 2600 rpm even more?
Also, can I install 17'' tires but with slightly higher profile - thus increasing overall wheel diameter and lowering rpm's even more on highway? [scratch] e.g. instead of standard 215/50R17 put 215/55R17 or 215/60R17 or even 215/65R17
No, the stock 17" tires have essentially the same rolling radius when compressed (within a few tenths of an inch), so while the calculation would show possibly a few rpm less on the freeway its not enough to be noticible.

Yes. And it should result in better highway mileage and worse city mileage. But considering these transmissions seem to be sensitive when stock, I'd hardly recommend anyone put much more loading on the transmission... Also, you have to be careful with rubbing when turning, hitting bumps, etc.

Most places don't recommend anything more than a 3% variance than stock.
The taller tire would effectively gear it taller, meanining the car would have to work harder to over come the inertia, so although it would be easier to maintain higher speeds perhaps, it will be harder to start off, hurting city fuel economy proportionally.

Thanks. However, why city mileage will decrease slightly? If there is enough torq from 2.0 GDI engine on lower rpms - then city mileage should also slightly increase, no (since wheels have to be turned less to cover same distance)?
The taller tires gear the car up more, a taller gear is bad for acceleration, the drivetrain will have to work harder to overcome the extra inertia.
 

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Does 2013 ST comes with the same DCT? If so, then this transmission should be strong enough to put up with STs torque. Also, I know that in Europe Ford Focus 3 comes with 140hp 2.0 Diesel engine with almost twice as more torque than gasoline engine - and they have the same Powershift transmission. I'm implying that this transmission is manual after all (without any torque convertors) and should be strong enough to withstand heavy duty usage. On the other hand - it really seems to be delicate on slow speeds - seems to me that is more software issue than anything else?
No, the ST is only available with a 6 speed manual transmision, no automatic or DCT available. Only the wet clutch variant could handle the torque but that version is limited to Europe and the rest of the world.
 

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We have a 12 SE sedan and a 13 SE sedan. Only difference i can feel and hear is the 2013 when you slow down to a stop the idle stays at 1000 rpm then drops to normal idle. The 12 ( early Dec. 2011 build has not been updated ) does not do this. The 13 seems to be smoother when you make a rolling almost stop then go again. The 1000 rpm seems to make the difference. Both have been quiet and smooth from day 1.


Not sent from .................[smackbum]
 

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I WILL correct you.
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I now have 2200 miles on my '13. Absolutely zero problems from the minute I picked it up. It's crisp, smooth, and responds to input well.
 

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Good points. Putting aside the low gear and low speed symptoms mentioned earlier, once the DCT goes beyond second gear it works very well. It is very good at highway speeds from 70 to 80 mph. No problems whatsoever and the RPMs are below 3000 when crusing at those speeds. The car is well designed, engineered and built. The DCT is still somewhat quirky in the low gears but it seems better than what most folks experienced with the 2012s. Time will tell how it works out...
 

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I have a 2013 Focus Titanium with 1300 miles and no major DCT issues or complaints.

In fact, I like the DCT. It creeps forward and backwards like a conventional automatic and on hills, it doesn't drop back like a manual. S mode is great if you want it to hold revs or just want to accelerate faster. From a stop, if you're really light on the throttle, it can be jerky from 1st to 2nd but if you drive normally or have a lead foot, it's smooth and there is no power loss between shifts. If you accelerate, lift off, accelerate and repeat, you can trick it and it can be jerky but no one should be driving like that. At low speeds, it can "rattle" a tiny bit but it's not bothersome and completely normal. My 2011 Mazda3's DI engine rattled more. I've averaged about 27-29 mpg city driving and I've got about 38 mpg on the highway.
 

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(emphasis added on key point)

It's interesting they fixed issues in the 2012 model, but did not support 2012 owners by retrofitting what must obviously be legitimate issues since you claim they were fixed in the 2013 model. But which specific issues would those be? (e.g. the blender noise almost everyone seems to get...)

Thanks for the post!
I don't think he stated that he was sure anything really changed. His description of his transmission's performance mimics my 2012 build date 25 May almost to a T.
 
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