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If you had a problem fixed under warranty and it comes back. You are still covered because the repair didn't fix the problem.
Wish it was that easy. I've even had the problem escalated and the rep called and basically said its up to the shop if they wanna do it. If everyone says no because you're outta warranty then tough excrement :/
 

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I have a Premium Care warranty on this car that has not expired. Has anyone else had to pay this cost for lubing the struts?
Hi bkosborne,

I'm here to help. Send over a PM with your full name, phone number, VIN, up-to-date mileage, and servicing dealership; I'll loop in your regional customer service manager.

Wish it was that easy. I've even had the problem escalated and the rep called and basically said its up to the shop if they wanna do it. If everyone says no because you're outta warranty then tough excrement :/
Hi cj15917,

I've updated your case notes to reflect the latest here. Have you brought your vehicle into the dealership after speaking with your CSM via email?

Todd
 

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Hi bkosborne,

I'm here to help. Send over a PM with your full name, phone number, VIN, up-to-date mileage, and servicing dealership; I'll loop in your regional customer service manager.



Hi cj15917,

I've updated your case notes to reflect the latest here. Have you brought your vehicle into the dealership after speaking with your CSM via email?

Todd
No Todd I didn't. I explained to her that it is a 120 mile round trip to my dealer and I was in there 3 days before emailing them for shuddering and grinding. Right now the car is fine. Which is the problem. I have to wait until it screws up again. I asked about a good faith buyback and they reviewed my case. Apparently 3 clutch packs , dozen plus resets and updates, suspension issues and a horn no longer working in the first year and a half of ownership isn't enough because it was denied. It is what it is. Next time around I won't be so quick to shop with the blue oval.
 

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I've been having the clunk noise in the front of my 2012 focus for a few months, getting a bit worse over time. It's most noticeable over speedbumps, and sometimes when turning right.

I took it in today, and they confirmed the presence of the noise and said it was the strut. They said they'd have to lube all the moving parts for something like $160, and if that doesn't fix it, they would have to replace parts and that would be covered under warranty.

I have a Premium Care warranty on this car that has not expired. Has anyone else had to pay this cost for lubing the struts?
160? Under warranty?
Sounds like youre being lubed..
 

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Hey Zillow, looks like you spent a lot of time researching the "CLUNK" problem on our focus rides. Mine is a 2/12 build on a titanium hatchback with the "CLUNK" on deceleration, which you can feel when it occurs, and a clunk or creaking on acceleration. Did you finally find the fix? I have spent my life rebuilding and restoring cars, and some time turning wrenches on aircraft as I am also an A&P aircraft mechanic, but I gotta tell you this one has got me stumped. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!! Larry
 

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Hey fellas I positively fixed the Clunk noise in my Focus, although it was a real pain to fix. I removed the front subframe and replaced the bushings in the subframe. The bushings have rubber rings on both sides, when the rubber gets a little worn, or hard it allows the subframe to move back and forth contacting the subrame attaching bolts and causing a "clunk" sound. the bushing inside diameter is quite a big larger than the bolt diameter going through the bushing. I found some plastic tubing to line the bolts with to effectively stop the clunking should the subframe ever get to the point where it moves again. I do have a way to "shortcut" fix the problem, if anyone is interested, I will pass on the info. If your "clunk" is related to the movement of the subframe, this should fix it. I do have all the torque values for reinstalling the subframe if needed. thanks.
 

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Hey fellas I positively fixed the Clunk noise in my Focus, although it was a real pain to fix. I removed the front subframe and replaced the bushings in the subframe. The bushings have rubber rings on both sides, when the rubber gets a little worn, or hard it allows the subframe to move back and forth contacting the subrame attaching bolts and causing a "clunk" sound. the bushing inside diameter is quite a big larger than the bolt diameter going through the bushing. I found some plastic tubing to line the bolts with to effectively stop the clunking should the subframe ever get to the point where it moves again. I do have a way to "shortcut" fix the problem, if anyone is interested, I will pass on the info. If your "clunk" is related to the movement of the subframe, this should fix it. I do have all the torque values for reinstalling the subframe if needed. thanks.
I would be interested in more details.
Is there a way to tell if this is the problem?
Thanks
Ryan
 

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Hello Ryan
If this is the area your clunking noise is coming from, you might remove the rear subframe bolts where you might find evidence on the bolts themselves that they have been contacting the bushings themselves. the bushings do have metal on the inside diameter, so the bolt contacting the bushing would be metal to metal leaving a mark on the bolt. Mine did show evidence of contact. MY noise began with a "creaking" sound on acceleration, which I believe was the rubber of the bushing rubbing against the body. My noise advanced to the clunking noise made on acceleration and deceleration. Movement of the subframe could be felt when the clunking noise was heard. I used a mechanics stethoscope with modified tubes long enough to attach the stethoscope to the area of the rear attach bolt and bushing and listen from the drivers seat as I accelerated and stopped abruptly duplicating the noise in my ear. The noise could be coming from either or both of the rear mounts. Hope this helps. Let me know if I can be of any further help. Larry
 

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Maybe they do but are not willing to do it without some encouragement. Ask them whether replacing the struts, bearings, and springs with the ones for a 2014 would fix it. I still have not heard anything certain about this, but have also seen no reports from owners of 2014s with this problem.
I have a 2014 Ford Focus Titanium built in late September that has this noise!
Did you ever find what was causing the noise in yours?

I'm selfishly hoping it was caused by some unique defect in your car rather than something common to all 2014s built at particular time.
 

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I have a 2013 Titanium, Job 1 (built September 2012).

During my 3 years warranty, I went 3-4 times for suspension. All they did was greasing the strut like they say to do in the TSB.

The problem came back in February of this year. I greased the struts again but the problem didn't go away.

Two weeks ago, the tech suggested to change both front lower control arm. Well, it did indeed solve the problem. The sound it made was the same as the TSB. But different parts.
 

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Two weeks ago, the tech suggested to change both front lower control arm. Well, it did indeed solve the problem.
Now that it's getting warmer, I’m going to be tackling this repair in a few weeks!

If I’m replacing the LCA for the clunk, should I replace the strut bearing too since it’s the original 2012 design prone to clunking?

BUT... if I’m taking the strut apart to replace the plastic bearing piece, should I just replace the entire strut considering I’m over 140k miles? There’s nothing wrong with them, but a lot of people on here recommend replacing them often even though it’s kind of against my mantra to replace something that's not broken.
 

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Now that it's getting warmer, I’m going to be tackling this repair in a few weeks!

If I’m replacing the LCA for the clunk, should I replace the strut bearing too since it’s the original 2012 design prone to clunking?

BUT... if I’m taking the strut apart to replace the plastic bearing piece, should I just replace the entire strut considering I’m over 140k miles? There’s nothing wrong with them, but a lot of people on here recommend replacing them often even though it’s kind of against my mantra to replace something that's not broken.
At 140k miles they should need replacement.. especially if you DIY might as well change them all

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
 

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Just checked - even the OEM struts/coils are pretty cheap. I haven't decided if I'll keep the Ti Handling package or go touring this time around.
 

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I have a 2013 Titanium, Job 1 (built September 2012).

During my 3 years warranty, I went 3-4 times for suspension. All they did was greasing the strut like they say to do in the TSB.

The problem came back in February of this year. I greased the struts again but the problem didn't go away.

Two weeks ago, the tech suggested to change both front lower control arm. Well, it did indeed solve the problem. The sound it made was the same as the TSB. But different parts.
I had to replace my lower control arms on my 2012 Ti at 45K miles! Bushings were completely broken. Pretty sad for that age and miles.
 

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Now that it's getting warmer, I’m going to be tackling this repair in a few weeks!

If I’m replacing the LCA for the clunk, should I replace the strut bearing too since it’s the original 2012 design prone to clunking?

BUT... if I’m taking the strut apart to replace the plastic bearing piece, should I just replace the entire strut considering I’m over 140k miles? There’s nothing wrong with them, but a lot of people on here recommend replacing them often even though it’s kind of against my mantra to replace something that's not broken.
If I were you, I'd replace them. I had the driver side replaced under warranty and the passenger side was done at the same I did my lower control arm because it was broken. My car has only 56 000 KM which is ~35 000 Miles.

I had to replace my lower control arms on my 2012 Ti at 45K miles! Bushings were completely broken. Pretty sad for that age and miles.
Tell me about it. I have 56 000 KM which is ~35 000 Miles. I've never seen bushing so destroyed AND young... What suprise me is the manager and the mechanic was acting like it was normal after ~4 years. I hope that I won't have to replace them again in 4 years.
 
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