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Third Day - in the seventies temp wise - no noise!
 

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I'm pretty sure that within a couple days my rattle/clunk will be back. It started hinting in at it this afternoon, and tonight I heard it a couple times. It always goes like this.... Putting it on a lift fixes it for a certain amount of time, and when you hit a certain bump things shift into position where two parts are hitting each other. It gets worse and worse till you lift it to look at it...which fixes it for a bit. Very annoying.
 

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Sorry to hear that. Since you seem adverse to trying the grease method, and thinking about your Velcro approach, may I suggest another option? Seems plausible to me that if one were to use some thinly constructed felt material, it could easily be cut to length (z-height) and wrapped around the shaft below the bump-stop. Then you could slowly work the felt up into the bump-stop with a popsicle stick or something else thin and safe against the shaft surface, with the goal of isolating the ID of the bump-stop from the shaft as much as possible. I bet you could find some suitable isolation material at a craft store like Michaels or what-have-you.

Just a thought...


I'm pretty sure that within a couple days my rattle/clunk will be back. It started hinting in at it this afternoon, and tonight I heard it a couple times. It always goes like this.... Putting it on a lift fixes it for a certain amount of time, and when you hit a certain bump things shift into position where two parts are hitting each other. It gets worse and worse till you lift it to look at it...which fixes it for a bit. Very annoying.
 

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actually velcro is exactly that a felt lining that wraps around the shaft. The way i did it, i cut it out so that there were two straps that wrap around and attach to each other on the outside so it can't slip out of there.

The way i did it there is still an area that does not have felt/velcro between the hard plastic ring. Only the thin strap is between the ring and the shaft, so i am going to put another piece of felt or velcro to further insult the hard plastic ring. Right now, the sound is greatly improved three days later, so adding more insulation to the ring could very well finish off the sound:)
 

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first of all i apologize for my bad English.

I would like to tell you that Thai drivers found the same problem, right front suspension noise and Ford engineer said they can't find out the problem.

My opinion, i don't think it will be problem of bump stop, engine mount, e.g. but i think it must be some problems of car design. It is not possible that problem of European or north amarica's shock absorber, engine mounted, e.g. will be occurred here in Thailand because many common parts are produced here. Most of drivers notice that noise is come from right side. Is it mean these parts of all around the world of new focus has same problem ?! No , impossible.

We need to force to Ford to solve this problem because new Focus is not cheap car . We should get good quality product with the money we pay to them.
 

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First up, don't apologize about your command of the English language - you are doing just fine.

Personally I won't further any discussions about how Ford is treating chassis/fitment/noise related issues, as there are plenty of examples detailed at length just on this site alone. Ford bureaucracy is no different than many other big corporate systems. If the problem is hard & fast repeatable, you stand a much better chance of having a dealership address it; add any level of intermittent behavior to it and the whole ball of wax gets really complicated. Demonstrable modes of failure are typically well handled by most big companies; Ford is no better, no worse than most IMHO.

With regard to reported front-end noise issues in general, it has become readily apparent that there are multiple categories of noise complaints that vary with regard to source or mode. With that said, the "bump-stop" category is real and solved. Examples have been presented. Are there other areas of slop in the design, I'll be the first to admit that it's not even up for any debate - cars, like so many other things in life, simply are not perfect. The designs are an extension of the human condition of "less than perfect". Clunks, rattles and noises can come from many sources; certainly not just the bump-stop.

Over time, the individual categories of "slop" in the design specifics of the Ford Focus will come to light and be fleshed out as more & more owners discuss their experiences.. On my vehicle, the bump-stop was the culprit and thanks to the creative thinking and action of one Dysan, this particular mode of failure (category) can be effectively addressed in a very simple & direct fashion - no matter who performs the corrective action. The beauty of it is that if someone suspects that this might be their issue, it is relatively cheap to address. If it doesn't work and it was truly applied correctly as a fix, then you still benefit from the process of elimination. I mean, come on, 12, 15 bucks and less than a hour of your time? No brainier..

Like any science or physics project, you have to define the condition, understand it well enough to formulate a set of potential solutions and then apply those solutions in a controlled fashion until a "net effect" yields some positive results. Driver side "bump-stop" interference has been identified and after many months, one solution for one particular mode of failure has finally been proven out. Anyone that has had one or more instance of suspension parts replaced by a dealer without any remedy, well, they are more than likely experiencing some other, completely different mode of failure..and I wish them the best in getting it sorted out - because a car that doesn't operate satisfactorily to ones expectations is a really upsetting situation to find yourself in...especially for the cost of ownership.



first of all i apologize for my bad English.

I would like to tell you that Thai drivers found the same problem, right front suspension noise and Ford engineer said they can't find out the problem.

My opinion, i don't think it will be problem of bump stop, engine mount, e.g. but i think it must be some problems of car design. It is not possible that problem of European or north amarica's shock absorber, engine mounted, e.g. will be occurred here in Thailand because many common parts are produced here. Most of drivers notice that noise is come from right side. Is it mean these parts of all around the world of new focus has same problem ?! No , impossible.

We need to force to Ford to solve this problem because new Focus is not cheap car . We should get good quality product with the money we pay to them.
 

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Might want to wait a bit before declaring the problem solved:)
Mine goes away sometimes for a couple weeks just by lifting the car. Your sound could come back too:)

I would give it a month.
I Thought I fixed mine with a credit card wedged under the tower brace. It was fixed 100% for four whole weeks only to return 100% five minutes after the dealer lifted the car to rotate the tires.....
 

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Might want to wait a bit before declaring the problem solved:)
Mine goes away sometimes for a couple weeks just by lifting the car. Your sound could come back too:)

I would give it a month.
I Thought I fixed mine with a credit card wedged under the tower brace. It was fixed 100% for four whole weeks only to return 100% five minutes after the dealer lifted the car to rotate the tires.....
I've had my car lifted three times since purchase and the noise never went away after nor did it get any worse. I'll also note for the record that my car has never gone a whole day without rattling - just some days more than others if left to it's own devices. For the fix, I only jacked it up this weekend - not lifted - and I don't need to be told that it isn't fixed. It was making the noise all morning until I sat down and did the "Dysan method". It is gone and the sound of the bump-stop has changed significantly when tapped by hand or with a tool.

It is very likely that what you are fighting isn't the same issue. It's casual.
No one has proclaimed a "one size fix fits all" as there are multiple places for noise to originate in a front-end.

I could trigger the noise through purposeful turns, tapping the brakes, driving up a particular road that was a tad bit rough and on an incline and finally by loading the vehicle with a seated driver (duh) and another person sitting in the back seat, behind the passenger seat thereby creating some suspension imbalance. Pretty simple stuff to execute. None of those scenarios are bringing back the sound post-fix.

The credit card solution never made sense to me; at least not for THIS issue. And it didn't do jack-squat on my vehicle.
Intermittent issues only con-volute the true understanding of what could be going on here. My opinion is that people can talk themselves into believing whatever if they don't use a scientific method.

4th day, mid-seventies temp wise, and no noise.

I'll forgo reporting on this everyday; for your satisfaction I will report back in 1 months time..

Suspend your disbelief and get on to lubing that bump-stop in a complete manner or have a dealership do it dude!
 

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I was hoping very much that my method would have resolved Lip's noise and was disappointed to hear it didn't help. I wish you were closer by Lip, I'd offer to help tear into things with you to find the source. I believe you already told us you did in fact try my method exactly the way myself and Blaze implemented it and the noise came back.

FWIW, My noise never went away for days on end with just lifting the front end. I could always reproduce it by knowing what bumps to hit, What bumpy turns set it off, etc. Which was part of what made my fix so encouraging when after greasing the bump stops those same conditions produced zero noise.

Also for FWIW. It's been over a month for me and not even the slightest hint of that clunk has returned.
 

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It's awesome that Dysan found a fix but here's my situation:

I live in an apartment and don't really have the space or tools necessary to properly do this. The local Ford dealership has acknowledged the sound and are willing/trying to find a fix, how can I best suggest this as a fix? "Grease the bump-stop?" "Put velcro on the bump-stop?" Will they laugh me off the service ramp?
 

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Tools? The syringe is 3 odd bucks at Walmart. Grease will set you back less than the cost of a pair of replacement wiper blades. Other than that, the jack and the tool to take off your tire is provided with the car.

The expense is way less than a single tank of gas.
The time to perform the procedure is negligible.
Finding a place to DIY can't be that difficult.

Anyone that isn't serious about giving it a shot by simply doing it, and doing it thoroughly, isn't serious enough about trying to move beyond being upset
with the issue..

A reasonable dealership will go the grease route; Velcro they will pass on...no doubt about it. Application of grease to the top of the strut tower/bearing area has already been described on this site so it is safe to say that any reasonable dealership would try a bump-stop focused endeavor as an alternative. The key component in getting a service department to address the issue starts with them acknowledging the presence of the noise to begin with...that is biggest hurdle IMHO.


It's awesome that Dysan found a fix but here's my situation:

I live in an apartment and don't really have the space or tools necessary to properly do this. The local Ford dealership has acknowledged the sound and are willing/trying to find a fix, how can I best suggest this as a fix? "Grease the bump-stop?" "Put velcro on the bump-stop?" Will they laugh me off the service ramp?
 

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I'm not sure, is this a problem ONLY with Titaniums? With or without Handling Package? I've read a lot of this thread, but there are over 2000 posts, so I can't be sure. Could it be fixed by changing the struts to aftermarket ones? Just curious.
 

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I'm not sure, is this a problem ONLY with Titaniums? With or without Handling Package? I've read a lot of this thread, but there are over 2000 posts, so I can't be sure. Could it be fixed by changing the struts to aftermarket ones? Just curious.
It's been a problem on others as well. I have an SEL Hatch. Based on a Survey that was done earlier in the thread, it was limited (at least perceived) to certain production dates, and not limited to body style of trim level really. I recall SE, SEL and Titanium's all on that list/survey results.

Aftermarkets had been tried, by more than one, and a slew of other aftermarket and replacement parts. Didn't fix the issue.
 

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Tools? The syringe is 3 odd bucks at Walmart. Grease will set you back less than the cost of a pair of replacement wiper blades. Other than that, the jack and the tool to take off your tire is provided with the car.

The expense is way less than a single tank of gas.
The time to perform the procedure is negligible.
Finding a place to DIY can't be that difficult.

Anyone that isn't serious about giving it a shot by simply doing it, and doing it thoroughly, isn't serious enough about trying to move beyond being upset
with the issue..

A reasonable dealership will go the grease route; Velcro they will pass on...no doubt about it. Application of grease to the top of the strut tower/bearing area has already been described on this site so it is safe to say that a reasonable dealership would try a bump-stop focused endeavor as an alternative. The key component in getting a service department to address the issue starts with them acknowledging the presence of the noise to begin with...that is biggest hurdle IMHO.
What it boils down to is that I don't think I should have to do any work on this car to repair something that should be covered under warranty and that is the result of either a poor design or a poorly manufactured material. It seems like it's only working for a few of those attempting the procedure anyway.

That being said, for the benefit of the group and those experiencing similar issues it seems like it would be beneficial for each of us having these issues to get the dealerships to test this method because then it's documented and easily accessible to the engineers at Ford. If a dealership is attempting a procedure that fixes the clunk then it seems like that might spark a chain of events that ultimately results in a TSB for those with this issue. It's great we have Ford "reps" trolling the forums but are they doing anything short of making phone calls to CSMs?
 

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Im having dealer replace the TSB springs and install new set of springs from factory (not TSB parts)
Found the TSB springs softer than the original, they took away from the handling...
Also dealer will do the lube at the same time with install, they said they have heard of this technique before (although not for the focus) should I ask for a specific lube?

-also pls pls comment what you think on TSB springs if you had the TSB done, do you think car got just softer, lost bit of the solid handlng it had? If you had only one side applied hows the drive.. Does it pull on the TSB side vs the non-TSB side (say when you take off a red light..)
Thx!
 

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-also pls pls comment what you think on TSB springs if you had the TSB done, do you think car got just softer, lost bit of the solid handlng it had? If you had only side applied hows the drive.. Does it pull on the TSB side vs the non-TSB side (say when you take off a red light..)
Thx!
I had the driver side TSB done ... a while ago now, and I haven't noticed any pull or distinct loss in handling. Still drives straight as an arrow, which is amazing with all the pot holes around here anyways.
 

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I had the driver side TSB done ... a while ago now, and I haven't noticed any pull or distinct loss in handling. Still drives straight as an arrow, which is amazing with all the pot holes around here anyways.
I definitely noticed a bit softer ride.. Going over same roads/potholes you could tell.. - maybe version makes a difference mine was with the SE sprt suspension...
 

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I definitely noticed a bit softer ride.. Going over same roads/potholes you could tell.. - maybe version makes a difference mine was with the SE sprt suspension...
I'll look at my dealer report from when it was done. If anyone knows off the top of their head, was the TSB part # different than the stock part #?
 

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What it boils down to is that I don't think I should have to do any work on this car to repair something that should be covered under warranty and that is the result of either a poor design or a poorly manufactured material. It seems like it's only working for a few of those attempting the procedure anyway.
Can't argue with who should do it. If you stand on principal that Ford should address it, then wandering the blog-o-sphere on it won't achieve much other than creating a never-ending bully pulpit of consternation. Go work it with the dealership and enjoy the time spent. I have faith some dealerships are more reasonable than others. I get the point about it being a "Ford thing" to fix. No argument there. But the task is so damned simple, most people on this forum have spent way more time & personal energy going circles around it than the time it takes to simply hunker down & do it. You have to choose your battles in life. Again, for me, this was a no-brainer to attempt on my own. If it didn't work, I would have simply moved on to other avenues.

As far as the "statistical" proof against the fix, one must not assume that anyone that has said "..didn't work for me.." did it right to begin with. Heck, some folks tried using thinner Lithium grease.
Not surprised that didn't work TBH. As simple as the procedure sounds, if you don't hit the contact point with (enough) grease to isolate the interference and deaden the bump-stop, does that make it an invalid solution? Don't think so..
And let's not forget that a good percentage of people complaining about "a noise" are in fact dealing with something completely unrelated.

This stuff isn't rocket science folks - hell - I did it! [:eek:)]

And in review of your original posting, I had responded to, and now with this one - it would appear you are simply moving the goal posts and making little excuses;
Apartment living; no tools; will I get laughed off the dealership property; not my issue; the fix is not working for everyone and it boils down to this...type stuff.
Sorry, can't help with those types of moving target issues.
 
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