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Does anyone have a picture/diagram of the preferred LIFT points for the FRONT of a 2012 sedan? I DO NOT want the jacking points that are called out in the owner's manual. I want to know the LIFT points that are usually pictured in the SHOP manuals (which aren't in publication yet).

I don't want guesses here. I want somebody to answer who has actually had a 2012 on a lift, probably someone who works at a dealership.
 

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Usually there are frame horns, heavy box sections that run diagonally more or less front-back, and they flare-out as they get to the front, to be at the base of the fender aprons.

I have a 4" deep wideflange I beam, with a short length of of 13/16" coldrolled barstock (round stock) welded on to the flange of the I beam, mid-length. I put the I beam / 13/16 "nubb" in place of the swivel pad of my floor jack. I drive the car up onto ramps, and then when up, I lift the jack up, put some dunnage / "packing" (as the Brittons say) between the Wideflange and those frame rails -- and away I go.

For the back, same thing, though my piece of Wideflange is wider.. i.e. to the full width of the rocker panels. I pick up the back, starting with the ramps, and then I lift the rockerpanels right in front of the rear wheels. I have rubber-line blocks, that straddle the rockerpanel weld seam.

This is a pretty standard way of lifting almost any car with independent rear susp, or without a main front crossmember.
 

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The "jack points" ARE the "official" lift points...

As mentioned, "dunnage" helps prevent damage - MY trick, borrowed from others, is to use hockey pucks to cushion the contact points - works better than my prev. habit of using soft pine in various sizes as needed...

On earlier models, you COULD lift the front all at once at the crossmember where the "dogbone" connects to it (official lift point) - the "issue" is that it doesn't balance there - so you have to let it down slow onto jack stands under the side jack points since they won't contact at the same time...

Luck!
 
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