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I have a 2012 Ford Focus se. I had bad gas but I’ve dropped the tank and put it back in already. New spark plugs were added but I still have the same problem as when I found out about the bad gas. It will only start with starting fluid and when it does the rpm revs up the shuts back down. If it doesn’t do that then it goes to .5rpm and just jumps till it dies back down. I have good gas in there now and still same problem. I don’t have a factory warranty and my power train warranty doesn’t cover any repairs. Check engine light cuts on then back off from time to time. No codes are read and the transmission light is on. If anyone can help this would be greatly appreciated. I’m believing fuel injectors are next to replace but I’m hoping they aren’t the problem as I just lost my job due this problem. I can hear the fuel pump going but it is quieter than before I took the tank out. I’m running out of options. I don’t have money for a tow truck to take it to a shop. Even if I did I wouldn’t be able to pay them neither. I got it 2 months ago and it had 42k miles. I do a lot of driving so now it has 47k miles but the low amount of miles makes me believe there is something bigger that is a problem.
 

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I was told that now i have to release the air from fuel line and repressurize it. Someone said find the schraider valve and release it there while having someone prime the fuel pump. I dont even know where it is on the vehicle. Can anyone help?
 

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Is it supposed to have a banjo bolt or schrader valve on fuel line?
Should have the bicycle style valve. Turn key on, pump will prime. Push open valve and it will spit out the air. Do this until its all fuel no air. So, on then off, push valve. On then off, push the valve. and so on. It takes a couple seconds for the pump to stop, so wait that long. You can usually hear the pump buzz then stop. Bad fuel can plug up fuel filter, pump, pressure sensor, injectors, almost all the fuel system. I would change the fuel filter, or if you already did, take it out and drain the filter and fill it full with a good injector cleaner, put it back in and try to start it with that. Get all that air out first. Full dose of cleaner with no fuel will clean out the system.
 

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Where exactly is that located and how do I push the valve? right now i was pushing the air out running the pump but before it hits the other pump under the hood. The filter is lifetime and is in the tank. says it doesnt need replacing or cleaning, couldnt get to it even if i wanted to. But you think this will work?
 

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... I’m believing fuel injectors are next to replace...
That sounds like a bad idea, -considering your no start & those symptoms. Advance key to On, and then check your fuel system pressure using a scan tool. Looking for ~40 to 45 psi. Separately, you can check fuel system pressure using an external analog gauge, but this requires some special adapters to TEE into the fuel lines.

I was told that now i have to release the air from fuel line and repressurize it...
Nope. I have never heard that advice on these cars. I have replaced my fuel filter twice and fuel injectors once and never needed to "release air". Key to On a few times, crank once or twice extra, and it fires right-up.

Is it supposed to have a banjo bolt or schrader valve on fuel line?
No. There are a very-few older Foci that do have a schrader on the fuel rail, but these are very rare. 2000-2003(?) and not many of these have em'. If there are newer Foci with a schrader, this would be new news for me.

Should have the bicycle style valve...
It (2012) should not have a schrader valve. Still waiting for news about this valve that should be there BUT is not.

... fuel filter...
Yeah, good idea. Most car owners forget to replace the fuel filter as part of preventative maintenance. Most-most important after a new fuel pump.

...The filter is lifetime and is in the tank...
I am fairly dumb when it comes to newer (MK3) Foci, and I did not know the 2012 does not have an external fuel filter. Are you sure about that?
 

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His Focus has direct injection it's more complicated. What was this bad fuel situation? I'm sorry for your job loss sounds like a crappy employer that doesn't understand. If you worked where I work somebody would have picked you up and took you.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 

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His Focus has direct injection it's more complicated. What was this bad fuel situation? I'm sorry for your job loss sounds like a crappy employer that doesn't understand. If you worked where I work somebody would have picked you up and took you.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using FF Mobile
Ima make this short. I had bad gas so i tried to burn some out but it didnt go well. So I dropped the tank and drained it. I put it back in and now someone is tell me that i have to release the air in the line before it hits the high pressure pump under the hood. Doing so by turning key to run the fuel pump thats integrated with the tank. I was told that when i have a significant amount of fuel to put the line back in the high pressure fuel pump and unhook the other end of it so fuel runs through it. (Method Ill be trying today). I know it was bad fuel because it was green and brown.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That sounds like a bad idea, -considering your no start & those symptoms. Advance key to On, and then check your fuel system pressure using a scan tool. Looking for ~40 to 45 psi. Separately, you can check fuel system pressure using an external analog gauge, but this requires some special adapters to TEE into the fuel lines.
Lol how do i do this? Im not a mechanic i just know how to work on cars but no, not a mechanic. I think i only know so much of what to do because i have 1991 jeep cherokee also. Im putting a lot of work into it but still not a mechanic lol.
 

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Lol how do i do this?...
Again, THE primary way to test fuel pressure (FP) is via scan tool. However, if you wanna know (how I did it) how to test FP using an external pressure gauge, here is the story...

De-pressure the fuel system. Remove the OEM fuel line from the firewall to the fuel rail (hose seen below wrapped in silver padded tape). Now use a home-made fuel line that has a TEE in the middle (also shown in the picture) which connects TO & FROM the same points as the OEM hose did. BTW the TEE has a single schrader valve integrated into it. Now connect a fuel pressure gauge onto the TEE. Turn on key. Vent air from test hose as needed. Test can be done while engine is on or off. Last step is very important! ->> Place homemade test hose in garage and wonder if it will ever be used again before you die.

After I did this test, I found the proper quick-disconnect connectors for the ends of the test hose. Shown in the other picture.

His Focus has direct injection...
I did not know that. Thanks. Does this prevent someone from using a test hose (as described above)? Also, does anyone have test values (psi) of normal FP in a Focus with direct injection DI <psi as per scan tool>? Guessing the values are the same as my older non-DI engine ~35-45 psi... but the DI has TWO pumps? Far-out man.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Oh ok I see what you mean. Now the fuel rail is hard to find. The line coming from the pump in the tank goes directly to the high pressure fuel pump then directly to the engine. The fuel barely leaks out going into the HPFP, so today im going unhook it at both ends and blast air through it to see if there is any blockage. Then im gonna run the pump before i reconnect it to see how much fuel comes out. The pump seems good but im not sure. I replaced the positive battery line because it was extremely corroded all through the wire. Too bad i brought from dealer as is.
 

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Okay just for the hell of it unplug your fuel pressure sensor connector. On my Fiesta ST Forum a guy was having a lot of fuel delivery issues a lot of parts were replaced it was the fuel pressure sensor the whole time.

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Discussion Starter #15
As im looking at everything there is corrosion everywhere. Even the battery cables were corroded all in the inside. I had to take the battery out and recharge it and there was water under it meaning there is a leak somewhere in that area. I really think i was sold a water logged car.
 

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...The fuel barely leaks out going into the HPFP, so today im going unhook it at both ends and blast air through it to see if there is any blockage. Then im gonna run the pump before i reconnect it to see how much fuel comes out...
So, you have the fuel inlet to the HPFP disconnected? "barely leaks out going into the HPFP" -> is this while the key is initially turned to On?

If not a line blockage, maybe the pump or "lifetime" filter inside the tank is messed up OR is gunk-ed up after that nasty fuel you had? I'm curious to find out if this filter can be easily replaced by us DIY'ers. Also curious to know if your filter element is visible, or sealed, or if you can you flow-test it?

You said you dropped the tank, but did you spend anytime with your eyeballs or hands inside the tank to inspect the pump module or the filter?

...I replaced the positive battery line because it was extremely corroded all through the wire. Too bad i brought from dealer as is.
...I really think i was sold a water logged car.
Sounds like a good guess. Bad news man. At a minimum, I would fill the ears of that dealerships' owner or manager. Also run a car VIN check with a CarFax type of service. If it was previously totaled by water, via an insurance company, you will gain some ammunition. You should exposed the front floor board inside the car, so slide some of the carpet out, up, to the side some... looking for signs of water damage. If me I would purchase some "electric contact cleaner" (in a spray can) and disconnect MANY different plugs and clean em' out.

Okay just for the hell of it unplug your fuel pressure sensor connector. On my Fiesta ST Forum a guy was having a lot of fuel delivery issues a lot of parts were replaced it was the fuel pressure sensor the whole time.
It (the system) worked while the sensor was disconnected? Or are you saying disconnect & re-connect the sensor and THEN it (the pump) worked? Either way, that type of tire-kick is always a good idea.
 

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On the EcoBoost Motors there was an issue with the low fuel pressure sensor artificially reading High fuel pressure that wasn't there, so fuel was not getting fed properly to the high pressure fuel pump. I know this isn't a EcoBoost motor but it does have direct injection and if that sensor gets gunked up with crap it's not reading fuel pressure right, and it may not supply the high pressure fuel pump. From what I understand the car will still run without this sensor connected.

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Discussion Starter #18
Nothing seems to be working. Figure my best bet is to take it to a shop and leave it there till I can afford to get it out. Thanks for all the help everyone. I really appreciate it.
 

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Nothing seems to be working. Figure my best bet is to take it to a shop and leave it there till I can afford to get it out...
But... you do have some big clues, so why give up now? As you kinda-sorta said, it seems like the pump or filter inside the tank is messed-up. It seems worth your time and $money$ to drop the tank again and/or verify the pump inside the tank is (or is not) running & pumping out fuel when the key is advanced to On.

With that inlet fuel line disconnected at the HPFP, you should verify-check for solid fuel flow right? It should flow kinda-like a horse goes pee. Or, unless, the system is designed in a unique way that prevents common sense troubleshooting.

Please review (maybe answer?) my questions from yesterday, -echoed below.

Whatever you choose to do, I wish you good luck.

So, you have the fuel inlet to the HPFP disconnected? "barely leaks out going into the HPFP" -> is this while the key is initially turned to On?

If not a line blockage, maybe the pump or "lifetime" filter inside the tank is messed up OR is gunk-ed up after that nasty fuel you had? I'm curious to find out if this filter can be easily replaced by us DIY'ers. Also curious to know if your filter element is visible, or sealed, or if you can you flow-test it?

You said you dropped the tank, but did you spend anytime with your eyeballs or hands inside the tank to inspect the pump module or the filter?...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Lol you convinced me to keep going. Really when i used the intank pump to run the fuel to a gas can it was not a very strong flow which leads me to believe the pump is going out, it just kinda like trickles out. I didnt see any blockage in it when I took it out and i also used an air pump to blow any blockage out of the line. There wasnt any. But when i turn the key to on it makes a sound and it also does when I try to crank it. Thats a sign of it going out right?
 
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