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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought a 2012 titanium focus although i read a lot of comments about the transmission i couldn’t pass up on this deal. I do notice when coming out of a stopped position at low rpms it seems to lose power momentarily and think it might need new injectors being it’s at 93k miles. Want to know what parts i could buy to make this thing last and if a manual swap would be worth it, if more reliable. Hoping it’s just injectors and not the trans
 

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You bought a car knowing it will have major problems, and now it has problems. Who'da thunk it...

Don't use gas from "no-name" stations or from Costco/Sams. It's cheap for a reason. Use gas from the national brands that include better/more detergents. Move to a higher grade of gas for a couple tanks too. You should've already seen that the best way to drive a DCT is to drive it like you stole it, so do that if you aren't already. Check your spark plugs and their gap if you're driving it harder and that doesn't fix the bogging. Ford's replacement interval is every 100k miles so they are getting close to that if they haven't been changed before. Use one of those fuel system/fuel injector cleaners with a full tank of gas for a few tanks and see if those help with the bogging. You might new new plugs, new coil packs, and/or new injectors.

You should've already know that a manual Focus will be infinitely more reliable than a DCT Focus. DCT Foci are cheap for a reason.
 

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You ‘couldn’t pass it up’?

There’s a reason the prices on these cars are generally cheap....

Now you’ll be putting more money into the car than it’s worth...


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First and foremost welcome to Focus Fanatics. We will help with all we can. I would suggest changing the oil, use Motorcraft filters, and put in a good oil additive like Z-max, my personal favorite. Second, install new spark plugs, Motorcraft originals gapped properly, nothing else. Install a K/N air filter in the factory air box and do not run a cold air system. The factory system brings in plenty of air and keeps out the engine heat. Have the coolant checked and if needs to be changed then have it changed. Check all of the engine grounds and clean them. This car and the transmission relies very heavily on it's grounds. Make sure battery corrosion is cleaned and gone from the battey and they power distribution panel that is in front of the battery box. Basic service is where to start. When it comes to the fuel system you only need to run 87 octane, anything higher is a waste of money unless you put a tune in the car and then you will need a higher octane. Find a dealer that sells BG products and run one can off BG44K in a full tank of gas. This stuff works, and after 30 years of using it I have never seen it fail. After that I run Z-max every 3rd tank full to keep things free and moving. I have been using Z-max for 45 years before they called it Z-max it was Av-blend. Hope this helps you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You ‘couldn’t pass it up’?

There’s a reason the prices on these cars are generally cheap....

Now you’ll be putting more money into the car than it’s worth...


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I only need it for 5 years max to get me from a to b. Thought it was a pretty sweet car and wanted to see what i could do to keep it steady. Thanks for the input though
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You ‘couldn’t pass it up’?

There’s a reason the prices on these cars are generally cheap....

Now you’ll be putting more money into the car than it’s worth...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Only need it to run smooth for a few more years going back an forth to college. I’d love to turn it into a sleeper project once i get what i need out of it
 

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My son and daughter each have a Focus SE hatchback (2015 and 2016, respectively), both with leather, so they've got the feel of a Titanium. :)

Son is on the 2nd or 3rd clutch (done before we bought it - I say "or 3rd" because I think the 2nd one had issues and was replaced pretty soon after it was installed. Since he's owned it, the TCM went wonky, and had to be replaced a little over a year ago. All Ford dealers near his college town were booked up for several weeks, so I rented a trailer and hauled it back to the big city to be fixed.

Daughter had to have her 2nd clutch installed within a year after we bought it.

They've both had their cars almost 4 years, now.

Both cars are above the 60k mile mark, and have been running well for the last year. They make a lot of short trips to campus, and the 4 hour drive home once a month or so. Only 1 more year of college to go, so hopefully they'll hold out.

You might give a little more description of the bogging. Remember that this transmission is just a computer-shifted manual. So a low-power take off is going to feel a lot like someone feathering the clutch while getting going in 1st gear. If you haven't driven a manual before, you may not know what that feels like? (no offense intended, not clear to me if you have manual experience, that's all.)

But it never hurts to "baseline" a new-to-you used car. For me, that generally means new fluids (oil, coolant, brake,) plugs, and filters. Personally, I wouldn't bother with a K&N air filter. More expensive, and lets in more dirt. This engine doesn't need more air than can easily pass through the stock filter.
 

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Only need it to run smooth for a few more years going back an forth to college. I’d love to turn it into a sleeper project once i get what i need out of it
Congrats on the new whip! I love my focus, Its only 2014 se standard though. I can only imagine what the TI has. Make sure your car has all the recall work performed that you approve of. Mine had several, none to do with the manual trans, that nearly broke the car down. Still have a dreaded battery light i ignore now too. Gives the car character.
I would always expect some trans malfuction, unless you "swap it" which im sure this forum can help with, but is way out of my league.
Those trans are plagued but I truly hope you get good milage out of it!
Ive seen manuals go for $2k here in MA, USA. So a donor is not out of the question.
this engine is a gdi, as such it gunks up the intake mani, after so much milage.
Injectors are now inside the cylinder head, expensive, and likely not an issue unless wiring or dirty gas.
i bought mine at 94k(now 165k) and the intake manifold was gunky but not too bad. I would clean any gdi intake after 100k after borescoping mine, and coco blasting it. (Waste of time, i think ill clean it with A solvent and brush next time..)
Apparently cheap gas makes this intake buildup worse. I miss injectors behind the intake 😢
intake blockage could cause low rpm power loss?
 

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But it never hurts to "baseline" a new-to-you used car. For me, that generally means new fluids (oil, coolant, brake,) plugs, and filters. Personally, I wouldn't bother with a K&N air filter. More expensive, and lets in more dirt. This engine doesn't need more air than can easily pass through the stock filter.
I agree 300%
 

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I see. Loss of power🤔. Run a can of b12 chemtool(it is like $3 a can) and ride it a little rough. I’ve found that if you ride the trans hard that it looks to not shudder, slip or shift weird. Lots of slow city driving accelerations can do that. Before adding the cab of b12 chemtool, do a foot to the floor acceleration and it should be rough but do it over the course of about 30 minutes and you’ll come to find that the transmission shifts a lot better with no shuddering. Many people think that riding these cars with slow accelerations will help it and it really makes it worse. My car is a 2012 model and I had to get the tcm replaced in 2014 because I was riding it slow. And now, in 2021, this tcm has lasted me 8 years and 100,000 miles. I think the tcm needs to relearn. But if it doesn’t fix your acceleration loss of power, run some b12 chemtool. And high heat can clean that carbon off decently! Hope this helps
 
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