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My AC seems to be improving. I am getting a squeak from the front end. I can't duplicate it by pushing on the front end but when I drive over bumpy roads it's there.
 

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took mine in, and they said the PCM reflash was the problem. They flashed it again, and said it now works. I think it's the same as before... going to wait for the temp to get warmer outside, to prove the air still isn't cold. They tested my AC when it was 57º outside... genius
 

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yeah, i'm certain the air needs to be colder than 71º
Vent temps were in the 50's...according to the tech. It was at most 60º outside at the time of the test.


Guess I'll have to wait until the end of the day, in the 80's+

Schedule for EOD, Friday.
 

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Duct temp in the 40s would be ideal.
Would be ideal, but not always realistic. A properly working A/C system is designed to drop temperatures about 30 degrees under ambient. That means if it's 100 outside, a 70 degree vent temp would still be working proper. If you can get 50-60 degree vent temps on a 100 degree day, you're way ahead of the game. Some cars can cool more than 30 under, some can't. It depends on the type of car, and how it's system functions.
 

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2012 Ford Focus SEL with the dual zone automatic climate control set to single zone at 62 F with varying fan settings and an ambient temperature of around 80 on Thursday afternoon/ evening led to vent temps somewhere in the mid-high 30s-50s depending on the distance from the vent using an ir thermometer, although it might be reading slightly low when pointed at the left of center register. It might have helped slightly to close the right center vent with only one occupant, but once it had reached peak cooling when not set to the minimum temperature setting of lo-lo it was seemingly pulling down the ambient temperature down by closer to 30-40 degrees in the core of the vent, and directly at the vent it felt very nearly ice cold. I guess that means I don't have an issue with it yet, apart from needing to remember to turn off the A/C in order to keep from allowing the possibility of a moldy/ musty smell.
I suppose ozium or lysol could help, but are really not the ideal solution, as I would prefer not to constantly resort to spraying chemicals into the ducts or the plenum.

Car finally passed the 1000 mile mark yesterday with 106x miles on it at the moment iirc.

Idk how much I trust the i.r. thermometer, as it claims to have a distance to spot of 1:1, but depending on if it was being directly hit with the cold air or measuring off the duct or vanes it was changing from around 33-50ish at the vent, but the higher temperatures were usually noted from the plastic vanes themselves iirc.

Probably best not to try to take real time measurements while driving without a fluke digital thermometer and thermocouple probes for greater accuracy as well as a passenger to monitor the data.
 

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Great info. If using probes and such, make sure they are tested accurate. A glass of ice water and a mug of boiling water out of the microwave will establish 0 and 100C accuracy. It should be linear between those points.

My craftsman digital voltmeter has a temp probe and it really sucks. The meritline doohickie blows it away for accuracy.
 

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Great info. If using probes and such, make sure they are tested accurate. A glass of ice water and a mug of boiling water out of the microwave will establish 0 and 100C accuracy. It should be linear between those points.

My craftsman digital voltmeter has a temp probe and it really sucks. The meritline doohickie blows it away for accuracy.
I have one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7875-PocketTherm-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B000FJR0SG/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

I'd bought it on an impulse in the grocery store 3-4 years ago to have an automotive i.r. thermometer for around $20 usd, but it may or may not be off 3-4 degrees F depending on the accuracy of the device, since its rated to read from -27º to 428º F or -33º to 220º C.

It seems reasonably accurate though given the fact that at its coldest the air coming from the vents does feel to be significantly cooler than the 50-60 degree vent temperatures others were reporting.
 

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suss, thanks for the very thorough reading of your car's A/C. much appreciated.

I've also noticed my external temperature reading in my car has been of by at least 8º (over) since my flash 12-5-5. Or are they always not accurate in general?
 

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suss, thanks for the very thorough reading of your car's A/C. much appreciated.

I've also noticed my external temperature reading in my car has been of by at least 8º (over) since my flash 12-5-5. Or are they always not accurate in general?
I don't know with absolute certainty, but the temperature probe on mine is on the passenger side mirror. It seems reasonably accurate, apart from there being a glitch in the software at certain temperatures under which the instrument panel display and the center stack are each 1 degree apart. I wonder if that has to be due to how its converting the temperature input from voltage into degrees Celsius to degrees Fahrenheit. Of course if its been sitting still for a while it can read a bit higher than expected due to the heat being reflected off of the pavement.
 

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Me, too!

I'm having problems with my AC as well. It started a couple weeks ago on a Sunday- when the dealership was closed. It went from blowing nice and cold to muggy and hot. This went on for about 45 minutes or so. It then worked perfect. I hoped it was just a fluke. Not so. It did it again this past Saturday. I promptly drove to the service department. They have had my car since. The temperature the day I brought it in was 94 degrees. Monday it was rainy and cooler and the AC worked fine. It was blowing out at 31 degrees. They ran the diagnostics and nothing came back as being wrong. They have no clue why this is occurring. The service advisor called today to let me know he finally got it to blow hot air while it was on max cold. He said they will be checking it again today. Keeping my fingers crossed hoping they find out what the problem is.
 

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Jealous yours will get into the 30's! It was 77 out and the internal duct temp was 44 degrees for me. So about 50 something outside the vent. Service Dept says that's within their specifications and to go screw myself. ha!
Hope it's something simple and you get yoru FoFo back asap.
 

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Just got the car back from the dealer. Said they couldn't duplicate any of my issues. Had a POS aveo for a loaner. AC in that little pile kicked ass. Stuck with a rattling door speaker and shitty AC. I'm off to the dub dealer.
 

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I kind of can't believe I am posting here today. I picked up a 2012 Focus Hatch Ti today to replace my wifes Mini. The car is great except the A/C is blowing hot air and it's 105F outside. We picked up the car at 5pm, did the dealer demo for ~40 min outside with the car running... took it home (20 min, highway), no A/C whatsoever. It's been in the garage 3 hours, still no A/C. Very, very deflating to have had to convince my wife to go with a Ford then have it act up on day one. If there was a grace period I'd give the thing back tomorrow.
 

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Picus, have the dealer double-check that the condensor is actually coming on. Mine didn't and they re-flashed. Now it indeed does. Unfortunately the air still isn't as cold as i'd like it to be. Heck, it's not even cold....Just cool. 95ºF here, and the car/cabin is about 77º with the A/C blasting. Dealership says the duct temp is within regs, and basically told me to sit on it.
 

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Thanks DaeHan - I will mention that when I go in today for a service appointment to check it out. I've put ~600km on the car, everything seems a-ok besides the a/c. Still blows hot no matter what temp. I'll update when I have more news.
 

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Update - dealer said there was a loose connection on the refrigerant line; was blowing cold air into the engine compartment. Replaced and fixed. AC is blowing 5.5c at the vent, which is something like ~42F... hoping it stays that way. Cheers.
 
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